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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Cyber (male) used to be on Inukshuk 30/25, but our vet advised that we switch to Purina Pro Plan large breed puppy (chicken and rice). We feed our 5 month old about 4 cups of the pro plan. He's 50 lbs (23.1 kgs). For anyone else with 5-6 month olds, how much do they weigh?
Dog Dog breed Carnivore Collar Floor

Also - this tether was temporary, he's usually with me or in the crate
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Just an fyi, euro bloodlines should not be any bigger than US as their standard is nearly identical. Hopefully your breeder isn't trying to breed dogs that are over standard as that's not good for the overall health of the breed.

I would also look into switching foods as Hill's Science diet isn't really that good of a food to be feeding.

Lastly, I'm not sure who told you to feed goat's milk but I'd stop that as well. It's great for newborn puppies needing extra nutrients but it's not good for growing puppies and can lead to knuckling over and/or pano.
Never knew that about the goat milk!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
He looks a good weight in your pictures.

Just a tip, though--if you're going to use a bridge, make sure it is loose enough that his ears are not pulled in. They should be at about 11 and 1, or 10 and 2 \ _ / or at least vertical | _ |, not pointing inwardly at the top. / _ \
I think you’re replying to roberthu526 right ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Thanks! I actually took the postings off. The ears have been standing on their own for a few days now.
I actually did wanna ask, our pup isn’t anywhere near done posting and we wanna post at least past 6.5 months, but once they’re standing pretty well, how do you know they’re done done? I’ve seen a lot of conflicting opinions about it
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Is there more of a preference/recommendation between Pro Plan Sensitive Skin & Stomach or Pro Plan large breed chicken&rice? Also, he can go straight to the adult food at 6 months? It doesn't have to be an ALS food?
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
The "Large Breed" part of the Pro Plan line is relatively new--and I feed the same thing I've always fed the regular ProPlan line (used to be called "Focus"--now labed something like "Special..." I prefer the Sensitive Skin & Stomach (Salmon and rice formula) to any of the chicken formulas--but I've fed both.

And I've been switching puppies to adult food at around 5 months (unless, like one of my pups, they had been weaned on to the an adult formula as soon as they were past eating gruel.)

As far as I can tell (based on the fact than when I started feeding ProPlan there wasn't an ALS --only puppy or adult--and I went from a puppy formula directly to adult and fed it throughout the life of the dog so I asked a vet who kind of specialized in nutrition about that and he said that most of the ALS formulas were virtually identical in the base formulation and differed mostly in the recommendations for how much to feed the dog. So I stopped worrying about it.

dobebug
Do you find that you have to feed more adult food than puppy food? Or less? (in terms of cups). Since our pup is kind of thin I'm wondering if switching to adult will require him to eat more or less of it
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 · (Edited)
Is this the sensitive stomach food that was talked about - which may be what I would switch to when he's 6 mo old (if it works out):
Felidae Carnivore Lion Liver Big cats


He's currently on a 50/50 mix of the Pro Plan Large Breed Puppy and the Purina Gastroenteric food because his stools weren't great recently. We want to switch to a steady food that will work well for him. He eats 3x per day and gets about 1600 calories daily, and is still somewhat thin. Not overly, but I see his ribs sometimes when he sleeps.
Dog Comfort Dog breed Carnivore Couch
 

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Discussion Starter · #37 ·
How old did you say your puppy was? If he's under 6 months (because of what the teething does to ears) I wouldn't be leaving the ears unposted to grow hair back.

The hair will grow back under tape (and if you use Uni-Solve to remove the posting and taping you won't pull any hair out and using a lot of powder to make removing tape easier but also may affect how well tape stays in place when the ear is posted.

And over a lot of years of posting puppy ears I've found that it's much more effective to keep posting at least through six months (that's the point where most of the very active changes go on when teeth are being formed and baby teeth are being shed)--earlier than that you often find ears doing odd thing and/or drooping and it's really hard to get puppies who have been out of posts for even short periods of time to accept being posted again.

dobebug
^^ Yes oops forgot to say - if the powder affects your taping then don’t use it! Unisolve is probably better - just personally don’t have a whole lot of it in my area
 

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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
When you said "accept being posted again", do you mean allowing the ears to stand straighter again or they're going to become more unruly and irritated when trying to post/ have something wrapped around their ears again?
The reason I asked is because I have my 6-month-old pup back to full posting yesterday after noticing his left ear not standing as straight as the right. He was out of post for 3 days and had half-rod postings 5 days after (before going back to full postings). That is more than a week not having something pinned inside his ear. I noticed he was shaking his head more than usual yesterday and also this morning. Do you think he is just getting used to his full post again and not an early indication of ears infection?
Pretty sure what was meant is that after puppies are unposted, they prefer the feeling of free ears, so they’re going to be upset if you resume posting again after they’ve been out of posts for a while
 
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