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Skin issues on Neck due to collars, E-collar contact points

6.3K views 19 replies 18 participants last post by  christalwings  
#1 · (Edited)
Edit: I am not asking for training advice, or criticism about the use of training tools. I am asking for advice and experiences regarding skin health and hair regrowth, simply stating that the cause is correlated to collar friction/metal sensitivities. After fully reading this post, please only leave comments that are constructive and helpful.

We are dealing with a couple of different issues with Draco’s neck.

When we first introduced the use of a Dogtra e-collar with our trainer, we did not realize that he was sensitive/allergic to the contact points (the original ones contain nickel, chrome). It took about a month to figure this out, that it was not instead linked to his prong collar. He developed a series of scabs/irritated skin. We have since switched to titanium contact points which has helped new spots from getting irritated. We also do not have him wear it for prolonged periods of time, and switch the placement of the collar periodically.

However, he seems to have developed scar tissue in the places that those scabs developed. Very very little hair has grown back (with some pieces of hair growing in white).

Additionally, in the front of his neck, he doesn’t have any scars but rather quite thin hair from collar rubbing despite the fact that we do not leave any collars on him for prolonged period (he does not even wear a flat 24/7).

The vet was not very helpful, they offered to do a skin scrap but said that there were no signs of bacterial or fungal issues. We feed him a 1/2 raw 1/2 Farmina kibble/freeze dried raw diet, and I have started to incorporate some additional supplements like colostrum and manuka honey.

Has anyone ever dealt with issues like this? How did you approach healing these spots? is there any hope that the hair will ever grow back over those spots?

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#3 · (Edited)
I would not use the e-collar at all. It is a good proofing tool, once the dog actually knows the command you are trying to reinforce, so you can make sure he will listen to your command at all times. But it is an optional tool.

Most prong collars also contain chrome and nickel. According to the manufacturer, Curagon prong collars are nickel-free. The Starmark Pro-Training collar (similar to prong collar) is plastic and might be an option. But I have never used one, so I don't know how well it works.

But neither the e-collar nor a prong collar are meant to be worn except during those periods when you are actively training. You may be able to train without one--none of my dogs has worn either collar and they have been quite manageable on leash.

How long has he had the bare spots? Regrowth of hair can be seasonal--if he has not had the spots for long, it may just be that he has not gone through a new hair growth cycle yet. Vitamin E will sometimes help with hair regrowth, but it can take months before you see a result.

You might also check your dog for thyroid problems (hypothyroid is common in dobermans.) That can sometimes affect hair regrowth. It is unlikely that is the problem--you know where the bare spots came from--but if his hair is thinning all over, any scarred spots will be more obvious.
 
#5 ·
What are you using it for? Can a trainer help in some instance if he’s wearing it a lot? Like more than a back up to recall out in the woods for forty five minutes total or something (I tried this with my dog but she’s too neurotic for it; responds to a whistle as backup). Anouk got scratched by the cat at probably six months old. Took nearly a year or more for that scar to become invisible. But it’s impossible to say. Depending on the scar, some are permanent no different than humans and hair won’t come through it. I have an eyebrow like this, so it’s half fake drawn in!
 
#6 ·
1) E-collars are not a tool that needs to be “faded out.” If you think that, you are possible viewing it more as a punishment tool rather than a communication tool. Completely understandable to comment about not using it 24/7 but in the original posts it’s clearly stated that it’s not on all the time and the collars are swapped out.
2) It could be an allergy or just skin sensitivity that seems to be common with Dobermans. A ton of dogs have similar issues but because they have longer or thicker fur it isn’t as noticeable.
3) if you feel comfortable with the training methods you’ve been using then stick with it, comments regarding your training methodology over one singular post seems absurd. Just be cautious of swapping out the collars and giving the skin a “break” when you can.
The colostrum and manuka seem like clean quality ingredients to be adding. It may be slight scars from an allergy that the fur won’t grow back, keep an eye on it and try some natural remedies and no collars on when you aren’t actively training or working him.
 
#8 · (Edited)
1) E-collars are not a tool that needs to be “faded out.” If you think that, you are possible viewing it more as a punishment tool rather than a communication tool. Completely understandable to comment about not using it 24/7 but in the original posts it’s clearly stated that it’s not on all the time and the collars are swapped out.
2) It could be an allergy or just skin sensitivity that seems to be common with Dobermans. A ton of dogs have similar issues but because they have longer or thicker fur it isn’t as noticeable.
3) if you feel comfortable with the training methods you’ve been using then stick with it, comments regarding your training methodology over one singular post seems absurd. Just be cautious of swapping out the collars and giving the skin a “break” when you can.
The colostrum and manuka seem like clean quality ingredients to be adding. It may be slight scars from an allergy that the fur won’t grow back, keep an eye on it and try some natural remedies and no collars on when you aren’t actively training or working him.
Many people here use e-collars. Some fade the use with maturity as the dog becomes reliable with known communication needs of the e-collar, and some do not fade them. Most everyone here is pro balanced training. A lot of us use prongs, slip leads, and other tools people would refer to as "aversive." Even though some of the same people that call prongs aversive are sometimes fine with head-halti's. Positive only trainers seem not to realize only the dog decides what is aversive, and I have seen dogs far more shut down in a head-halti than I have in a correctly used prong.

When someone new joins users here have no idea the amount of use of a tool or amount of knowledge the poster has, so they mention whatever may be relevant. If you spent some time poking around before making assumptions based off this one singular post (as you commented people here did) you would know no one is bashing their method of training.
 
#7 ·
Hair regrowth is slow--this is the wrong time of year to get fast regrowth. Spring when winter coat (and yes, even Dobermans have winter coats) is being shed and in the fall when the summer coat is being changed for the winter coat. You'll see very slow regrowth before fall but it just takes time to regrow hair on scratches, rub spots and bare areas.

Nickle allergies are common--I've always had to coat the back of the top button on Levi's with clear nail polish because they are a nickle alloy and I'm allergic to nickle but sounds like you solved that part of the problem.

Basically though, none of my dogs have ever worn any kind of training collar except when actually being trained. The rest of the time they wear nothing. My puppies wear a soft round fabric slip collar for the first few months I have them and as soon as they have a clue about coming when called that collar comes off. Or it may stay on as the basic training collar. But my dogs don't wear collars all the time.

dobebug
 
#9 ·
I agree with Bug that hair regrowth can be super slow, and of course on a Doberman you can really easily see hair loss.

All of mine have had one kind of scrape or another over the years, with various degrees of severity, usually from running in the woods and scraping themselves open on a branch or something. They've occasionally needed to be stitched up. Both Leon and Sypha have had pretty nasty scrapes, and Leon gave himself one last summer that essentially rubbed off the upper layer of skin - almost like a "rug burn" - there was nothing to stitch closed, so it was just a raw area of skin for a while. It took forever for the hair to grow back - I could see a small bald patch there for almost a year, really.

When we do have an area that is healed up, but no hair yet, I like to use this: Zephyr's Garden Canine Skin Rescue Salve
 
#10 ·
I know I only asked the question. And what purpose. I’ve seen them over used. Like zap for every bark. Doesn’t mean I have any clue how the OP is using it but there isn’t enough information to guess is this is overuse or allergy. Sure not 24/7 but there are very many hours between 0 and 24.
 
#11 ·
I would not use the e-collar at all. It is a good proofing tool, once the dog actually knows the command you are trying to reinforce, so you can make sure he will listen to your command at all times. But it is an optional tool.
1) E-collars are not a tool that needs to be “faded out.” If you think that, you are possible viewing it more as a punishment tool rather than a communication tool.
Perhaps I should make it clear that when I said I wouldn't use the e-collar, I meant that I wouldn't use it in this particular case, where the dog's skin seems to be reacting to it. It has its uses, but if it is irritating the dog's skin (even if you are using it properly) it is not worth the benefit you may get, IMO.
 
#12 ·
As requested, only replying regarding the skin/fur loss issue. Refer to the other responders answers regarding Doberman specific coat regrowth timeframe as mine is not a Doberman. I can only provide my personal experience with allergies and coat issues. We tried Colostrum and Manual honey, expensive, clean brands too. It did absolutely zero. Also tried human grade fish oil(several different brands), dog grade omega 3 supplements, vitamin E, special leave in conditioners, shampoo, special skin ampules. None of those work, they are good for maintaining/slightly improving , not fixing.

Only way we found was through food, you have to build up the coat from within by feeding QUALITY protein and FATS. it takes a bit of time(couple months or a bit longer), but once you get to the shiny, radians coat it is a lot more forgiving in terms or allergies, sensitivities and just everyday scratching and damage. Most Farmina formulas as very good but they will be a bit lower on the fatty scale. We do use Farmina as a backup. However primarily I am feeding Inukshuk Marine 25, mine needs the high fat content for his coat maintenance. You don’t have to use that one, just find a formula that makes his coat shine. We also supplement with raw organs - local steer owners are happy to share if you ask ahead of time. Can always find some sardines or other fatty canned fish(no oil or salt preferably but not the end of the world)

a soft boar bristle brush will help spread the natural oils on the fur. And the dogs love the feel of it.
 
#13 ·
I don't think anyone has suggested that you take him to a vet dermatologist, so I am going to suggest that. I also have a Dogtra and like it. It was suggested to me to get the comfort pad contact points, and those are titanium. Maybe those will be a little gentler on his neck than the longer contact points.
 
#14 ·
Arrows e collar came with special plastic coated tips instead of bare metal. And she only wears it for short sessions 90% of the time, unless we are in and out of the yard all day then she wears it the whole time since I am solidifying her recall. It's going to have to stay off until those heal up though or they never will especially if it is an allergy.
 
#15 ·
I have a small mixed breed dog that’s mostly chihuahua. She loses hair like this wearing her flat collar. Dog fur in general takes forever to grow back.

My Doberman had two lick granulomas that developed right after New Year’s Day this year. The skin healed fast but I don’t think the fur grew back until about May.

I would just be patient. Don’t overwhelm his skin with a lot of topicals. Some things like creams and stuff can actually damage the hair follicle by blocking it up and impeding hair regrowth.

If my dog were doing that I would make sure I didn’t let any metal have prolonged contact with his skin and get a fur saver collar for ID.

Could you get some contacts for the ecollar that have a coating? Or even coat it with something yourself? I’m not sure what would be best. I coat cheap jewelry (rings, bracelets, pendants) I want to wear in clear paint where it touches my skin before I wear it. You could try that. Just use the ecollar on yourself before you try it on the dog to make sure the stim is still working fine.
 
#16 ·
I have the same problems with my boy, he has developed the same spots over the years, some do heal but very slowly and then the hair goes white, not all areas will regrow, its very sensitive there near the throat.

Some of the spots are due to food allergies, some are due to environmental, some are just because he has sensitive skin and the ecollar does irritate him. I have the titanium nodes and I see no difference, I wipe it down after every use to keep it clean.

Have you tried a hair allergy test? We did one from amazon, and it was surprisingly accurate. I did the vet scrape and spent thousands for no real information. The reason I suggest this is because we learned a whole bunch of minor allergies and sensitivities he had that we did not know about. Since watching the allergies the spots have not come up as often. The healing will take time, I would say 6 months at a minimum, they wont all grow back. Keep the collars off for a couple days or keep the node away from that area, switch it to the back of his neck or the sides, or away from the area as much as possible, keep the training sessions short and get creative with using different tools just to give his skin a break a heal.

I heard melatonin helps skin regrowth, so try that, otherwise, we stick to sliver spray, it does take time and need to be reapplied but helps with the sensitivities.

Good luck!
 
#18 ·
I hope things have improved for you and your boy. I haven’t used prong collars on my dobes. I did have a “pretty” choke collar on the first one. It was required for the class I took. Small, but thick links. Unfortunately it wore against itself and caused some nasty spots on her neck. I switched to much bigger “softer” links. It was a good choice. Of course after she developed Wobbler’s I stopped putting choke collars on any of my dogs.
I also had a similar problem with the same dobe due to her flat collar made of webbing. Webbing can grab individual hairs and pull them out, thinning the neck hair on a dobe. Since I grew up with a leather collar on our dog, I decided to try that. I have never looked back. I buy the least expensive one from Gundog Supply. It needs conditioning when you get it, but they rivet a four line brass ID tag on it for free. And no jinglies when on the dog.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Good tip!
FWIW The "always on when outside" collar on Bonnie holds combined name and required rabies tag (Docupet partners with local Animal Control, and their website can store microchip info if you include it.) with an integrated handle.

This the one?

On Amazon I found a decent 2" wide nylon backed by padding collar with the metal locking clips favored by LEO dogs, with integrated grab handle. See Tactipup for the design.

The max size at Tactipup with Fi integrated was 1.5", and it got pretty filthy what with Bonnie rolling in the dirt at dogpark wrestling a French Mastiff, her BFF big sis...or the bump-n-run and snappy snap dog-fu martial arts with the pittie pups, mals, and GSDs that could handle dobe play...;)
...and when it was clear the Fi just wasnt worth the $$$ for subscription due to the hilly country here/poor cellular, I changed out to something cheaper on Amazon.

Cant find a link and no matter since it was a cheap knockoff and imperfect design copy of Tactipup style where in this case some of the padding ended up partly on the outside, so I just cut off excess are re-routed the nylon thru collar so it would put padding not nylon on neck all around for least rub.
The point being that like you, we found it worth the effort to try something on that held up to outdoor use, with least rubbing on sensitive skin. And its been holding up a year plus salt, rain, dirt including retrieving the kong on a rope in the surf, digging up gophers and crashing thru bushes off lead in our little trail adventures...🤣

The rough edge of a tactical nylon rig works fine on GSDs but since dibe skin and fur is a bit more fragile and all the various skin bumps, bites, scrapes of an active young knucklehead are easily compromised by staph in juvenile stage when some dobes immunity system is still maturing, it helps to experiment to find strong but supple. No surprise the gun dog world has good time tested stuff.

So a nice well made leather collar is next.

Bookmarked, Saved.
 
#20 ·
My dog who is a Doberman has these too and they are pretty bad. I've taken him to the vet and different vets many if times they are no help. I asked if I should shave the hair in that area, they said the follicles in that area could be dead and it's scar tissue and shavings it may not help. Hes been bathed with prescription shampoos. This hair issue from ecollars is called necrosis or something of that nature. I've had my dog since he was 2 months hes not 2 1/2 years old and hes worn an ecollar since 6 months. It does help to rotate it or take it off, but I kind see them as permanent now. But still thinking of shaving the hair off and not have him wear it for awhile. However I see the ecollar as a need permanent tool. He listens well, but as he grows older there are changes in his demeanor like his intense laser focus on a taunting squirrel or him wanting to longe at the approach of new people which he started about 2 weeks ago. He also is off leash alot and mostly vibrate is used. The contact point are what causes the issues and them staying in one area for too long. My dogs neck hair also has always been alot thinner in that area. If you found a solution please post an update.