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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Might pick one up, just for show, but I was wondering whether a 2.5 mm thickness or 3 mm thickness was better...which is preferable and why?
 

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u mad?
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If it's just for show, does it matter?

Frankly, I'm not a fan of "choke" collars. I've read too much about damage to the trachea and about the collar getting "stuck" in a way and not releasing/loosening up. That being said, plenty of people use them without issue.
 

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sadder but wiser girl
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Are you talking about a show lead when you say "just for show", or a chain collar "just for show" as in looks? Personally, I don't like fine chains or narrow collars on large dogs, because with their weight and power, it's easier for them to be injured by a smaller chain or rope. With our chain collars, which I've used for obedience work for about 50 years, I use fairly large, bulky links so that any corrections, or if the dog pulls, it will not hurt them. The "choke" component should not choke the dog - it's just the sound and the brief pressure to get their attention back to focusing on work, but never to be punitive or cruel. I know when Annie was in a few shows, her handler liked a narrow collar, so it would essentially disappear, and minimize any interruption in the flow of her lines. But most of her dogs have coats, and you don't see the collars at all on Borzois, Bouviers, and long-haired Doxies...
 

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If it's just for show, does it matter?

Frankly, I'm not a fan of "choke" collars. I've read too much about damage to the trachea and about the collar getting "stuck" in a way and not releasing/loosening up. That being said, plenty of people use them without issue.
Well, if your dog is getting hurt, something is being done wrong. Used properly, most of these other types of collars are safer than a flat buckle. I've never seen one get "stuck", unless it was put on upside down.

But I agree, if it's for show, doesn't matter, and if it's just for looks, but not for a dog show, I would get one of the much bigger ones.
 

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I train with a choke collar, my puppy has one on, from 8 weeks old.

I only use the thinnest one I can buy:
I don't need it to hold a run-away-train or keep a very strong dog secured to its dog house life.
(that is not the purpose...Re. training with one)

Maybe a thin chain one will release better (than a thick example)...and I am not pulling a dog on its back, either.
- thinner ones can be jogged with lighter physical correction force, to just make the useful training tool noise
- used correctly, I am interested in generating the clicking sound, from the collar & chain rattle
- to communicate to my dog, my clear expectations (between right & wrong)...in a soft correction signal
I call it "CHOKE / clicker collar training, without the treat bait bribery & little plastic push button box".
To my way of thinking...bigger is NOT better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Well, if your dog is getting hurt, something is being done wrong. Used properly, most of these other types of collars are safer than a flat buckle. I've never seen one get "stuck", unless it was put on upside down.

But I agree, if it's for show, doesn't matter, and if it's just for looks, but not for a dog show, I would get one of the much bigger ones.
"Just for show" as in, I don't really need it for corrections, he's great on lead, stays by my side quite nicely. I just like how they look and so he will wear sometimes (not to be left on all the time, of course).

Jack is a pretty slender Dobe thus far...so I leaned toward the slightly slimmer of the two but then I wondered what the difference was...
tried asking one of the ladies at Pet Smart but I just got a lecture about using a choke collar instead.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I would select one from Herm Sprenger, due to their quality. If he's good on walks with no yanking/pulling, I'd try the 2.5mm

Herm Sprenger 2.5mm Medium Chrome Twisted Choke Chain
Okay, thanks. That's what I'll do. Could you, or somebody, explain to me though how/why a 3.0 mm chain would have been better suited to a dog who isn't good on walks? Is it just that added thickness across the throat that is little harder to ignore?
 

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If a dog is pulling or if a sharp correction is given, the thinner collar has less surface area over which to distribute the pressure. Thinner collars are therefore harsher to wear if there is much pressure on them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^Can't say that I do like the look of those fursavers, but I'm hoping the chain collar allows the hair to grow back some.
 

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If a dog is pulling or if a sharp correction is given, the thinner collar has less surface area over which to distribute the pressure. Thinner collars are therefore harsher to wear if there is much pressure on them.
****************
My talking point in bold:

Thinnest / German quality choke chain, is the only one I train with:
- no treat training / e-collars / harness / muzzle / necessary here

The smallest diameter link, is the harsher YES (that is why, I use it in much control).
- only if one trains, near or over the limited force / to get the message across / does it become negative and a training problem

Thin one used correctly...is better than clicker training / without the treat & cumbersome plastic box.
- manage your training tools, way beyond their break strength or intended purpose...and the dog simply gets trained on the "sound" which is created...to identify, dog be better / that is my expectation...simply put

I will agree - just like the electronic ZAP collar / most don't know how to lovingly train, with a choke chain either.
- and can do more wrong or harm, than good...in inexperienced hands
 

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Correction:
- manage your training tools, way beyond their break strength or intended purpose

I meant to say:
- manage your training tools, way below their break strength or intended purpose

P.S. - I didn't want any DT members thinking, that this e-Dad, is not a loving mentor, to his dobe...lol
 
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