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I just got my doberman puppy!!! His name is Kash. He's five months old. He was brought back by his first family and we were able to get him. He's an absolute joy! Super sweet, smart, and fun.

His ears are what we believe to be done. According to the breeder his ears have been standing for a couple of weeks now, and they've been standing for two days since he's been back. The only time that they "fell" was after a nap and it returned to being perfectly straight after 10-15 minutes. When he runs the only parts of the ears that "bounce" are the very tips I'd say top 1/5th of the ear. Any thoughts? We were thinking of posting them again for good measure but based on the info it might just be overdoing it.

Looking for advice on a couple things though. First and most importantly I am looking for a good vet that has dobe experience. I live in CT by Westport and Norwalk. I googled a couple but good reviews or not not every vet is equipped and understands the health needs of a dobe.

When it comes to training Kash he has been great... when I am holding treats. He listens extremely well when a reward is in play, but I've been struggling to get him to sit/down when there is no incentive. He comes immediately when I call him and he waits at doors when I tell him so I can go first. Just looking to get him to be a little more pro active when treats aren't around. Any tips?

Lastly, he's very strong willed on the leash. I purchased a harness as to not hurt his esophagus. What we've done so far is when he pulls ahead we immediately stop him say no and prevent him from going forward. Then, we only begin to walk again until he stops pulling on the leash and were side by side. It's very tedious but I'm hoping consistency will pay off.

I also got him an elk antler that has been split in half. Im mixed on how I feel about it because many have said they've been great while others are afraid they may damage his teeth. I only let him have it for short periods of time.

Am I missing anything, or is there anything else you all have found to be helpful.

Couple pics below more will be coming!
 

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HI! Welcome to DT from Colorado!

Yes to what VZ says! :2smile:

Changing directions rather than just stopping is what seems to work best for me. If he pulls ahead and puts any tension on the leash, you immediately turn on your heels and head off the other way; if he goes left, you go right and so on; keep it snappy. You don't need to say anything negative to him—the point is that he learns to pay attention to where you are moving; that's his job on a leash.

Are you planning to participate in some obedience classes with him (some kind of formal teaching, I mean—maybe it's virtual these days??) I think at his age that would be a good thing for you guys, and it's a wonderful way to build a bond.
 

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I would expect his ears to fall around 6-7 months. I HOPE that isn't the case for you, but if it happens don't be too surprised.
 

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I would expect his ears to fall around 6-7 months. I HOPE that isn't the case for you, but if it happens don't be too surprised.
I agree with Fal , I would not rely on the words ' Think " they are done - if they go down , then it will take lots of time to Try and get them to re-stand , If mine - I think I would keep posting for another month , then look at them . But thats just me thinking out loud :grin2:

BTW -- Welcome from Indiana !
 

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Congratulations!

To pick upon what ECIN and falnfenix wrote ^^^^. In my opinion, you should really keep posting Kash's ears. He has a daily long crop. There's a good chance that the will fall at some point and you will have much better results if you keep posting now as opposed to playing "catch-up" i a month or so.

Best to you and your boy

John Lichtwardt
Portland OR
 

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Welcome to Kash!

As far as training, I highly, highly recommend getting into a class. They can teach you how to teach him :) Remember that he's not stubborn, or strong willed...he's simply a puppy doing what comes naturally to dogs. It takes a lot of patience and repetition to train a dog, and a lot of reinforcement!

Walking on a leash is a hard skill to teach. Stopping, turning around...those things are great, but are you reinforcing him for being where you want him to be? Lots and lots of treats for being in the position you want will make it much more rewarding for him to be there, than for him to be out at the end of the leash, which is far more natural for him. Walking at our pace, next to us, is really, really unnatural for a Dobe!

Again, definitely get into a class. Local is great if you can (at least, that works better for me), but if you are a good online learner, the Fenzi Academy has great classes (https://www.fenzidogsportsacademy.com/) and so does Online Dog Training University (https://onlinedogu.com/)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I currently have some Torbot skin adhesive and the Scholl's mole foam pads. If I post them how do you recommend cleaning them? Alcohol and cotton ball? Lastly do you believe I should connect them or just let them stand naturally with them posted, since they already stand well.

Congratulations!

To pick upon what ECIN and falnfenix wrote ^^^^. In my opinion, you should really keep posting Kash's ears. He has a daily long crop. There's a good chance that the will fall at some point and you will have much better results if you keep posting now as opposed to playing "catch-up" i a month or so.

Best to you and your boy

John Lichtwardt
Portland OR
 

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rileymatthews, that is exciting! I am hoping to be right behind you with a pup soon. Can you share where you found Kash? Good luck and I look forward to seeing him grow!
 
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I currently have some Torbot skin adhesive and the Scholl's mole foam pads. If I post them how do you recommend cleaning them? Alcohol and cotton ball? Lastly do you believe I should connect them or just let them stand naturally with them posted, since they already stand well.
What I have found best to use is Uni - Solve , I got it at the local Pharmacy , but lately they can get it and just received my order from Amazon today .

Now the other question - I will be honest here , there are others that can give better advice than I and will leave this to them , It boils down to personal preference , I use full posts and a brace with our little girl I'm posting right now - but she has a show crop and I just think its working best for her . Lots on here do not use a brace . Our 5 year old Dober male we have - as he go older - I use what they call a half post , but he did not have the show crop . The half posts may work good for you since the ears are standing good and he will like them lots better than using a full pushed down in his ears .

Like I said , others will jump in here and give you advice

Best of luck

Doc
 

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By this age we no longer braced. Just posted the ears.
 
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I currently have some Torbot skin adhesive and the Scholl's mole foam pads. If I post them how do you recommend cleaning them? Alcohol and cotton ball? Lastly do you believe I should connect them or just let them stand naturally with them posted, since they already stand well.
Have we actually seen any pictures of your pup? To see how well the ears are standing and how long they are?

Personally I don't use the mole foam method at any point in posting unless the crop is very short. (Like Cane Corso short).

I use detergent and water to clean ears. If they have a lot of adhesive from prior postings on them I remove that first with Uni-Solve, then clean the ear with detergent (something like Dawn) and water--inside and out and then rinse with water--inside an out. Let dry and do a final wipe down with alcohol--IF there are no open sores--alcohol stings like the devil if there is any place that there is a break in the skin.

I don't generally use a brace except on very young puppies who have very long crops--but to a large extend that's a matter of personal preferance--some people always use a brace--some, like me, don't.

But I also don't continue to post if there is no sign of the ear looking week after a few hours (I gather this isn't true of your pup--some pictures would help a lot with giving this kind of advice)--and when I'm checking to see if I think a puppies ears are really "done" I take the posts down in the morning and make sure they are standing through the day and are still standing after a night unposted as well.

I've had puppies who's ears were "done" as young as 4 months (after two 4 day long postings) and that puppy had a very long show crop. And I've had puppies who had ears (or in one case one ear) that weren't standing until they were over 18 months. So much depends on the cartilage, the crop and keeping the ears properly posted as you go along.

And not about ears at all--but about teaching a dog to walk nicely on leash I agree with MeadowCat and Melbrod--I start with very short walks and if the puppy is pulling or lagging behind I don't say anything to him (I really don't want to make him eternally wrong by saying "no" this and "no" that so I say nothing and stop briefly and go the opposite direction. And I continue to do that every time he and I are at opposite ends of the leash. And I do carry treats--all kinds of treats and always some that are really big exciting special treats that he only gets when he has managed to do what I'm trying to teach him to do (gets near me on his own without tension on the leash._

But it is a process and it takes time and there's not really effective way to shorten the amount of time it takes. As they get the hang of what ever it is you are training for--then you start to fade out the treats.

Good luck with your puppy.

dobebug

PS I just looked at your first post and realized there are pictures--I'd like to see something closer up of the ears standing from front and side.

As far as the tips bouncing when he's moving--very long show crops take months for the cartilage to harden completely and most dogs with really long crops find that when the dog is moving (running or trotting) the tips may continue to bounce--as long as they aren't 'wilting' and tipping down when the dog is standing--they are fine. Or at least that's when I usually stop posting entirely.

Ditch the antlers--too many cases of broken teeth from all kinds of antler chews--deer, elk (and moose but I've only seen deer and elk available). Check some of the older threads posted here on DT about appropriate toys for Dobes who are notoriously hard chewers.

dobebug
 

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If you do decide to use a brace, make sure you are putting it down low as close to the head as you can get it. Also be sure it is not pulling the ears in toward each other past vertical. You don't want to end up with ears that look like this /_\ rather than this \_/
 
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