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Doberman Slave
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here are the supplies I have on hand for whelping. No particular order. Hopefully, others can add more...

Good sturdy whelping box or childs pool. If wooden box, should be painted for easy cleaning.
Padding for whelping box. Costco dog blankets are excellent for this and easy to wash. The fake sheepskin pads are cheap and easily washed too, but don't provide much padding.
Newspapers (sorted – no ads) - never leave puppies on only flat newspaper or a slick surface. They need traction to crawl and learn to walk. I buy clean newsprint from the paper store to line my whelping box and puppy pen when they are older. It comes cut in sheets and is ink free and easy to put down - no unfolding the newspaper. :)
Towels (3+ dozen)
Tarp or linoleum for under whelping pool / box. I also use a large sheet of linoleum under my puppy pen when they are older to protect floors.
Hold box / container for newborn puppies
heating pad
thermometer - anal
thermometer for room/whelping box temperature
Pen to record whelping info
Scissors
Dental floss to tie off umbilical cord
Pedialyte popsicles
Disposable latex gloves
Hand wipes
Cordless phone
Clock
Water Bowl
Flashlight and fresh batteries
Leash and collar
Comfortable chair
Good book (preferably on whelping!)
Emergency phone number list
Whelping drugs - these come from my repro vet and are sent home 1 week prior to whelping at x-ray time. The kit includes instructions but none of these drugs should ever be given without speaking to your vet first! My repro vet is open to and used to taking calls at all hours, but some may not. the kit includes (in pre-measured syringes)...
Calcium (for bitches who stop pushing or are too/weak tired)
Oxytocin (should NEVER be given unless it is confirmed a puppy is not stuck. Mainly used as a "clean out" shot and to stimulate milk production)
Dopamine (used to revive puppies that are having a hard time)

Scale - newborn pups should be weighed at birth and every 12 hours at least for the first several days.

Fabric paint or ribbon, rick-rack, etc. to identify puppies. You can also use the colors to indicate birth order if you choose to keep track of that.

Tube feeding syringe, tube, and nursing bottle as well as a good goats milk formula just in case you have to feed a puppy. We use pure goats milk that is kept frozen and can easily be thawed if needed.

Heat lamp - puppies must be kept warm! They cannot control their body temperature. Be sure to check the temperature in the bottom of the whelping box where the puppies are and allow space for Mom/puppies to get away from the heat source. I keep mine up high above the whelping box.
 

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I had my first litter in 1976 and I have never tied off my first umbilical cord. How do you suppose a bitch in the wild would tie it off? If there is a concern, I would clamp it off with a pair of hemostats, but I would not worry about tieing it off. Just my opinion.

I do want to make a huge CAUTION on the use of injectable CALCIUM. I assume your vet will make sure you know what you are doing or not give it to you at all. If you give it too quickly you can cause heart issues on the bitch and in the worst case kill her. I have gotten to where I keep the Calcium gel (Calsorb) available. It is much safer for the non-veterinarian than injectable calcium.
 

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Most of the above and:

A couple of good friends to help!

Camera

fading puppy mix from Natures Farmacy

ky jelly

I use Natures Farmacy puppy bac for milk replacer: also great to mix up some for bitch during whelping to help her stay hydrated with enough calcium.

Fresh liver also for bitch

Forms for keeping track of puppies born, and on-going weight through 8 weeks of age.

several crate pads - I like the kind with the bumper around the edge as it keeps puppies from rolling off.

the costco dog blankets would be great to use, but I have cut to shape whelping box liners (3 of them since one is always in the wash) they are water proof and don't slip around - felt on top so comfy.

I'm sure I'm forgetting something....

added: inflatable mattress for me - easy to store during the day and just throw it on the floor at night.
 

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Doberman Slave
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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I always sleep on a sleeping bag on the floor as our whelping room is our den and quite small, but I would kill for an inflatable mattress! LoL! I think I will buy one!
I have never tied off an umbilical cord either, my bitches really do all of the work and I let them eat all of the placentas too. I have torn a few sacs from the face if the bitch doesn't do that end first but I don't take the puppy and dry it or weigh it until the bitch has had her share of what she feels she needs to do. But, I keep the dental floss on hand just in case, as you never know.

One thing I noticed about this recently here at CCI, is that many of the breeder girls here have basically lost all of their instincts when it comes to whelping. They are studying this now. But, the bitches here won't tear open a sac or chew an umbilical cord, and they are never allowd to eat placentas. The thought is that because the breeder caretakers have been instructed to do everything for the bitch for years, that the bitches have lost all natural instincts. They grab the pup as soon as it is coming out and the bitch doesn't get it until it is dried and ready to nurse. I don't know, I just find that interesting.

With the calcium, I will add that my repro vet suggests giving some vanialla ice cream first and if that doesn't work, then we give the injection. I even add the ice cream to her food for a couple of days prior to whelping. I try to use as little drugs as possible. I think people are way to quick, especially with the oxytocin and I have seen puppies killed by this.
 

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Almost all of the above plus
Betadine
small tubes of frosting in different colours - good for a quick boost for a fading puppy and to see if "blue frosting puppy" is pooping :)
Rescue Remedy
bulb syringe
vanilla ice cream (for mom)(ok and me LOL)
crockpot and lots of chicken for the mom. Usually just the broth at first but the others appreciate the chicken :)

Pedialyte in a bottle

I also make sure I have the ingredients to make a puppy formula in case it's needed.

I have never tied off an umbilical cord either.
 

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Doberman Slave
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I am already getting lots of good ideas here! I am SO buying an inflatable mattress!

What does the rescue remedy do?
 
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What all supplements do you guys have on hand? Like the Puppy-Bac, Fading Puppy, etc?

What is the best type of goat's milk to buy?
 

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We just use fresh goat's milk. It works better than any formula. Our local Wal Mart grocery stores carry it in the quart carton.

Also, the Calsorb is a lot more effective than any amount of ice cream. Ice Cream is loaded with all kinds of other things that you probably don't to give the bitch in the kind of quantities that would be effective to stimulate the strength of contractions that you are wanting. She would surely have serious diarrhea before you could give her enough to make any difference.

Also, I have read that actually giving calcium supplements before whelping is very counterproductive. Your calcium supplementation inhibits the bodies own natural production so that when she is whelping and needs it the natural supply is shut down because your have been giving the supplements.
 

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Ok, i will keep the ice cream for me :) and buy some calsorb. I would rather use that, i'm not fond of giving needles of any kind as it is.

I keep rescue remedy on hand as I was told a drop on the tongue is a good boost for a fading puppy. I have never tried it, although I have used the icing. The icing - just a drop on the tongue of the puppy - helped "spark" the puppy and then they could eat.

One thing I was told by a very very knowledgeable breeder was never feed a puppy that isn't suckling.

Sorry I'm just jumping in here, I'm at work LOL.....
 

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Leo, Lily, and Simon
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Would this thread make a good sticky? It has some really good advise, even for us non-breeders.
 
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Get the bunnies!
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From my experience helping a breeder friend... get twice as much newspaper as you think you will need, then double that LOL. Also, loaads of bedding, and be prepared for daily washing/drying/sorting of bedding...
 

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I do want to make a huge CAUTION on the use of injectable CALCIUM. I assume your vet will make sure you know what you are doing or not give it to you at all. If you give it too quickly you can cause heart issues on the bitch and in the worst case kill her. I have gotten to where I keep the Calcium gel (Calsorb) available. It is much safer for the non-veterinarian than injectable calcium.

This cannot be stressed enough. Very huge caution where this is concerned.
 

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Also, I have read that actually giving calcium supplements before whelping is very counterproductive. Your calcium supplementation inhibits the bodies own natural production so that when she is whelping and needs it the natural supply is shut down because your have been giving the supplements.
This is another very important point. Never supplement a pregnant bitch with calcium. During and after whelping is fine but never before.
 
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This is another very important point. Never supplement a pregnant bitch with calcium. During and after whelping is fine but never before.
I was told never to supplement with calcium at all and the only time I have it on hand is for whelping. There are specific ratios that need to be adhered to.

My understanding from my vet was the calcium shot was for when (if) she looks like she's tired, not moving ahead in her labour.

I can say after reading this, i will be getting calsorb and that's it.....
 

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Oxytocin stimulates or brings on the contractions. Calcium gives more strength to the muscles for harder contractions. At least that is the way I understand it.
 

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I was told never to supplement with calcium at all and the only time I have it on hand is for whelping. There are specific ratios that need to be adhered to.

My understanding from my vet was the calcium shot was for when (if) she looks like she's tired, not moving ahead in her labour.

I can say after reading this, i will be getting calsorb and that's it.....
Good idea about the Calsorb. I've supplemented bitches with calcium with large litters, of course in moderation, and I used bone meal. I don't do it as a general rule. Calcium does help a nervous bitch, many breeders use tums and have had good results with it.
 

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I forgot Fenugeek. For milk production in the bitch.
Also, I have never used these but red raspberry leaves - any thoughts? I have had good and bad on their use.
 
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