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Hello friends, I am from India. I am a first time dog owner.

Yesterday (31th August), I cropped my 78 day old puppies ears. He had short ears, so I went in for long crop. I thought what's the point of medium or short crop if his ears are small. The vet wants to take off the stitches after 8 days. I live in a humid country. Monsoon season is still here since I live near the coast. I have put an e collar because pup loves to scratch his ears. Should I take off the stitches in 8 days or on 10th day.

He only knows sit, wait and stay command. I couldn't potty train him. My family who had no idea about guard dogs, pampered him like a toy breed dog. I am finding difficult to train him.

Another issue, I am facing is regarding posting. Although I have seen a lot of posting videos on youtube. I am not sure which one is best and gives good results in less time.

Breeders, Vets and Trainers still use old methods in here. My vet suggested using clamps to post his ears. I am not sure how it works. He guranteed that his ears will be erect permanently in 2 or 3 months. Need your help and suggestion on this matter too.

Now I am starting to regret cropping his years. If I can't get his ears to permanently stand, then what was the point of putting him through so much and discomfort.

Also I have been researching about supplements to help his healing process.

I have heard Ester C vitamin C tablets are good.
I have also heard that Sodium Abcorbate Vitamin are good too.
But these are not available in India. Shipping charges and taxes and duties will cost me a lot.
Is there any cheaper and effective alternative.

Plus Glucosamine Chondroitin sulfate is good.

My vet said puppy required extra calcium supplements. He said extra calcium will excreted through his body. And extra calcium will helps his ears to stand permanently quick.

I am feeding him royal canine food, 1 raw egg daily and boiled chicken sometimes. I am thinking of switching to smart heart puppy food because lot of internet Indian Doberman owner friends said it's better than royal canine for doberman breed.

I also give him zoetis Pet Tabs( Mineral and vitamins).

Some local herbal tonic which helps digestion and clears liver toxins.

Some local calcium supplements with vitamin D3.

He is now 6+ kg. I bought him when he was 4 weeks old. He was only 1.3kg then Indian breeders sell puppies around 25-35 days to incur less costs.

I made many mistakes. But how do I rectify them?

I will upload his pics. One pic of his cut ears might appear disturb some people. But I have to post it to know whether the vet did a good job or not.


His post cropping pic
 

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Hello friends, I am from India. I am a first time dog owner.

Yesterday (31th August), I cropped my 78 day old puppies ears. He had short ears, so I went in for long crop. I thought what's the point of medium or short crop if his ears are small. The vet wants to take off the stitches after 8 days. I live in a humid country. Monsoon season is still here since I live near the coast. I have put an e collar because pup loves to scratch his ears. Should I take off the stitches in 8 days or on 10th day.
It kind of depends--on average most vets take sutures on cropped ears out at about 7-9 days on the pinna (the ear leather) some like to leave the sutures in the base for a few more days. It looks like the ears taped over his head have the cropped and sutured edges taped over. Not such a good idea--ears edges, until completely and wholey healed (no scabs of raw spots) should be left exposed to air. It's possible to tape the rears over the head like your puppies are without taping over the cropped edge. And that's how they should be until healed or they should be left to just hang until they are healed completely and ready to post.

He only knows sit, wait and stay command. I couldn't potty train him. My family who had no idea about guard dogs, pampered him like a toy breed dog. I am finding difficult to train him.
So he's how old now? Sounds like he was cropped at about 2-1/2 months? So he's not even three months? Most puppies are not potty trained (or at least not reliably potty trained ) at that age. And it's a process--your family needs to get with the program and young puppies need to be taken out to potty when they wake up, before and after they eat, after they've been playing and in general while they are awake, at that age I'd say they need to go out to potty at least once an hour when they are awake. It won't be long before he's far too big to treat him like a toy dog.

Another issue, I am facing is regarding posting. Although I have seen a lot of posting videos on youtube. I am not sure which one is best and gives good results in less time.
Go to the section on Puppies/ears Forum and there is an excellent video on the easiest way to post ears using backer rod (also known as calking rod) it's a closed cell foam tubing that comes in a variety of sizes--3/8 or 1/2 is best for young puppies. In general there is no way to speed up the process of posting--the ears will stand (if you post them and keep them posted per the instructions on greenkouki's video. Basically that means you post them--leave them posted for a number of days (shorter period in hot humid area and take them down to clean the ears and dry them and put them back up--longer period if the weather is cooler and dry. You can almost count on it taking until the puppy is through teething. Teething generally starts at about 4 months and in complete around 6 months.

Breeders, Vets and Trainers still use old methods in here. My vet suggested using clamps to post his ears. I am not sure how it works. He guranteed that his ears will be erect permanently in 2 or 3 months. Need your help and suggestion on this matter too.
I've never even seen clamps used to post ears and I've been posting ears since 1959 with my very first Doberman. I can tell you a lot of methods that either don't work well or are painful for the puppies and it sounds like clamps would fall into that category.

Now I am starting to regret cropping his years. If I can't get his ears to permanently stand, then what was the point of putting him through so much and discomfort.
Well, now the ears are cropped and you can get them to stand but it isn't necessarily a quick process so bite the bullet and when they are healed start posting and don't stop until they stand and I recomend greenkouki's method and video is pretty easy to follow and you'll get good results.

Also I have been researching about supplements to help his healing process.
I'd be very careful about searchng the internet for way to speed up healing--some don't work and some can actually cause problems. So here's my input.

I have heard Ester C vitamin C tablets are good.
I have also heard that Sodium Abcorbate Vitamin are good too.
But these are not available in India. Shipping charges and taxes and duties will cost me a lot.
Is there any cheaper and effective alternative.
I'm not sure where the business of vitamin C helping healing came from. It doesn't And Sodium Ascorbic is just the active ingrediant in Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid or Sodium Ascorbate is one of the things that can cause problems. Dogs make their own Vitamin C--they don't need a suppliment. Only guinea pigs, fruit bats and humans don't make their own Vitamin C and must get it from their diet. Feeding extra Vitamin C can cause gastric problem and create leasions in the stomach and GI tract. So save your money and forget about Vitamin C.

Plus Glucosamine Chondroitin sulfate is good.
It at least won't cause problems but be careful when you start out giving it because it can cause diarrhea in puppies who aren't used to it--start with small quantities and increase if necessary.

My vet said puppy required extra calcium supplements. He said extra calcium will excreted through his body. And extra calcium will helps his ears to stand permanently quick.
Your vet is WRONG! Don't give extra calcium if you are feeding a decent commercial dog food--Royal Canin foods have sufficient calcium and giving too much calcium to a puppy can really cause problems with bone growth. And the extra calcium isn't going to help his ears stand. Royal Canin, Purina, Eukanuba which I think can all be found in India, all contain appropriate amounts of calcium. If you are feeding a puppy food look for a large breed puppy food and feed that or an all life stages food.

I am feeding him royal canine food, 1 raw egg daily and boiled chicken sometimes. I am thinking of switching to smart heart puppy food because lot of internet Indian Doberman owner friends said it's better than royal canine for doberman breed.
I guess that smart heart puppy food is local? I've never heard of it but I do know about Eukanuba, Royal Canin and Purina. My go to food for puppies and adult is Purina Pro Plan Focus Salmon and Rice (also labled as Sensitive Skin and Stomach) but sometime what you can get reliably and what your dog does well on is more important than labels. I feed an egg a day to puppies and usually some yogurt for one of their meals, the chicken is fine along with the kibble.

I also give him zoetis Pet Tabs( Mineral and vitamins).
Again, if you are feeding a good commercial dog food you don't need to be adding vitamins and minerals.

Some local herbal tonic which helps digestion and clears liver toxins.
Um--if you are feeding a good dog food and if the puppy sees a vet regularly for checks for worms or other parasites he shouldn't need an additional herbal tonic--and puppies really rarely need any help with their digestion.

Some local calcium supplements with vitamin D3.
Please, please, please--do NOT give extra calcium--your puppy eating Royal Canin food does not need it and it really can cause all sorts of bone problems in a growing puppy.

He is now 6+ kg. I bought him when he was 4 weeks old. He was only 1.3kg then Indian breeders sell puppies around 25-35 days to incur less costs.
6 kg--would be around 13 or 14 pound? (2.2 kg per pound?) at around 3 months? Sounds a littler light to me to me but if he doesn't look thin then it's probably fine--you really don't want puppies to be overly fat but they should carry enough weight that you can easily feel ribs and not see back bones or hip bones.

I made many mistakes. But how do I rectify them?

I will upload his pics. One pic of his cut ears might appear disturb some people. But I have to post it to know whether the vet did a good job or not.


His post cropping pic
Well, mistakes are mistakes and the two that concern me are the business of feeding extra calcium and Vitamin C--I would not do that and to repeat--it's been many years since extra calcium has been needed as a supplement for a puppy eating a good commercial kibble.

About the pictures of the portion of the ear that was removed when the crop was done. I've been present (and often have been the assistant in cropping) so the pictures don't bother me but you really can't judge a crop by the part the vet removed unless you saw the ear in it's entirety before the crop.

There are several people on these forums who can tell you if the crop looks good or not when the ears are healed and you start posting them so you'll have to wait for that.

Hope this information helps and keep asking question there are a number of very knowlegable people on these forums.

dobebug
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited by Moderator)
Hello friends, I am from India. I am a first time dog owner.

Yesterday (31th August), I cropped my 78 day old puppies ears. He had short ears, so I went in for long crop. I thought what's the point of medium or short crop if his ears are small. The vet wants to take off the stitches after 8 days. I live in a humid country. Monsoon season is still here since I live near the coast. I have put an e collar because pup loves to scratch his ears. Should I take off the stitches in 8 days or on 10th day.

He only knows sit, wait and stay command. I couldn't potty train him. My family who had no idea about guard dogs, pampered him like a toy breed dog. I am finding difficult to train him.

Another issue, I am facing is regarding posting. Although I have seen a lot of posting videos on youtube. I am not sure which one is best and gives good results in less time.

Breeders, Vets and Trainers still use old methods in here. My vet suggested using clamps to post his ears. I am not sure how it works. He guranteed that his ears will be erect permanently in 2 or 3 months. Need your help and suggestion on this matter too.

Now I am starting to regret cropping his years. If I can't get his ears to permanently stand, then what was the point of putting him through so much and discomfort.

Also I have been researching about supplements to help his healing process.

I have heard Ester C vitamin C tablets are good.
I have also heard that Sodium Abcorbate Vitamin are good too.
But these are not available in India. Shipping charges and taxes and duties will cost me a lot.
Is there any cheaper and effective alternative.

Plus Glucosamine Chondroitin sulfate is good.

My vet said puppy required extra calcium supplements. He said extra calcium will excreted through his body. And extra calcium will helps his ears to stand permanently quick.

I am feeding him royal canine food, 1 raw egg daily and boiled chicken sometimes. I am thinking of switching to smart heart puppy food because lot of internet Indian Doberman owner friends said it's better than royal canine for doberman breed.

I also give him zoetis Pet Tabs( Mineral and vitamins).

Some local herbal tonic which helps digestion and clears liver toxins.

Some local calcium supplements with vitamin D3.

He is now 6+ kg. I bought him when he was 4 weeks old. He was only 1.3kg then Indian breeders sell puppies around 25-35 days to incur less costs.

I made many mistakes. But how do I rectify them?

I will upload his pics. One pic of his cut ears might appear disturb some people. But I have to post it to know whether the vet did a good job or not.


His post cropping pic
It kind of depends--on average most vets take sutures on cropped ears out at about 7-9 days on the pinna (the ear leather) some like to leave the sutures in the base for a few more days. It looks like the ears taped over his head have the cropped and sutured edges taped over. Not such a good idea--ears edges, until completely and wholey healed (no scabs of raw spots) should be left exposed to air. It's possible to tape the rears over the head like your puppies are without taping over the cropped edge. And that's how they should be until healed or they should be left to just hang until they are healed completely and ready to post.



So he's how old now? Sounds like he was cropped at about 2-1/2 months? So he's not even three months? Most puppies are not potty trained (or at least not reliably potty trained ) at that age. And it's a process--your family needs to get with the program and young puppies need to be taken out to potty when they wake up, before and after they eat, after they've been playing and in general while they are awake, at that age I'd say they need to go out to potty at least once an hour when they are awake. It won't be long before he's far too big to treat him like a toy dog.



Go to the section on Puppies/ears Forum and there is an excellent video on the easiest way to post ears using backer rod (also known as calking rod) it's a closed cell foam tubing that comes in a variety of sizes--3/8 or 1/2 is best for young puppies. In general there is no way to speed up the process of posting--the ears will stand (if you post them and keep them posted per the instructions on greenkouki's video. Basically that means you post them--leave them posted for a number of days (shorter period in hot humid area and take them down to clean the ears and dry them and put them back up--longer period if the weather is cooler and dry. You can almost count on it taking until the puppy is through teething. Teething generally starts at about 4 months and in complete around 6 months.


I've never even seen clamps used to post ears and I've been posting ears since 1959 with my very first Doberman. I can tell you a lot of methods that either don't work well or are painful for the puppies and it sounds like clamps would fall into that category.



Well, now the ears are cropped and you can get them to stand but it isn't necessarily a quick process so bite the bullet and when they are healed start posting and don't stop until they stand and I recomend greenkouki's method and video is pretty easy to follow and you'll get good results.



I'd be very careful about searchng the internet for way to speed up healing--some don't work and some can actually cause problems. So here's my input.



I'm not sure where the business of vitamin C helping healing came from. It doesn't And Sodium Ascorbic is just the active ingrediant in Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid or Sodium Ascorbate is one of the things that can cause problems. Dogs make their own Vitamin C--they don't need a suppliment. Only guinea pigs, fruit bats and humans don't make their own Vitamin C and must get it from their diet. Feeding extra Vitamin C can cause gastric problem and create leasions in the stomach and GI tract. So save your money and forget about Vitamin C.



It at least won't cause problems but be careful when you start out giving it because it can cause diarrhea in puppies who aren't used to it--start with small quantities and increase if necessary.



Your vet is WRONG! Don't give extra calcium if you are feeding a decent commercial dog food--Royal Canin foods have sufficient calcium and giving too much calcium to a puppy can really cause problems with bone growth. And the extra calcium isn't going to help his ears stand. Royal Canin, Purina, Eukanuba which I think can all be found in India, all contain appropriate amounts of calcium. If you are feeding a puppy food look for a large breed puppy food and feed that or an all life stages food.



I guess that smart heart puppy food is local? I've never heard of it but I do know about Eukanuba, Royal Canin and Purina. My go to food for puppies and adult is Purina Pro Plan Focus Salmon and Rice (also labled as Sensitive Skin and Stomach) but sometime what you can get reliably and what your dog does well on is more important than labels. I feed an egg a day to puppies and usually some yogurt for one of their meals, the chicken is fine along with the kibble.



Again, if you are feeding a good commercial dog food you don't need to be adding vitamins and minerals.



Um--if you are feeding a good dog food and if the puppy sees a vet regularly for checks for worms or other parasites he shouldn't need an additional herbal tonic--and puppies really rarely need any help with their digestion.



Please, please, please--do NOT give extra calcium--your puppy eating Royal Canin food does not need it and it really can cause all sorts of bone problems in a growing puppy.



6 kg--would be around 13 or 14 pound? (2.2 kg per pound?) at around 3 months? Sounds a littler light to me to me but if he doesn't look thin then it's probably fine--you really don't want puppies to be overly fat but they should carry enough weight that you can easily feel ribs and not see back bones or hip bones.



Well, mistakes are mistakes and the two that concern me are the business of feeding extra calcium and Vitamin C--I would not do that and to repeat--it's been many years since extra calcium has been needed as a supplement for a puppy eating a good commercial kibble.

About the pictures of the portion of the ear that was removed when the crop was done. I've been present (and often have been the assistant in cropping) so the pictures don't bother me but you really can't judge a crop by the part the vet removed unless you saw the ear in it's entirety before the crop.

There are several people on these forums who can tell you if the crop looks good or not when the ears are healed and you start posting them so you'll have to wait for that.

Hope this information helps and keep asking question there are a number of very knowlegable people on these forums.

dobebug
Thanks for your very informative reply.

I would like to apologize in advance for not quoting your replies individually. I don't see any option to do that on my android phone.

1. The vet pulled his ears over the head and taped them.

2. He does not even like leash. He does not even like collar with no leash. He bites the leash and pulls it.
Other strange thing I noticed is that he does not pee or poo when I take him outside. He always does it inside. And he is very afraid of other people and even friendly dogs outside.

3. Backer rod method is the best method from what I have heard but I don't know whether I can post him for a year or more since it's a long crop. My dog does not stay still. He does not listen to me. I have to use force to put a collar and leash on him. So is there a painful effective method which requires less duration. I assume you are an experienced vet since your doing this since 1959. There must have different methods back then.

4. I have heard on other forums that quality Vitamin C like Ester C accelerates the healing process. For now I have been giving him cheap vitamin C. No digestion issues so far.

5. I stepped on his leg thrice. My brother did that too once. 66 year old highly experienced vet saw a problem in that same leg. It was a visual observation. My earlier vets found no problem with it. He told me to give him calcium supplements.

6. Smart Heart is a Thai company. Less know. But better reviews than Royal Canine and Purina. My facebook Doberman owning friends too ditched royal canine and Purina for Smart heart. They good very good results.
https://smartheart.my/about-us/

7. When I got him he was very thin. Only 4 weeks old. Quality of Indian Doberman is very poor compared what you find in west. From my observation even American Doberman puppies in USA have thicker bones and a bigger frame and much more muscular.
When I bought him and he got friendly with us in a week. I noticed he had anxiety issues too. I thought about selling him and buying an expensive better quality Doberman puppy which was 5 times expensive than him. But it felt wrong to me and my brother. So we kept him. All the Pampering caused him to bite me aggressively. Every time he bit me there was blood. I even took 3 rabies shots and tetanus injection. But I thought of resolving his issues. The main reason I decided to crop him is because I read it disciplines them.

If you reply and guide me further, I would be indebted to you.

Look, we had pets like birds, guinea pigs, fishes and a tortoise. But we knew nothing about dogs. I decided to buy a dog due because I diagnosed with clinical depression and still undergoing treatment.

I was never attracted to friendly dogs like labradors, golden retrievers or toy dogs like pugs. My 1st choice was pitbull. But my brother said no. So I bought a less aggressive and more healthy and easy to train Doberman.

Thanks again for your precious time.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
My vet recommended old school clamp(scissor like) post method. 100 grams clam will be posted for on each ear for 2 months without break. He will monitor the puppy every now and then. He said guranteed that even long crop ears will stand permanently in 2 months. The puppy will be on pain killers during that time so he won't feel anytime. He did not explain it in detail. But if I visit him next time I will ask him to demonstrate it.

Has anyone heard about this?
 

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It kind of depends--on average most vets take sutures on cropped ears out at about 7-9 days on the pinna (the ear leather) some like to leave the sutures in the base for a few more days. It looks like the ears taped over his head have the cropped and sutured edges taped over. Not such a good idea--ears edges, until completely and wholey healed (no scabs of raw spots) should be left exposed to air. It's possible to tape the rears over the head like your puppies are without taping over the cropped edge. And that's how they should be until healed or they should be left to just hang until they are healed completely and ready to post.



So he's how old now? Sounds like he was cropped at about 2-1/2 months? So he's not even three months? Most puppies are not potty trained (or at least not reliably potty trained ) at that age. And it's a process--your family needs to get with the program and young puppies need to be taken out to potty when they wake up, before and after they eat, after they've been playing and in general while they are awake, at that age I'd say they need to go out to potty at least once an hour when they are awake. It won't be long before he's far too big to treat him like a toy dog.



Go to the section on Puppies/ears Forum and there is an excellent video on the easiest way to post ears using backer rod (also known as calking rod) it's a closed cell foam tubing that comes in a variety of sizes--3/8 or 1/2 is best for young puppies. In general there is no way to speed up the process of posting--the ears will stand (if you post them and keep them posted per the instructions on greenkouki's video. Basically that means you post them--leave them posted for a number of days (shorter period in hot humid area and take them down to clean the ears and dry them and put them back up--longer period if the weather is cooler and dry. You can almost count on it taking until the puppy is through teething. Teething generally starts at about 4 months and in complete around 6 months.


I've never even seen clamps used to post ears and I've been posting ears since 1959 with my very first Doberman. I can tell you a lot of methods that either don't work well or are painful for the puppies and it sounds like clamps would fall into that category.



Well, now the ears are cropped and you can get them to stand but it isn't necessarily a quick process so bite the bullet and when they are healed start posting and don't stop until they stand and I recomend greenkouki's method and video is pretty easy to follow and you'll get good results.



I'd be very careful about searchng the internet for way to speed up healing--some don't work and some can actually cause problems. So here's my input.



I'm not sure where the business of vitamin C helping healing came from. It doesn't And Sodium Ascorbic is just the active ingrediant in Vitamin C. Ascorbic acid or Sodium Ascorbate is one of the things that can cause problems. Dogs make their own Vitamin C--they don't need a suppliment. Only guinea pigs, fruit bats and humans don't make their own Vitamin C and must get it from their diet. Feeding extra Vitamin C can cause gastric problem and create leasions in the stomach and GI tract. So save your money and forget about Vitamin C.



It at least won't cause problems but be careful when you start out giving it because it can cause diarrhea in puppies who aren't used to it--start with small quantities and increase if necessary.



Your vet is WRONG! Don't give extra calcium if you are feeding a decent commercial dog food--Royal Canin foods have sufficient calcium and giving too much calcium to a puppy can really cause problems with bone growth. And the extra calcium isn't going to help his ears stand. Royal Canin, Purina, Eukanuba which I think can all be found in India, all contain appropriate amounts of calcium. If you are feeding a puppy food look for a large breed puppy food and feed that or an all life stages food.



I guess that smart heart puppy food is local? I've never heard of it but I do know about Eukanuba, Royal Canin and Purina. My go to food for puppies and adult is Purina Pro Plan Focus Salmon and Rice (also labled as Sensitive Skin and Stomach) but sometime what you can get reliably and what your dog does well on is more important than labels. I feed an egg a day to puppies and usually some yogurt for one of their meals, the chicken is fine along with the kibble.



Again, if you are feeding a good commercial dog food you don't need to be adding vitamins and minerals.



Um--if you are feeding a good dog food and if the puppy sees a vet regularly for checks for worms or other parasites he shouldn't need an additional herbal tonic--and puppies really rarely need any help with their digestion.



Please, please, please--do NOT give extra calcium--your puppy eating Royal Canin food does not need it and it really can cause all sorts of bone problems in a growing puppy.



6 kg--would be around 13 or 14 pound? (2.2 kg per pound?) at around 3 months? Sounds a littler light to me to me but if he doesn't look thin then it's probably fine--you really don't want puppies to be overly fat but they should carry enough weight that you can easily feel ribs and not see back bones or hip bones.



Well, mistakes are mistakes and the two that concern me are the business of feeding extra calcium and Vitamin C--I would not do that and to repeat--it's been many years since extra calcium has been needed as a supplement for a puppy eating a good commercial kibble.

About the pictures of the portion of the ear that was removed when the crop was done. I've been present (and often have been the assistant in cropping) so the pictures don't bother me but you really can't judge a crop by the part the vet removed unless you saw the ear in it's entirety before the crop.

There are several people on these forums who can tell you if the crop looks good or not when the ears are healed and you start posting them so you'll have to wait for that.

Hope this information helps and keep asking question there are a number of very knowlegable people on these forums.

dobebug
This is hip side pic. I can't get him to stay still so this is not a good quality image.



Do you think he is very underweight? Should I feed him more?
 

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Thanks for your very informative reply.

I would like to apologize in advance for not quoting your replies individually. I don't see any option to do that on my android phone.
It seems to me that I've heard from other people that you can't do the quote method I'm using on a mobile device but that's OK--I know what I said.

1. The vet pulled his ears over the head and taped them.
Well even though it was the vet who taped them that way--the raw edge of a newly cropped ear should not be covered with tape, bandages or anything else and I can hardly count on the number of puppies I've seen over the years that have been posted immediately after cropping, have had tape slapped over newly cropped areas--it still doesn't make it the right thing to do. I am NOT a vet--I've worked at a vet clinic now for 16 years but I came with a lot of experience with Dobermans and cropped ears and have assisted vets with cropping. Covering a raw edge like that is often how infections start.

2. He does not even like leash. He does not even like collar with no leash. He bites the leash and pulls it.
Other strange thing I noticed is that he does not pee or poo when I take him outside. He always does it inside. And he is very afraid of other people and even friendly dogs outside.
Your expectation for behavior on this puppy are way out of line for his age. He is a BABY--he knows nothing--your job is to teach him. I use a flat collar on puppies and i leave it on them--all the time. I take an old short leash and clip it on the collar and let him drag it around for few days. Then I take a handful of treats and walk--I call the puppy--I show him the treats--I give him one when he comes along with he. If he bites the leash I hold it up so he can't bite it and don't let him--it's a bad habit. It takes days to a few weeks to get a puppy who will trot along with me. It doesn't happen overnight or in a few days.

Ditto for training a puppy to go potty outside. I put them on a leash--I go outside with them--I take them out when I'm pretty sure they'll need to go potty--when they first wake up or when they've had a meal or when they've been playing--when I take them out to go potty I don't play with with them--and i STAY out with them until they have done something. If they don't I take them inside (you have a crate for him?) I put him in the crate for five or ten minutes--then I take him back outside. I don't let him loose in the house to go away where I can't watch him like a hawk and get somewhere and poop or pee because no one was watching. Sometimes a use a leash and attach it to me so he can't go away and potty--I want him to know,absolutely that the house is not a bathroom. But it takes time and it takes someone watching him all the time at first.

And I'll remind you--he is a BABY--for wild canines being wary around stange thing is a survival factor. Strange dogs might kill and eat him--he doesn't know much about people yet. So it's not surprising that a puppy may be shy or fearful around other dogs and strange people. Socialization will help that and I wouldn't worry much about socializing him around other dogs--adult Dobes don't always get along with other adult dogs--that's no big deal--they don't need to. Since you have no other dogs in the house there is no real reason for him to need to have dog friends.

3. Backer rod method is the best method from what I have heard but I don't know whether I can post him for a year or more since it's a long crop. My dog does not stay still. He does not listen to me. I have to use force to put a collar and leash on him. So is there a painful effective method which requires less duration. I assume you are an experienced vet since your doing this since 1959. There must have different methods back then.
The backer rod method of posting ears and practically every other method that is just a modification of that method is by far and away the best method I've ever seen or used. And even in 1959 with the first dog it was a very similar way of posting ears--for ears that turned out well every time--the only big difference was the brand of tape used and the the post material itself was usually things like rolled paper towels or dental cotton dam material..

He doesn't listen to you because he doesn't speak your language and chances are poor that he actually knows what you want. You need to teach him everything. Leave a flat, well fitted collar on him at this point of his life--then you don't have to fight to get the collar on--give him a treat when you snap the leash on. You know after you described the clamp--I'm pretty sure that I saw the end result of a posting method like that--it was good many years ago and the ears were on an imported dog--from Europe somewhere--they ears looked like bear ears and in talking to the owner he described something that sounds like the clamps--but the end result was that the ears died from being clamped too hard--became infection so badly they had to be recropped very short to take off all the dead and dying tissue. So NO I would not even consider trying a method that is painful, needs the pup to be tranquilized and could result in ears like I saw on that dog.

As I said earlier--I am NOT a vet but I am a very experience Doberman owner and have been posting ears on my own dogs and teaching other people to post ears on their dogs for many years.

4. I have heard on other forums that quality Vitamin C like Ester C accelerates the healing process. For now I have been giving him cheap vitamin C. No digestion issues so far.
You will hear all kinds of things on forums, lists and just general data on the internet. Doesn't mean that it's accurate or even true or that the information isn't dated and found to be invalid. So I can only tell you that I do not give addition Vitamin C in any form to my puppies and I never would recommend that anyone else do so.

5. I stepped on his leg thrice. My brother did that too once. 66 year old highly experienced vet saw a problem in that same leg. It was a visual observation. My earlier vets found no problem with it. He told me to give him calcium supplements.
Again this is an area in which sometimes even vets can give advice that isn't the best. Foods have changed a lot over the years and there was a time when you did need to give added calcium to puppies but the formulations of even some very poor brands of kibble have sufficient calcium that you should not be supplementing it further.

6. Smart Heart is a Thai company. Less know. But better reviews than Royal Canine and Purina. My facebook Doberman owning friends too ditched royal canine and Purina for Smart heart. They good very good results.
https://smartheart.my/about-us/
Thank you for the link to Smart Heart--this appears to be a well designed complete food manufactured and tested properly so it looks like a reasonable alternative to the foods that I am familiar with and would feed.

7. When I got him he was very thin. Only 4 weeks old. Quality of Indian Doberman is very poor compared what you find in west. From my observation even American Doberman puppies in USA have thicker bones and a bigger frame and much more muscular.
When I bought him and he got friendly with us in a week. I noticed he had anxiety issues too. I thought about selling him and buying an expensive better quality Doberman puppy which was 5 times expensive than him. But it felt wrong to me and my brother. So we kept him. All the Pampering caused him to bite me aggressively. Every time he bit me there was blood. I even took 3 rabies shots and tetanus injection. But I thought of resolving his issues. The main reason I decided to crop him is because I read it disciplines them.
That picture you posted was excellent for showing body condition. Your puppy is very thin. How many times a day are feeding him and how much kibble is he getting at each meal? You do need to feed him more. His spine and hips should be well covered you shouldn't see any of the boney structure there and his ribs should be well covered too--if you see ribs at all in should only by the last couple of ribs.

Anxiety issues? What kind of anxiety issues. Getting accustomed to you in a week is about what I'd expect for a puppy as young as he was when you got him--4 or 4.5 weeks didn't you say? Also he was removed from the only thing he'd known at that point--his mother and his litter mates--he was probably scared to death.

And by the way--even if the American Dobes you've seen (in person or in pictures?) look heavier boned and bigger and more muscular--they were all probably much older and puppies as they grow do get bigger, and there is bone development and they definitely get more muscular. So don't expect to see a very young puppy who looks like a grown dog. Males typically don't reach full maturity until sometime between 2 and 3 years.

He bites you because that's how puppies play with other puppies--there is a post (I think it's also in the beginning of the puppy forum called something like "My puppy is biting me" Find that and read it--it's very informative as to why puppies bite and how to stop it. At his age it isn't aggression--it's how he'd play with his litter mates and his mother--for a dog it's a means of communication.

Oh dear! Cropping doesn't discipline a puppy--how these things get started amazes me. You teach the puppy discipline and when you start posting your puppy they learn (quickly if you have treats and patience) that the posting not only doesn't hurt it will get things like pets, praise and yummy treats And one of our forum members has always said that it is the most important and best of the bonding experiences he has with his puppies.

If you reply and guide me further, I would be indebted to you.

Look, we had pets like birds, guinea pigs, fishes and a tortoise. But we knew nothing about dogs. I decided to buy a dog due because I diagnosed with clinical depression and still undergoing treatment.

I was never attracted to friendly dogs like labradors, golden retrievers or toy dogs like pugs. My 1st choice was pitbull. But my brother said no. So I bought a less aggressive and more healthy and easy to train Doberman.

Thanks again for your precious time.
Your puppy will in the long run be what you make him. For the record, pitbulls are really only aggressive toward other dogs and that is what they were bred for--dog to dog fighting in pits. Most pits are pretty friendly dogs and those that are not are generally conditioned and trained not to be. Dobermans on the other hand were bred to be personal protectors--they generally aren't particularly dog friendly either and as adults (adults--most puppies and teenage dogs--even Dobes, are pretty friendly)-the adults are more protective and even the look of a Doberman is a pretty good scary appearance. Doberman are smart dogs--they are easy to train but smart dogs also are apt to train you as well so you don't have to be violent about it but just keep in mind who is training who. For a lot of the training it works best in short intervals several times a day and Dobes don't take well to rote training in long periods of time. Often a Dobe once they have learned something you want them to do (or not do) don't want nor need to keep repeating it over and over. Short brush ups work fine.

Good luck--keep asking question from these forums there are many very knowlegable people here who will help as you go along.

Just don't expect behavior of an adult trained dog from your puppy--he's just a puppy and will learn as much as you are willing to train him. But that all takes time and the training should be done with treat, patience and love.

dobebug
 

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Is 440 grams of dry food in a day enough for him. I will split it into 4 meals.
I don't think so--the conversion table I use is 227 grams per cup dry.

What's your puppies actual age now--has he reached 3 months or is he still under 3 months?

I probably would be feeding him three times a day at this age not four but because he's really very thin I might feed 4 meals a day until he gains some weight.

At three months I am usually feeding male puppies about 3 cups of kibble per day plus extras--like an egg, some yogurt and a little meat. I put one extra in the kibble and a little warm water. So they are getting about 227 grams of kibble per meal plus an egg for breakfast, 227 grams of kibble plus a spoonful of yogurt for lunch and about 227 grams of kibble plus a little meat for dinner.

Looks to me like your puppy should be getting about 1/3 more kibble than he's getting just to get his weight up to where it should be.

And from 3 to 4 months I usually would be adding a little more kibble so that by the time he gets to four month I'd be feeding about 1-1/3 cups of kibble per meal--so that by 4 months he'd be getting around 4 cups a day or in grams that would be around twice the amount you were wondering about.
(880 grams per day split into 3 meals a day.)

Hope this helps. For the record one of my favorite breeders always tells her puppy owners that up to three or four months she gives puppies as much as they will eat at every meal and at those ages she's feeding them three times a day. By four months she has a pretty good idea of just how much they'll eat and if they are too fat or too thin on that amount or just right and makes adjustments from there.

dobebug
 

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Dobebug is giving you really good advice, so I'm not going to add anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Thanks for your very informative reply.

I would like to apologize in advance for not quoting your replies individually. I don't see any option to do that on my android phone.
It seems to me that I've heard from other people that you can't do the quote method I'm using on a mobile device but that's OK--I know what I said.

1. The vet pulled his ears over the head and taped them.
Well even though it was the vet who taped them that way--the raw edge of a newly cropped ear should not be covered with tape, bandages or anything else and I can hardly count on the number of puppies I've seen over the years that have been posted immediately after cropping, have had tape slapped over newly cropped areas--it still doesn't make it the right thing to do. I am NOT a vet--I've worked at a vet clinic now for 16 years but I came with a lot of experience with Dobermans and cropped ears and have assisted vets with cropping. Covering a raw edge like that is often how infections start.

2. He does not even like leash. He does not even like collar with no leash. He bites the leash and pulls it.
Other strange thing I noticed is that he does not pee or poo when I take him outside. He always does it inside. And he is very afraid of other people and even friendly dogs outside.
Your expectation for behavior on this puppy are way out of line for his age. He is a BABY--he knows nothing--your job is to teach him. I use a flat collar on puppies and i leave it on them--all the time. I take an old short leash and clip it on the collar and let him drag it around for few days. Then I take a handful of treats and walk--I call the puppy--I show him the treats--I give him one when he comes along with he. If he bites the leash I hold it up so he can't bite it and don't let him--it's a bad habit. It takes days to a few weeks to get a puppy who will trot along with me. It doesn't happen overnight or in a few days.

Ditto for training a puppy to go potty outside. I put them on a leash--I go outside with them--I take them out when I'm pretty sure they'll need to go potty--when they first wake up or when they've had a meal or when they've been playing--when I take them out to go potty I don't play with with them--and i STAY out with them until they have done something. If they don't I take them inside (you have a crate for him?) I put him in the crate for five or ten minutes--then I take him back outside. I don't let him loose in the house to go away where I can't watch him like a hawk and get somewhere and poop or pee because no one was watching. Sometimes a use a leash and attach it to me so he can't go away and potty--I want him to know,absolutely that the house is not a bathroom. But it takes time and it takes someone watching him all the time at first.

And I'll remind you--he is a BABY--for wild canines being wary around stange thing is a survival factor. Strange dogs might kill and eat him--he doesn't know much about people yet. So it's not surprising that a puppy may be shy or fearful around other dogs and strange people. Socialization will help that and I wouldn't worry much about socializing him around other dogs--adult Dobes don't always get along with other adult dogs--that's no big deal--they don't need to. Since you have no other dogs in the house there is no real reason for him to need to have dog friends.

3. Backer rod method is the best method from what I have heard but I don't know whether I can post him for a year or more since it's a long crop. My dog does not stay still. He does not listen to me. I have to use force to put a collar and leash on him. So is there a painful effective method which requires less duration. I assume you are an experienced vet since your doing this since 1959. There must have different methods back then.
The backer rod method of posting ears and practically every other method that is just a modification of that method is by far and away the best method I've ever seen or used. And even in 1959 with the first dog it was a very similar way of posting ears--for ears that turned out well every time--the only big difference was the brand of tape used and the the post material itself was usually things like rolled paper towels or dental cotton dam material..

He doesn't listen to you because he doesn't speak your language and chances are poor that he actually knows what you want. You need to teach him everything. Leave a flat, well fitted collar on him at this point of his life--then you don't have to fight to get the collar on--give him a treat when you snap the leash on. You know after you described the clamp--I'm pretty sure that I saw the end result of a posting method like that--it was good many years ago and the ears were on an imported dog--from Europe somewhere--they ears looked like bear ears and in talking to the owner he described something that sounds like the clamps--but the end result was that the ears died from being clamped too hard--became infection so badly they had to be recropped very short to take off all the dead and dying tissue. So NO I would not even consider trying a method that is painful, needs the pup to be tranquilized and could result in ears like I saw on that dog.

As I said earlier--I am NOT a vet but I am a very experience Doberman owner and have been posting ears on my own dogs and teaching other people to post ears on their dogs for many years.

4. I have heard on other forums that quality Vitamin C like Ester C accelerates the healing process. For now I have been giving him cheap vitamin C. No digestion issues so far.
You will hear all kinds of things on forums, lists and just general data on the internet. Doesn't mean that it's accurate or even true or that the information isn't dated and found to be invalid. So I can only tell you that I do not give addition Vitamin C in any form to my puppies and I never would recommend that anyone else do so.

5. I stepped on his leg thrice. My brother did that too once. 66 year old highly experienced vet saw a problem in that same leg. It was a visual observation. My earlier vets found no problem with it. He told me to give him calcium supplements.
Again this is an area in which sometimes even vets can give advice that isn't the best. Foods have changed a lot over the years and there was a time when you did need to give added calcium to puppies but the formulations of even some very poor brands of kibble have sufficient calcium that you should not be supplementing it further.

6. Smart Heart is a Thai company. Less know. But better reviews than Royal Canine and Purina. My facebook Doberman owning friends too ditched royal canine and Purina for Smart heart. They good very good results.
https://smartheart.my/about-us/
Thank you for the link to Smart Heart--this appears to be a well designed complete food manufactured and tested properly so it looks like a reasonable alternative to the foods that I am familiar with and would feed.

7. When I got him he was very thin. Only 4 weeks old. Quality of Indian Doberman is very poor compared what you find in west. From my observation even American Doberman puppies in USA have thicker bones and a bigger frame and much more muscular.
When I bought him and he got friendly with us in a week. I noticed he had anxiety issues too. I thought about selling him and buying an expensive better quality Doberman puppy which was 5 times expensive than him. But it felt wrong to me and my brother. So we kept him. All the Pampering caused him to bite me aggressively. Every time he bit me there was blood. I even took 3 rabies shots and tetanus injection. But I thought of resolving his issues. The main reason I decided to crop him is because I read it disciplines them.
That picture you posted was excellent for showing body condition. Your puppy is very thin. How many times a day are feeding him and how much kibble is he getting at each meal? You do need to feed him more. His spine and hips should be well covered you shouldn't see any of the boney structure there and his ribs should be well covered too--if you see ribs at all in should only by the last couple of ribs.

Anxiety issues? What kind of anxiety issues. Getting accustomed to you in a week is about what I'd expect for a puppy as young as he was when you got him--4 or 4.5 weeks didn't you say? Also he was removed from the only thing he'd known at that point--his mother and his litter mates--he was probably scared to death.

And by the way--even if the American Dobes you've seen (in person or in pictures?) look heavier boned and bigger and more muscular--they were all probably much older and puppies as they grow do get bigger, and there is bone development and they definitely get more muscular. So don't expect to see a very young puppy who looks like a grown dog. Males typically don't reach full maturity until sometime between 2 and 3 years.

He bites you because that's how puppies play with other puppies--there is a post (I think it's also in the beginning of the puppy forum called something like "My puppy is biting me" Find that and read it--it's very informative as to why puppies bite and how to stop it. At his age it isn't aggression--it's how he'd play with his litter mates and his mother--for a dog it's a means of communication.

Oh dear! Cropping doesn't discipline a puppy--how these things get started amazes me. You teach the puppy discipline and when you start posting your puppy they learn (quickly if you have treats and patience) that the posting not only doesn't hurt it will get things like pets, praise and yummy treats And one of our forum members has always said that it is the most important and best of the bonding experiences he has with his puppies.

If you reply and guide me further, I would be indebted to you.

Look, we had pets like birds, guinea pigs, fishes and a tortoise. But we knew nothing about dogs. I decided to buy a dog due because I diagnosed with clinical depression and still undergoing treatment.

I was never attracted to friendly dogs like labradors, golden retrievers or toy dogs like pugs. My 1st choice was pitbull. But my brother said no. So I bought a less aggressive and more healthy and easy to train Doberman.

Thanks again for your precious time.
Your puppy will in the long run be what you make him. For the record, pitbulls are really only aggressive toward other dogs and that is what they were bred for--dog to dog fighting in pits. Most pits are pretty friendly dogs and those that are not are generally conditioned and trained not to be. Dobermans on the other hand were bred to be personal protectors--they generally aren't particularly dog friendly either and as adults (adults--most puppies and teenage dogs--even Dobes, are pretty friendly)-the adults are more protective and even the look of a Doberman is a pretty good scary appearance. Doberman are smart dogs--they are easy to train but smart dogs also are apt to train you as well so you don't have to be violent about it but just keep in mind who is training who. For a lot of the training it works best in short intervals several times a day and Dobes don't take well to rote training in long periods of time. Often a Dobe once they have learned something you want them to do (or not do) don't want nor need to keep repeating it over and over. Short brush ups work fine.

Good luck--keep asking question from these forums there are many very knowlegable people here who will help as you go along.

Just don't expect behavior of an adult trained dog from your puppy--he's just a puppy and will learn as much as you are willing to train him. But that all takes time and the training should be done with treat, patience and love.

dobebug
Is 440 grams of dry food in a day enough for him. I will split it into 4 meals.
I don't think so--the conversion table I use is 227 grams per cup dry.

What's your puppies actual age now--has he reached 3 months or is he still under 3 months?

I probably would be feeding him three times a day at this age not four but because he's really very thin I might feed 4 meals a day until he gains some weight.

At three months I am usually feeding male puppies about 3 cups of kibble per day plus extras--like an egg, some yogurt and a little meat. I put one extra in the kibble and a little warm water. So they are getting about 227 grams of kibble per meal plus an egg for breakfast, 227 grams of kibble plus a spoonful of yogurt for lunch and about 227 grams of kibble plus a little meat for dinner.

Looks to me like your puppy should be getting about 1/3 more kibble than he's getting just to get his weight up to where it should be.

And from 3 to 4 months I usually would be adding a little more kibble so that by the time he gets to four month I'd be feeding about 1-1/3 cups of kibble per meal--so that by 4 months he'd be getting around 4 cups a day or in grams that would be around twice the amount you were wondering about.
(880 grams per day split into 3 meals a day.)

Hope this helps. For the record one of my favorite breeders always tells her puppy owners that up to three or four months she gives puppies as much as they will eat at every meal and at those ages she's feeding them three times a day. By four months she has a pretty good idea of just how much they'll eat and if they are too fat or too thin on that amount or just right and makes adjustments from there.

dobebug
1 cup = 224 grams. I had to google to that.

He is 81 days old not 3 months yet.

According to this chart,


440 grams is enough for him. I started feeding him 440 grams. His belly is bloated. I think the medication is making him more thirsty. He drinks a lot of water.
I have no problem with feeding him 500 grams. I think he is now around 7 kgs. Cuz when I lift him he definitely feels heavier. I have not tried to measure his weight due to e collar and his stitches

I am going to switch to farmina N & D ancestral grain after my current food runs out. The import duties will make it lot expensive. But I will go for it. Since I have heard got reviews about it.


I know closer shots make the puppies look bigger. But there is a difference in quality. You get better quality puppies in the west.

Excluding the handful kennels who participate in international dog shows, all are backyard breeders. Many interbreed Doberman with other breeds. Most start take them off mother's milk at 20 days and sell them. Many don't even take then to the vet for checkup. Puppies who are on mother's milk for 60 days are healthy. General Awareness in here is low. Regulations aren't strict. You will find breeders operating out of their tiny slum homes. So I would say that quality wise India dobermans are on the lower side.

Regarding posting, I will decide on that after stitches are taken out. I will post a picture of him and give an update.


Thanks for your quality posts.

Edit : India is mostly hot and humid country. High calorie and High protein diets are even hard for Indians. In cold climate, you can eat a lot as your metabolism goes up and you burn a lot of calories. So the climate too plays a role. Thankfully my dog hasn't been through an Indian summer yet.
 

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Dobebug gives very good advice and has a wealth of experience to back up what she says—she is our go-to person for answers to all kinds of dog, and especially dobe, questions.

She mentioned the thread "Help my puppy is biting me!", so I thought I would provide the link for that thread:
https://www.dobermantalk.com/puppy-corner/295202-help-my-puppy-biting-me.html

It will give you some good ideas about how to handle puppy biting—doberman puppies are like little sharks, but they're not being vicious. They just don't have any manners yet, so it's up to you to teach them how to behave around people. The thread gives some good techniques you can use to teach them that they shouldn't put their teeth and mouth on you, without being too rough and severe.
______________________________________________________

The feeding amounts provided by various dog food manufacturers are just basic guidelines. Some dogs will eat more, some less. When I'm trying to figure out how much to feed a particular dog, I use those numbers as a start and then adjust upwards or downwards according to the puppy's body condition. If your puppy still looks like he did in the picture you posted, he is too thin, and you should feed him more.

To tell if he is a good weight, you need to look at his ribs, backbone and hipbones. In an adult dog, you should be able to see the last few ribs (toward his hips) and feel the rest, with no really obvious fat layer between his skin and his ribs when you rub your fingers back and forth over them. His backbone should not stick out; neither should his hipbones—if they do, he is too thin. But you shouldn't see rolls of fat at the base of his tail or neck; those would mean the dog is overweight. In an adult dog, you want to see a tucked up belly—you don't want to see his belly sagging or even just straight across. You pretty much judge puppies the same as an adult dog, except that you can expect that some days he will look pudgy and others too lanky and thin, because his body shape will change as he goes through growth spurts. You may not see much of a tuck up in a puppy either, because they are just built differently and haven't really developed a lot of muscle yet.

So I just give a puppy a good looking at every day—if he looks a bit thin, I up the food a little (maybe 1/4 cup per feeding) If he looks overweight, I decrease the food slightly. Because they are growing and developing, the amount a puppy needs to eat will change fairly drastically as he gets bigger. Once they are adults then they don't need as much food to stay at a good weight.
 

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1 cup = 224 grams. I had to google to that.

He is 81 days old not 3 months yet.

According to this chart,
Food charts will vary a lot from one brand to another. I'd rather wondered about this one. Except at the very young ages the amounts seem rather off for males. And when you get into the over 1 year amounts recommended if I fed that quantity to any of my adult males at two and three years they would be rolling in fat.

I think the information that MeadowCat posted is a better way to tell--use the general recommendations on the back of food as a guidline and adjust it as necessary by looking at the puppy daily--they do change a lot day to day--and just before they enter a growth stage they may look round and roly poly--and two days later they'll look like colts--all leg and no body.

440 grams is enough for him. I started feeding him 440 grams. His belly is bloated. I think the medication is making him more thirsty. He drinks a lot of water.
Puppies do drink a lot of water--antibiotics would not normally make him more thirsty and neither should the pain meds--but I'd take him off the pain meds--I'd bet that at this point he really doesn't need them.

And puppies often look bloated right after they eat but if he looks bloated all the time that shouldn't be happening. Has he been checked for parasites? Round worm in very common in puppies--and they can be infected by their mothers as soon as they are born. If he's got a load of round worm or tape worm (fleas carry tape worm passed to dogs when they bite or if a dog ingests a flea carrying tape)--those would be the most common thing but if he hasn't been checked for those at least that should happen.

I have no problem with feeding him 500 grams. I think he is now around 7 kgs. Cuz when I lift him he definitely feels heavier. I have not tried to measure his weight due to e collar and his stitches

I am going to switch to farmina N & D ancestral grain after my current food runs out. The import duties will make it lot expensive. But I will go for it. Since I have heard got reviews about it.
Have you got a link for it? This is another brand I'm not at all familiar with--the one you posted the link for actually looked like a very good food. If that feeding chart came from the farmina N & D information I'd like to see more information about company, food, processing plant and formulations.


I know closer shots make the puppies look bigger. But there is a difference in quality. You get better quality puppies in the west.
Well we've got more good breeders I think we also have our share of back yard breeders and out and out puppy mills.

Excluding the handful kennels who participate in international dog shows, all are backyard breeders. Many interbreed Doberman with other breeds. Most start take them off mother's milk at 20 days and sell them. Many don't even take then to the vet for checkup. Puppies who are on mother's milk for 60 days are healthy. General Awareness in here is low. Regulations aren't strict. You will find breeders operating out of their tiny slum homes. So I would say that quality wise India dobermans are on the lower side.
UGH--poor puppies--yeah, weaning a puppy at 20 days and selling it causes lots of problems down the line--not just physical ones--puppies from birth to 8 weeks (sort of a minimum) learn so much from their mothers and littermates it makes a big difference in how they respond, how they grow and what they are like as adults.

Here's a bit of information that might surprise you--most Dobe puppies are started on the weaning process at three or four weeks--but they also are started on puppy food at the same time so they are adequetly nourished (and often Dobe litters are so big that a bitch would not be able to support feeding a big litter on her milk alone).

And I've heard that from a few breeders I've known from various countries where there is little regulation when it comes to animals. Most of the United States has laws in place now so that puppies can not legally be sold and sent to new homes at earlier than 8 weeks. And the laws are enforced by fairly hefty fines if the breeders don't abide by the regulations. But even so there are terrible puppy mills in this country--they come to light from times to time.

Regarding posting, I will decide on that after stitches are taken out. I will post a picture of him and give an update.
Thanks, I'll look forward to it but I sincerely hope you won't use the clamp method.

Thanks for your quality posts.

Edit : India is mostly hot and humid country. High calorie and High protein diets are even hard for Indians. In cold climate, you can eat a lot as your metabolism goes up and you burn a lot of calories. So the climate too plays a role. Thankfully my dog hasn't been through an Indian summer yet.
You are welcome for the posts and I hope they are helpful.

And about the food and climate. Yes, this is true to some degree but puppies , especially large breed puppies like Dobes grow so quickly that it really does take more food in the first year to 18 months just to support all that fast growth. It's rare to see a truely overweight puppy--just growing and the exercise they should be getting to build muscle will burn a lot a calories. That's why I look at puppies daily to see if they need more or less food.

And sometimes during a growth spurt your puppy will need a lot more food than they've been eating. I've got a puppy who just turned a year and at right around 6 months when he was getting 2 meals a day and was eating 2 cups of kibble plus an egg in one meal and 2 cups of kibble plus some yogurt and a little meat in the other meal he had a growth period during which I kept increasing his food to keep up with the growth so he ended up getting over three cups of kibble per meal. I reduced the amount again as soon as he started to look a little pudgy and he's been back to 4 cups per day (2 cups per meal) for several months but I know from experience that puppies sometimes have a second big growth spurt between 12 and 18 months as well.

In general my adult dogs eat twice a day--2 cups of kibble per meal plus some extras. During the summer sometimes they need a little less if it's been hot and during the winter (because I keep the house rather cool they often need a bit more. But mostly as adult my males Dobes eat 4 cups of kibble a day split into two meals.

dobebug
 

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Food charts will vary a lot from one brand to another. I'd rather wondered about this one. Except at the very young ages the amounts seem rather off for males. And when you get into the over 1 year amounts recommended if I fed that quantity to any of my adult males at two and three years they would be rolling in fat.

I think the information that MeadowCat posted is a better way to tell--use the general recommendations on the back of food as a guidline and adjust it as necessary by looking at the puppy daily--they do change a lot day to day--and just before they enter a growth stage they may look round and roly poly--and two days later they'll look like colts--all leg and no body.



Puppies do drink a lot of water--antibiotics would not normally make him more thirsty and neither should the pain meds--but I'd take him off the pain meds--I'd bet that at this point he really doesn't need them.

And puppies often look bloated right after they eat but if he looks bloated all the time that shouldn't be happening. Has he been checked for parasites? Round worm in very common in puppies--and they can be infected by their mothers as soon as they are born. If he's got a load of round worm or tape worm (fleas carry tape worm passed to dogs when they bite or if a dog ingests a flea carrying tape)--those would be the most common thing but if he hasn't been checked for those at least that should happen.



Have you got a link for it? This is another brand I'm not at all familiar with--the one you posted the link for actually looked like a very good food. If that feeding chart came from the farmina N & D information I'd like to see more information about company, food, processing plant and formulations.




Well we've got more good breeders I think we also have our share of back yard breeders and out and out puppy mills.



UGH--poor puppies--yeah, weaning a puppy at 20 days and selling it causes lots of problems down the line--not just physical ones--puppies from birth to 8 weeks (sort of a minimum) learn so much from their mothers and littermates it makes a big difference in how they respond, how they grow and what they are like as adults.

Here's a bit of information that might surprise you--most Dobe puppies are started on the weaning process at three or four weeks--but they also are started on puppy food at the same time so they are adequetly nourished (and often Dobe litters are so big that a bitch would not be able to support feeding a big litter on her milk alone).

And I've heard that from a few breeders I've known from various countries where there is little regulation when it comes to animals. Most of the United States has laws in place now so that puppies can not legally be sold and sent to new homes at earlier than 8 weeks. And the laws are enforced by fairly hefty fines if the breeders don't abide by the regulations. But even so there are terrible puppy mills in this country--they come to light from times to time.



Thanks, I'll look forward to it but I sincerely hope you won't use the clamp method.



You are welcome for the posts and I hope they are helpful.

And about the food and climate. Yes, this is true to some degree but puppies , especially large breed puppies like Dobes grow so quickly that it really does take more food in the first year to 18 months just to support all that fast growth. It's rare to see a truely overweight puppy--just growing and the exercise they should be getting to build muscle will burn a lot a calories. That's why I look at puppies daily to see if they need more or less food.

And sometimes during a growth spurt your puppy will need a lot more food than they've been eating. I've got a puppy who just turned a year and at right around 6 months when he was getting 2 meals a day and was eating 2 cups of kibble plus an egg in one meal and 2 cups of kibble plus some yogurt and a little meat in the other meal he had a growth period during which I kept increasing his food to keep up with the growth so he ended up getting over three cups of kibble per meal. I reduced the amount again as soon as he started to look a little pudgy and he's been back to 4 cups per day (2 cups per meal) for several months but I know from experience that puppies sometimes have a second big growth spurt between 12 and 18 months as well.

In general my adult dogs eat twice a day--2 cups of kibble per meal plus some extras. During the summer sometimes they need a little less if it's been hot and during the winter (because I keep the house rather cool they often need a bit more. But mostly as adult my males Dobes eat 4 cups of kibble a day split into two meals.

dobebug
Apologies in advance for not being able to multi quote your post. Website was not loading on my android phone. So I had to turn on my laptop.

Before the surgery my puppy barely drank any water. His urine was always dark yellow. I had to add water along with the food to make him drink enough water. He is on an anti infection pill and a steroid pill named wysolone 5 mg, which split into half give two times a day. Wysolone is anti inflammatory not a pain killer. He has been prescribed some oral drops which make him drowsy. My vet also has given me anti infection and insect worm repellent spray. Also it has stopped raining and the temperature has gone up in here. He drank almost 1 litre of water at once. He urinates like 50 times a day. I am not exaggerating.


I fed him about 500 grams in a day. He couldn't finish his last meal. So after some time I added some canned chicken vegetable gravy. Then, again after some time I had to add turkey vegetable gravy to make him finish the kibble. He excreted a large amount after every meal. His stomach looked bloated and he is very lazy since the surgery. His stomach looks now. But his middle to rear part is very bulk. His neck muscles and head is tiny. He does not put weight in that region. Must be the drops which make drowsy. And he scratches the e collar a lot. Since last 3 days he scratches the ecollar continuously for minutes like a mad person. I have to wake up and calm him down. Give him some treats. Massage his head and put him to sleep. His crate is next to my bed. He does not like sleeping anywhere else.


It would be great if you provide a link to greenyouki's posting video. As I couldn't find it. The thing about backer method posting I fear it takes about 18 months for long crop ears. I don't know if I can do that for six months continuously. I will inquire about the clamp method in India itself. I will ask the vet to apply lesser weight clamps and check his ears weekly. If clamp method looks too dangerous after I have done my research. I will go backer method. If you a provide a link to the video you mentioned earlier it would be great help.


As for farmina, it is an italian company which offers low grain, ancestoral grain and grain free kibble. It has good reviews.
https://www.farmina.com/in/farmina/703-the-company.html

But I went for Arden Grange junior puppy large breed chicken and rice dog food 12kg. As it had better reviews on amazon and was less expensive.

If you are wondering about this company as well, then I will post company website link. It has good reviews.
https://www.ardengrange.com/about-us/about.html


Thanks for your time. Keep those quality posts coming.
 

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Here's the link showing how to post using backer rods, as well as a couple of others you might find helpful.
Sticky: How to: Posting Show Cropped Ears Using Backer Rod
https://www.dobermantalk.com/ear-cr...sting-show-cropped-ears-using-backer-rod.html

Ear Cropping and Aftercare: Do's and Don't's
https://www.dobermantalk.com/ear-cropping-posting/302945-ear-cropping-aftercare-do-s-don-ts.html

How to gently remove ear posts
https://www.dobermantalk.com/ear-cropping-posting/302298-how-gently-remove-ear-posts.html

But generally you are done posting by the time the dog is 6-7 months old, if you are posting correctly. With certain crops you may need to post longer, but 18 months would be an EXTREME case.

This is the link to our Puppy Corner Subforum. It's a good place to browse when you're looking for answers to puppy dilemma.

https://www.dobermantalk.com/puppy-corner/

Steroids will usually make a dog drink more, and hence pee more too. But with that much peeing coupled with not drinking much water, I would be a little concerned that he might have a urinary tract infection or something else going on. I'm assuming you're going out with him and making sure he pees every time? He may just want to be outside so is asking to go more often, or he may be squatting without producing anything. With your pup on antibiotics, of course, an infection would be unlikely, but not all antibiotics are effective against urinary tract infections. Has he always done that? If so, did you share that info with your cropping vet? You might give him a call and see if he can suggest something.
 

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Apologies in advance for not being able to multi quote your post. Website was not loading on my android phone. So I had to turn on my laptop.
No apologies necessary, it's OK.

Before the surgery my puppy barely drank any water. His urine was always dark yellow. I had to add water along with the food to make him drink enough water. He is on an anti infection pill and a steroid pill named wysolone 5 mg, which split into half give two times a day. Wysolone is anti inflammatory not a pain killer. He has been prescribed some oral drops which make him drowsy. My vet also has given me anti infection and insect worm repellent spray. Also it has stopped raining and the temperature has gone up in here. He drank almost 1 litre of water at once. He urinates like 50 times a day. I am not exaggerating.
Since the puppy was so young when you got him that might explain why he didn't drink much water--but some dogs are big water drinkers and some aren't.

The steroid (Wysolone) is why he's drinking a lot of water and peeing a lot. just from the name without researching it further it is probably closely related to (or maybe a brand name for) prednisone--a steroid which here, is used for a number of things. But one of it's main uses are to reduce swelling post surgery or injury. There is normally not a lot of swelling involved in an ear crop. I wouldn't want to keep a puppy that age on a steroid for prolonged periods of time.

And I also wouldn't want to keep any puppy but especially a Doberman puppy on the drops that are for pain reduction.


I fed him about 500 grams in a day. He couldn't finish his last meal. So after some time I added some canned chicken vegetable gravy. Then, again after some time I had to add turkey vegetable gravy to make him finish the kibble. He excreted a large amount after every meal. His stomach looked bloated and he is very lazy since the surgery. His stomach looks now. But his middle to rear part is very bulk. His neck muscles and head is tiny. He does not put weight in that region. Must be the drops which make drowsy. And he scratches the e collar a lot. Since last 3 days he scratches the ecollar continuously for minutes like a mad person. I have to wake up and calm him down. Give him some treats. Massage his head and put him to sleep. His crate is next to my bed. He does not like sleeping anywhere else.
More about feeding. I would let your puppy eat as much as he will in each meal--but I would never add anything to get him to finish more that he will eat--it's a great way to get a picky eater. Dogs (and dobes are the worst) will learn quickly to hold out for more and better stuff to be added to their normal food--and it'll drive you crazy trying to find something they will eat that they will like. And it's a good idea to pick a good food and stick with it--changing foods a lot isn't such a good way to handling feeding dogs.

So if you are going to add anything to his food add it before you give him the dish--let him eat what he can but don't try to get him to eat more--let him have the food (and I feed puppies in a crate because they are often easily distracted from the food) for about 15 minutes and if he didn't finish it then pick it up and refrigerate it until his next meal and use that as part of the next meal.

If you can, send pictures--puppies at some point often grow in parts--at the beginning of a growth spurt one of the things that often happens is that the puppies rear end in much taller than the front--normal growth pattern for quadrupeds. Eventually all of the pieces catch up with each other until the next fast growth period.

I don't think your puppy is actually lazy--he's drugged. But even if he wasn't on those drops puppies that age sleep a lot and he sleeps even more because of the drops.

The ears are starting to heal--they itch--the e-collar is irritating--it probably itches too--I would have taken the e-collar off when I got him home, trimmed his back nail so they were blunt and couldn't do much damage if he did scratch (and the raw edge is already covered with tape so he's not going to do much damage. (And I'll say again--nothing should be covering the raw, sutured ear edge) but most of my puppies have learned very quickly NOT to scratch their ears--the first time they make contact and it hurts they figure it out.

The steroid (Wysolone) is why he's drinking a lot of water and peeing a lot. And he'll continue to drink a lot and pee a lot until he isn't taking it. But don't restrict his water intake while he's being medicated.

And when I have a puppy, there is a crate next to my bed and that's where the puppy sleeps--that way if he needs an emergency trip out to go potty in the middle of the night I'll hear him. That crate stays until he's old enough and trained enough to be house trained and he graduates to a big soft dog bed to sleep in. The year old puppy I have right now is still has the crate--the door stays open all the time and there is a dog bed--he can sleep where he chooses and he sometimes sleeps in the crate and sometimes on the dog bed.

It would be great if you provide a link to greenyouki's posting video. As I couldn't find it. The thing about backer method posting I fear it takes about 18 months for long crop ears. I don't know if I can do that for six months continuously. I will inquire about the clamp method in India itself. I will ask the vet to apply lesser weight clamps and check his ears weekly. If clamp method looks too dangerous after I have done my research. I will go backer method. If you a provide a link to the video you mentioned earlier it would be great help.
I am the perfect idiot about links and people have tried to teach me--but I've failed learning. But I bet I can get some one to post that link for you.

Mel or greenkouki--could you post a link for greenkouki's posting video and the one for removing posts painlessly? Thanks much.

Well, please don't let your vet put clamps on until we have a chance to see the ears--what a long crop is from one puppy to another also depends on the size of the ear--and some dogs have very good cartilage and a good ear set. And while I've had the occasional dog who had posted ears for many months I've had those that only needed posting until they were around six months. Also see if you can find a picture of a puppy with clamps on (in India or any place else and link that.


As for farmina, it is an italian company which offers low grain, ancestoral grain and grain free kibble. It has good reviews.
https://www.farmina.com/in/farmina/703-the-company.html

But I went for Arden Grange junior puppy large breed chicken and rice dog food 12kg. As it had better reviews on amazon and was less expensive.

If you are wondering about this company as well, then I will post company website link. It has good reviews.
https://www.ardengrange.com/about-us/about.html


Thanks for your time. Keep those quality posts coming.
The Farmina information was much more complete and it looked like another company that I would trust.

The Arden Grange not so much . But mostly that was because their information wasn't as complete--you could contact them for more information but I like to be able to see the technical info on feeds posted for everyone to see.

So I'll just give you some stuff about food--some from recent studies and some that have been around for years.

Don't feed grain free--it now appears that dogs need micro ingredients that come from grain (not lentils) for complete nutrition.

One of the things I saw in Farmina's products which, in general looked good was their adult fish and potato. Potato isn't really a substitute for grain and some dogs don't do well on it. The Purina Pro Plan that I feed is fish based (salmon) and the carb is rice and barley primarily. I've rarely had a dog that didn't do well on that.

What I have (consistently) had poor luck with are any of the lamb based kibbles. I've tried them occasionally and have had pretty much the same results every time. The dogs coats started looking bad, dry and dull and it was very hard to keep them in good weight. And recently there was information about digestability and probably the fact that lamb is one of the least digestable proteins was probably why the dull coats and problems with keeping weight on the dog. As far as digestability goes fish is highest and chicken is next.

There's your book for the day--keep asking question--we've got lot of answers around here.

dobebug
 

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Oops—sorry, AP. I missed the part that he was also drinking a lot. What goes in has to come out sometime. So forget the urinary tract thing; I'm guessing it's probably the steroid then.

Bug, if you're talking about the posts I think you are, they're in the post above yours. I bet it took you so long to type your book >:) we cross-posted.
 

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No apologies necessary, it's OK.



Since the puppy was so young when you got him that might explain why he didn't drink much water--but some dogs are big water drinkers and some aren't.

The steroid (Wysolone) is why he's drinking a lot of water and peeing a lot. just from the name without researching it further it is probably closely related to (or maybe a brand name for) prednisone--a steroid which here, is used for a number of things. But one of it's main uses are to reduce swelling post surgery or injury. There is normally not a lot of swelling involved in an ear crop. I wouldn't want to keep a puppy that age on a steroid for prolonged periods of time.

And I also wouldn't want to keep any puppy but especially a Doberman puppy on the drops that are for pain reduction.




More about feeding. I would let your puppy eat as much as he will in each meal--but I would never add anything to get him to finish more that he will eat--it's a great way to get a picky eater. Dogs (and dobes are the worst) will learn quickly to hold out for more and better stuff to be added to their normal food--and it'll drive you crazy trying to find something they will eat that they will like. And it's a good idea to pick a good food and stick with it--changing foods a lot isn't such a good way to handling feeding dogs.

So if you are going to add anything to his food add it before you give him the dish--let him eat what he can but don't try to get him to eat more--let him have the food (and I feed puppies in a crate because they are often easily distracted from the food) for about 15 minutes and if he didn't finish it then pick it up and refrigerate it until his next meal and use that as part of the next meal.

If you can, send pictures--puppies at some point often grow in parts--at the beginning of a growth spurt one of the things that often happens is that the puppies rear end in much taller than the front--normal growth pattern for quadrupeds. Eventually all of the pieces catch up with each other until the next fast growth period.

I don't think your puppy is actually lazy--he's drugged. But even if he wasn't on those drops puppies that age sleep a lot and he sleeps even more because of the drops.

The ears are starting to heal--they itch--the e-collar is irritating--it probably itches too--I would have taken the e-collar off when I got him home, trimmed his back nail so they were blunt and couldn't do much damage if he did scratch (and the raw edge is already covered with tape so he's not going to do much damage. (And I'll say again--nothing should be covering the raw, sutured ear edge) but most of my puppies have learned very quickly NOT to scratch their ears--the first time they make contact and it hurts they figure it out.

The steroid (Wysolone) is why he's drinking a lot of water and peeing a lot. And he'll continue to drink a lot and pee a lot until he isn't taking it. But don't restrict his water intake while he's being medicated.

And when I have a puppy, there is a crate next to my bed and that's where the puppy sleeps--that way if he needs an emergency trip out to go potty in the middle of the night I'll hear him. That crate stays until he's old enough and trained enough to be house trained and he graduates to a big soft dog bed to sleep in. The year old puppy I have right now is still has the crate--the door stays open all the time and there is a dog bed--he can sleep where he chooses and he sometimes sleeps in the crate and sometimes on the dog bed.



I am the perfect idiot about links and people have tried to teach me--but I've failed learning. But I bet I can get some one to post that link for you.

Mel or greenkouki--could you post a link for greenkouki's posting video and the one for removing posts painlessly? Thanks much.

Well, please don't let your vet put clamps on until we have a chance to see the ears--what a long crop is from one puppy to another also depends on the size of the ear--and some dogs have very good cartilage and a good ear set. And while I've had the occasional dog who had posted ears for many months I've had those that only needed posting until they were around six months. Also see if you can find a picture of a puppy with clamps on (in India or any place else and link that.




The Farmina information was much more complete and it looked like another company that I would trust.

The Arden Grange not so much . But mostly that was because their information wasn't as complete--you could contact them for more information but I like to be able to see the technical info on feeds posted for everyone to see.

So I'll just give you some stuff about food--some from recent studies and some that have been around for years.

Don't feed grain free--it now appears that dogs need micro ingredients that come from grain (not lentils) for complete nutrition.

One of the things I saw in Farmina's products which, in general looked good was their adult fish and potato. Potato isn't really a substitute for grain and some dogs don't do well on it. The Purina Pro Plan that I feed is fish based (salmon) and the carb is rice and barley primarily. I've rarely had a dog that didn't do well on that.

What I have (consistently) had poor luck with are any of the lamb based kibbles. I've tried them occasionally and have had pretty much the same results every time. The dogs coats started looking bad, dry and dull and it was very hard to keep them in good weight. And recently there was information about digestability and probably the fact that lamb is one of the least digestable proteins was probably why the dull coats and problems with keeping weight on the dog. As far as digestability goes fish is highest and chicken is next.

There's your book for the day--keep asking question--we've got lot of answers around here.

dobebug
Well I cancelled Andre Grange order after reading your post. Did some more online research.


I am thinking of mixing raw chicken, veggies and fruits with his dry kibble. I feed him raw chicken and raw eggs without kibble for days long before the surgery. I swear he looked muscular with low fat. Only 2 days of raw chicken and raw eggs did that to him. I am thinking of switching to BARF diet in future after I run out of my current dry kibble stock. Good thing about my puppy is that he isn't lactose intolerant.


Unfortunately I can't find any clamp surgery photos or videos. Or nor I have heard any vet doing that. My regular vet did not crop his ears. I went to another vet. My regular vet was an academic fellow. Head of a medical university. Quit his job and then started his clinic. He is 67 years old and is a human encylopedia. He advised me not to abruptly stop the steriod Wysolone like my surgeon suggested. He asked me to taper him off.

And when his stitches are off, I will post his pics. My puppy did not have big ears. So I thought of long crop. I had consulted another surgeon and even booked an appointment then I wanted a medium crop. But the surgeon was less qualified so I cancelled my appointment. I think the anti depressants made me feel euphoric and I took the long crop decision.

I am not going to make any hasty decision. I will consult as experts online and irl before making the decision. Clamp method does look painful no doubt. And he will be on painkillers for 2 months. But the things I like about my regular vet he is very honest and a man of principles. He said that he will only do the surgery after the puppy turns 3.5 months old. I tried to convince him to do it early. Even offered him 50% more the amount. But he did not budge.

When I asked him when he did his last cropping and clamp posting. He said it was back in 2013. He could have lied but he did not. He told me he cropped the puppy when he was 4 months old. And got his ears permanently erect in 1.5 months. I am not going to ask for proof. Because I know he is going to feel offended.

But like I said I won't ruin my puppies ears by taking rash decision.
 

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Oops—sorry, AP. I missed the part that he was also drinking a lot. What goes in has to come out sometime. So forget the urinary tract thing; I'm guessing it's probably the steroid then.

Bug, if you're talking about the posts I think you are, they're in the post above yours. I bet it took you so long to type your book >:) we cross-posted.
I saw that when I 'sent' the book--but i figured everyone would understand that you figured out that he needed that information before he asked.

Thanks for doing that--those links are just invaluable for novice owners and there is a bunch of really good information in them. (especially about bitey puppies.)

I looked at the part of the post where he gave the name of the steroid and thought--if this isn't prednisone it's a close relative. There are tons of queries from lots of people who find out here the the big side effect of pred and any of it's close chemical relative is drink a lot and pee a lot.

It did take awhile--needed coffee to do it and took one break to wash dog dishes after Joey the Loner got his breakfast. and another when I was searching for food for me--I'm putting off going to the store. I've got lots of food and I have lots of some stuff (like ham--because I must have been expecting company when I invested in a BIG marusca when they were cheap and finally cooked it--but I've run out of bread twice now (ham sammiches, you know). I guess I'll have ham and eggs (not green ones though) tonight. And if the weather cools even a little I'll make a pot a navy bean soup (in the crock pot and I'll sit it in the garage so the garage which already gets overheated can suffer and those of us that don't hang out in the garage will be happier. And I've got a really good recipe for lima bean and mushroom caserrole--but I've never tried to make it in a crock pot--and it cooks a long time in the oven

Oh oh--now I've done it--I bogarted the puppy forum and babbled on about the heat and my menu for days to come. I apologize to all of the people who were trying to get answers to puppy questions.

I'll go away quietly now...

dobebug (AKA ABTLH--but only on the Chicken thread--also known as the Girls are Outside?) (I think that's it real name).
 

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Well I cancelled Andre Grange order after reading your post. Did some more online research.
Research is always a good idea--Looks like practically all the dog foods that are available are pretty much imports? The first two you considered. The Smart Heart which is a Thai import? looked very good and so did the Farmina which is Italian but they use information from Engish manufacturers.

I am thinking of mixing raw chicken, veggies and fruits with his dry kibble. I feed him raw chicken and raw eggs without kibble for days long before the surgery. I swear he looked muscular with low fat. Only 2 days of raw chicken and raw eggs did that to him. I am thinking of switching to BARF diet in future after I run out of my current dry kibble stock. Good thing about my puppy is that he isn't lactose intolerant.
I don't feed raw--I nothing against it but I really don't have enough freezer space to get enough variety of neat fir a proper raw diet. And you need to do enough research to make sure that the diet is balanced. Unless you were to do enough research to make sure that he had enough variety in his meals for raw to be properly balanced I think you might find it better to feed kibble and if you wanted to add raw to that you could do that. I feed mostly kibble--and I do feed eggs but i hard boil them--it's just more convenient because the dogs have to share with me--I make a lot of sandwiches and salads that I put the eggs in. I boil them a dozen at a time--take about 10 minutes and the they go in the refrigerator. And I give the dogs raw treats, chicken hearts and gizzards are popular and I also buy small fish (any kind--mostly what I find are smelt. I freeze those and give them raw (and frozen) and he thinks they are some sort of fish popsicle.

But if you are really going to feed a fully -raw diet--there are better raw diets than the old BARF diet. Dogs need muscle meat, bone, and organ meat in a specific ration. We have people on the forum who can give you lots of information. Ummm Cressrb feeds raw I think Bonnie, Would you talk a bit about raw diets and can you suggest a newer book that is good--I don't think the BARF diet book ever got into the nuts an bolt and making sure you were feeding a balanced diet. And if anyone else wants to join the raw diet part of (or any other part for that matter) it'd be good to get someone talking about raw diet then me since my knowlege is very basic.


Unfortunately I can't find any clamp surgery photos or videos. Or nor I have heard any vet doing that. My regular vet did not crop his ears. I went to another vet. My regular vet was an academic fellow. Head of a medical university. Quit his job and then started his clinic. He is 67 years old and is a human encylopedia. He advised me not to abruptly stop the steriod Wysolone like my surgeon suggested. He asked me to taper him off.
Yes, steroids should actually be started slowly and tapered off at the end. Good advice from your regular vet.

And when his stitches are off, I will post his pics. My puppy did not have big ears. So I thought of long crop. I had consulted another surgeon and even booked an appointment then I wanted a medium crop. But the surgeon was less qualified so I cancelled my appointment. I think the anti depressants made me feel euphoric and I took the long crop decision.

I am not going to make any hasty decision. I will consult as experts online and irl before making the decision. Clamp method does look painful no doubt. And he will be on painkillers for 2 months. But the things I like about my regular vet he is very honest and a man of principles. He said that he will only do the surgery after the puppy turns 3.5 months old. I tried to convince him to do it early. Even offered him 50% more the amount. But he did not budge.

When I asked him when he did his last cropping and clamp posting. He said it was back in 2013. He could have lied but he did not. He told me he cropped the puppy when he was 4 months old. And got his ears permanently erect in 1.5 months. I am not going to ask for proof. Because I know he is going to feel offended.

But like I said I won't ruin my puppies ears by taking rash decision.
I'm glad to hear that-and I'm sorry you have a depression and are on meds for it--I've had friend who had clinical depression--a couple were very bad and my friends were in big trouble and it took a long time for them to get straightened out.

You'll like this--one of them got a puppy on the advice of his dlinicion--he said that by the time the puppy was 10 weeks old he told me he didn't have time to be depressed because the puppy was so much work.

And then we both laughed about it--because it's true raising a puppy and trying to teach them to grow up to be a good dog is really a time consuming business.

Good luck and I'll sound like a broken record but we are always here to help--I must go I have a cat telling me it 6:00pm and he expects his dinner!!!

Yes, yes, Leon I'm coming to feed you.

dobebug
 
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