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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just had my pup's stitches taken out the other day. I have had several dogs with cropped ears and have posted them, so I am familiar with the process. I am using 1/2" backer rod, Kendal Curity tape and vetwrap. I am having considerable problems with the bases of the posts coming out because he is shaking his head. I clean his ears with alcohol and there is no infection. I first tape the post and then back-wrap it with Curity tape.

I pull his ear and make sure I insert the post down in the ear and it is taunt. I then use vet wrap, starting about 1/4" above the "v" at the base, leaving part of the sticky back wrapped tape exposed and the wrap up and inwards. I then use about a 5" piece of Curity tape at the "v". That tape covers the vetwrap at the base and the 1/4" of sticky tape I left at the bottom of the post at the "v". Within hours he has shaken his head enough so the bottom of the post pops out. Then I have to start all over. I have tried tapering and not tapering the base of the post, back-taping and not taping the base, using tissue and not using tissue at the base.

I have read and read different threads about posting and seem to be doing everything correctly. I remember having this SAME issue with my other pup a few years ago. With her I tried tampons and molefoam with little luck. Suggestions? Can I use skin bond at the base somehow to better secure the post or the "v" of the ear? I saw some very sticky, stretchy, beige adhesive bandage at the feed store. Maybe I can use that to be close the "v" base?

Also, is there something I can do to reduce his head shaking. He just doesn't seem to like the weight of the posts or the discomfort or the posts themselves. Thanks in advance!
 

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I had the same issues with my boy. He would always get the posts out no matter how well I taped them. The ONLY thing that worked was using skin adhesive on the posts to literally glue them into the ear. It is messy but it was all that worked for us. I had to order it from a medical supply store and also make sure you get the remover otherwise it could be really painful to change the posts.
 

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The old saying that a picture's worth a thousand words holds true here.... Put up a pic, and youd be a lot more likely to get some constructive criticism or advice... are you putting any type of "bridge" between the ears??
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
I know, a pic would be helpful, but the pics I took didn't show much. No, I haven't been putting a bridge, with my previous pup it seemed that it helped pull the posts out, even though I didn't make it very tight.

I'm thinking maybe I didn't get the post in firm enough, although I was sure I did. This time I tapered the end of the post a bit, pulled the lower ear open more, pushed the post base in, pulled the ear up, taped the tip first instead of the bottom and then I wrapped. It seems like it might be staying. Thanks, yes, Skin Bond if I have too.

Also, I inspected his ears very carefully with a Maglite when I took the posts out. On the inside, lower ear there is a natural "nub" and the post rides on it and seems to have made it a little bit raw. That seems to be why he's shaking his head.

I've been told cosmetic squares, cotton or gauze at the bottom of the post and the Vet said no "padding". What do you suggest? Is there something I can put inside the base of the ear that will help with the chaffing and make him more comfortable? Neosporin? Neo Predif powder? Thank you!!
 

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DeltaDave, I've been in your situation too. I finally realized what I have been doing wrong. Try cutting the tape into smaller strips than 5 inches, about 8 to 10 of them before wrapping ears. For some reason it just seems to hold the posts better to the ears instead of longer strips. You might also try using the foam caulking that you can get from the hardware store. Also, try twisting the foam post into the ear before attaching the ear to the post. I would definitely make a brace with the foam between the 2 ears. Make longer strips than the brace and tape both sides, then make smaller strips to go around the brace to make it stronger. (Don't be stingy with the tape!)

Please do NOT put some sort of GLUE in your puppie's ears. OUCH!!! I would personally forget the vet wrap also.

But do everything else the same like the back wrapping the post, etc.
 

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I dont know how old your pup is, but I was using 3/8 backer rod at 9 1/2 weeks. I put a single wrap of tape on the tapered end, a light dusting of BFI powder inside of ear and on outside(fur side) of ears. I also used skin bond. The post should not be resting on the nub, but should fit farther down into the ear past the nub. It sounds like you got it right the last time, by holding tension and tapinp ear tip first. That is what my breeder said to do. After I ran out of 3/8 in backer rod, I moved up to 1/2 inch, then 3/4. Forget the vet wrap and dont use any stretchy tape or wrap as these tend to continue to tighten and can cut off circulation killing parts of the ear. I also suggest you use half vinegar half water to clean the ears. Vinegar makes the ear surface inhospitable to yeast and bacteria and does not destroy cells slowing any healing of sores and raw places. Go to a feed store, horse supply place and get Horsemans Dream for those places. It also makes a good handcream. Good stuff!Hope that covers it.
 

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Ditto on getting rid of the vet wrap.

One thing I do to the end of the backer rod is leave 1/4" not taped. It makes a little cushion instead of the hard edge of the tape.

Now the tape which I got at Wal-Mart. I prepare and backtape the post with J & J first Aid heavy duty cloth tape. It is very sticky. I attach this sticky post to the ear with J & J Coach Sport Tape. This tape is breathable and less likely to leave sore spots. It also doesn't pull out hair.
 

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Ditto on getting rid of the vet wrap.

One thing I do to the end of the backer rod is leave 1/4" not taped. It makes a little cushion instead of the hard edge of the tape.

Now the tape which I got at Wal-Mart. I prepare and backtape the post with J & J first Aid heavy duty cloth tape. It is very sticky. I attach this sticky post to the ear with J & J Coach Sport Tape. This tape is breathable and less likely to leave sore spots. It also doesn't pull out hair.
I'll be the third to say get rid of the vet wrap and don't even think about using the stretchy and very sticky tape you saw--neither are really suitable for ear posting.

I don't like the Curity tape. I've used it a few times when that was what an owner who I was helping with ears bought it instead of the Johnson & Johnson tapes (either the J & J Coach Athletic tape or J & J Zonas tape)--which are breathable and low tack.

I've found that except for very young puppies (those cropped at 7 weeks so they are being posted at 9 weeks or so) I prefer to use pipe insulation rather than backer rod. I use 3/8" (pipe insulation is measured by the outside dimension of the pipe it is supposed to go around) or 1/2" and split it into quarters. I round the base and taper both the top and bottom. Tape and back tape the post and insert well down into the ear. For the record I do use a pad of cotton at the base--you just need to make sure that you remove it when you remove the posts to clean the ear and repost.

And PLEASE, PLEASE don't use alcohol to clean the ear--it will burn in any open skin area--rub spots, scabs. I use water with a little Dawn detergent in it and then reclean with plain water and let the ear dry thoroughly. I also use a medicated powder (BFI or Gold Bond) to powder (lightly) both the inside and outside of the ear before I start to post. I also don't bother to clean all of the tape residue off the ears until the posting is complete.

I've always posted from the ear base to the tip but I know other people who post from tip to base--either one seems to work. But I do, with the crops that have well cleaned out bases so that the ear base (the v at the bottom) is pretty open, find that if you start the tape on the visible part of the post at the very bottom, angled well upward and wrap it around the ear and angle it down to meet the start point AND pull the back of the ear forward to close that v somewhat the posts won't pop out. Each succeeding piece of tape starts a little higher so that it looks like a herringbone pattern--that should hold everything at the bottom in place--and you absolutely DO NOT want to use vet wrap for taping like this. After about three wraps at the base in the herringbone you can go on to tape the rest of the ear in the ordinary manner.

I use a brace for the first two or three postings but after that I don't brace them.

The fact that the puppy continues to shake his head after a minute or two suggests that the taping is loose enough to allow the posts to slide around--and to eventually pop out but you get a lot of rub spots with the head shaking which just provide more irritation.

I have occasionally used Skin Bond in the ear on really open based crops but for the most part you shouldn't need to do that.

Good luck...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for all the great advice everyone and all the details from Dobebug! The posts are staying in better since I went down to 3/8 backer rod (with a zip tie for support), but I'm only getting 12 hours before they pop out. I have been careful to make sure the tape is secured low on the "V" and sticks to the back-tape and I try to pull the bell closed as I put on the tape. However, it seems the tape moves up around the base of his ears after some time and his ears get sweaty on the inside. Then when he shakes his head they pop out. Is there a way to better secure the bottom? Has anyone used that sticky, beige stretchy adhesive bandage for horses? I'm using Kendall Curity Porous tape, many recommend Zonas, but I've heard it is even less tacky. Suggestions?
 

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Are you cleaning the inside of the ear really well so it is not greasy? I give it a swipe with alcohol to cut any oil and make posts stick better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Yes, I have been cleaning them carefully with alcohol and peroxide. Ok, after posting this morning, I placed a small amount of superglue on each end of the tape that sticks to the post at the "V" at the base of the ear. (Yes, I'm careful not to get any on his ears). This seems to keep the lowest wrap of tape more secure. He's not shaking his head as much and the tape doesn't seem to be creeping up as much. What about using Skinbond? Other suggestions?
 
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