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Ear posting. Dog shaking head

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K
Does anyone else’s pup shake their head and get really stressed after posting their ears up?
we just finally reposted our pups ears since they’ve fully healed and she keeps shaking head head around and running around like she’s really stressed out to have them on. I don’t want her to feel over stressed with them. Do they eventually get over this feeling after some time? We posted it up the ear kit she came with when we when we picked her up from the breede. We didn’t tighten up the tape too much to prevent cutting off circulation. We didn’t do the best job as it’s our first time actually doing it but I don’t think we did too bad. It just stresses me out seeing her uncomfortable lol
Any advice or input is appreciated. No hard feelings with criticism on the job. Thanks
Dog Carnivore Comfort Working animal Dog breed
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melbrod
She's very cute.

That kind of rack isn't really used much anymore. It's uncomfortable, for one thing--that's probably why she's shaking her head so much.

I'd take a look at our tutorial for another method a lot of us use.

www.dobermantalk.com

How to: Posting Show Cropped Ears Using Backer Rod

Everyone has a little bit different way of posting ears. This is the method I use and I'm posting my 4 month old puppy as an example. This should work on younger as well as older puppies, although you may need to adjust the backer rod size 3/8, 1/2, or 5/8" depending on your pup's age. I...
www.dobermantalk.com www.dobermantalk.com

If she is still bothering with the rack at this time of night, I personally would go ahead and take it down, go out and get the materials you need tomorrow and try the backer rod method.

Now, you do need to know that even with that method, you may get a little bit of head shaking, though usually they adjust quite well. If they are still shaking their head a lot, that generally means that you don't have the backer rod seated deeply enough in the ears. It may take you a few attempts to feel reasonably comfortable about it--you'll feel all thumbs at first. But after a few postings, you'll have the hang of it.

It's getting late in terms of folks here responding to you tonight--tomorrow more folks will chime in. But keep asking questions, post pictures of your post jobs, if you'd like, and we can see if we can give you tips to make the process a little easier.
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melbrod said:
She's very cute.

That kind of rack isn't really used much anymore. It's uncomfortable, for one thing--that's probably why she's shaking her head so much.

I'd take a look at our tutorial for another method a lot of us use.

www.dobermantalk.com

How to: Posting Show Cropped Ears Using Backer Rod

Everyone has a little bit different way of posting ears. This is the method I use and I'm posting my 4 month old puppy as an example. This should work on younger as well as older puppies, although you may need to adjust the backer rod size 3/8, 1/2, or 5/8" depending on your pup's age. I...
www.dobermantalk.com www.dobermantalk.com

If she is still bothering with the rack at this time of night, I personally would go ahead and take it down, go out and get the materials you need tomorrow and try the backer rod method.

Now, you do need to know that even with that method, you may get a little bit of head shaking, though usually they adjust quite well. If they are still shaking their head a lot, that generally means that you don't have the backer rod seated deeply enough in the ears. It may take you a few attempts to feel reasonably comfortable about it--you'll feel all thumbs at first. But after a few postings, you'll have the hang of it.

It's getting late in terms of folks here responding to you tonight--tomorrow more folks will chime in. But keep asking questions, post pictures of your post jobs, if you'd like, and we can see if we can give you tips to make the process a little easier.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I keep looking at the “job” I did and it doesn’t seem right. Most likely will take it down. It looks very uncomfortable for me just looking at it. I have seen plenty of vids for the backer rod method but will check this one out as well. My main issue is the fear of not doing it right but like you said the more I do it the more comfortable I’ll feel with posting.
thanks once again
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D
I don't think you did a bad job but as Melbrod said--those racks (any variety of them--there are many) are uncomfortable for the puppy--the backer rod method and it's variations that Melbrod linked for you are much easier on the puppy.

But we can give you a lot of on line help with posting--so stay in touch--and it really is one of the things where practice does make perfect.

dobebug
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K
I know it’s late but I hope someone can give me some criticism on my first ear lost using the backer rod method. I hope I didn’t too bad for the first time. I followed the instructions from the post you guys provided. They do kinda shift a bit when she moves her head. And I had to make an attempt at the bridge cuz I feel the post were piling her ears back. Also noticing the weight of the posts are still pulling her ears back a bit instead of standing straight up.
Dog Jaw Dog breed Ear Carnivore
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K
Nvm post came out her ear. Think the rod was too thick so the weight was pulling her ears back. Will attempt again
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spocksdad
KFLO92, nice try for first time! Many times puppies will shake heads if posts are not inserted down all the way into ear and are loose. Before insertion, trim bottom end of backer rod with double bevel to shape it like a funnel. This will aide with insertion fully to base of ear. Cover end with gauze (some use cotton ball) to cushion before "screwing" (twisting) into ear when inserting. Ear canal makes a 90 degree turn, so you can't damage eardrum. Also note - the bridge goes down on ears as close to head as possible w/o touching.

For our shaky head, high energy puppy, we used the Modified Backer Rod Glue-In method for posting as taught to us by our breeder.
If you use this method, you'll need LOTS of Torbots glue, Unisolve remover and Baby Q-Tips. This method makes posts harder to remove, but won't shake out. (y)
Modified Backer Rod with Glue-in ear Method. | Doberman Forum : Doberman Breed Dog Forums (dobermantalk.com)
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greenkouki
I would recommend using smaller backer rod, 3/8" size, so you can get the post deeper down into the ear. Often puppies shake their posts because something is loose, and when you use too large of backer rod it's loose feeling for them. This looseness is also what causes sores as the post moves around and rubs the tissue raw.
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greenkouki said:
I would recommend using smaller backer rod, 3/8" size, so you can get the post deeper down into the ear. Often puppies shake their posts because something is loose, and when you use too large of backer rod it's loose feeling for them. This looseness is also what causes sores as the post moves around and rubs the tissue raw.
Click to expand...
They were 3/8”😩 . I bought 2 different sized backer rods (3/8” & 1/2) to make sure they were small enough for her ear and to save an extra trip back to the store.
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D
How many stiffening wraps of duct tape did you use. From what I can see of the post it looks much larger than 3/8's When making the posts be careful to not increase the size of the bottom of the post so it ends up not sliding into the ear canal--needs to seat at the very bottom. And I don't like gauze for padding the bottom of the post--because it's coarsely woven it can be irritating. I use cotton (not a cotton ball--a tiny little piece of cotton pulled off of a ball--just enough to fit on the very base--held in place with one wrap of tape).

And if the post is properly seated in the ear you need to start the first wrap of tape as far down on the post as you can get it--and it should be aimed up--around--and back down to end up stuck to where the tape was first started. Your taping started too high and it really looks like the post itself is too fat. Add a taper to the bottom of the post if her ear canal is really that small that a 3/8" post looks huge in it.

Go and recheck the photo's on greenkouki's instruction on how to post with backer rod.

Practice will help and keep the bridge down as close to the top of the head as possible. But you do need to make sure that the posts are actually all the way down in the ear canal.

dobebug
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dobebug said:
How many stiffening wraps of duct tape did you use. From what I can see of the post it looks much larger than 3/8's When making the posts be careful to not increase the size of the bottom of the post so it ends up not sliding into the ear canal--needs to seat at the very bottom. And I don't like gauze for padding the bottom of the post--because it's coarsely woven it can be irritating. I use cotton (not a cotton ball--a tiny little piece of cotton pulled off of a ball--just enough to fit on the very base--held in place with one wrap of tape).

And if the post is properly seated in the ear you need to start the first wrap of tape as far down on the post as you can get it--and it should be aimed up--around--and back down to end up stuck to where the tape was first started. Your taping started too high and it really looks like the post itself is too fat. Add a taper to the bottom of the post if her ear canal is really that small that a 3/8" post looks huge in it.

Go and recheck the photo's on greenkouki's instruction on how to post with backer rod.

Practice will help and keep the bridge down as close to the top of the head as possible. But you do need to make sure that the posts are actually all the way down in the ear canal.

dobebug
Click to expand...
I just wrapped it once with the zip ties and then wrapped it one more time for the extra stiffness. Basically followed the instructions step by step from the tutorial posted above.
I’m going to give it another try today. And hope for the better. IfI can’t get it down I’ll most likely just have a vet post them up and see I’m person how they do it and then go from there.
appreciate the feed back
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D
Let me warn you that sometimes even the really great ear croppers don't do much posting and the only ones I've ever known who do really good postings either breed a cropped breed and crop their own dogs and post them

Or sometimes they have a tech who has had so much experience posting ears that those posts are great.

One of the other things that helps when you are trying to post ears--since the Zonas is only available right now in 2" split that so you have 1" tape--you'll find it a lot easier to work with. Then taper the bottom of the post a little and make sure you are starting the first wrap as far down on the post as you can get it--it should be started where you can just begin to see the post emerging from the base of the ear.

Posting get easier and you'll get better at it the more posting you do.

dobebug
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dobebug said:
Let me warn you that sometimes even the really great ear croppers don't do much posting and the only ones I've ever known who do really good postings either breed a cropped breed and crop their own dogs and post them

Or sometimes they have a tech who has had so much experience posting ears that those posts are great.

One of the other things that helps when you are trying to post ears--since the Zonas is only available right now in 2" split that so you have 1" tape--you'll find it a lot easier to work with. Then taper the bottom of the post a little and make sure you are starting the first wrap as far down on the post as you can get it--it should be started where you can just begin to see the post emerging from the base of the ear.

Posting get easier and you'll get better at it the more posting you do.

dobebug
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Sleeve Gesture Wood T-shirt Font


second attempt at this. This is the set up
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dobebug said:
Let me warn you that sometimes even the really great ear croppers don't do much posting and the only ones I've ever known who do really good postings either breed a cropped breed and crop their own dogs and post them

Or sometimes they have a tech who has had so much experience posting ears that those posts are great.

One of the other things that helps when you are trying to post ears--since the Zonas is only available right now in 2" split that so you have 1" tape--you'll find it a lot easier to work with. Then taper the bottom of the post a little and make sure you are starting the first wrap as far down on the post as you can get it--it should be started where you can just begin to see the post emerging from the base of the ear.

Posting get easier and you'll get better at it the more posting you do.

dobebug
Click to expand...
Felt way more confident this time doing it. Looks better than the first time. They still lean back a bit but I know what I have to do next time.
thanks everyone for the advice. Will keep posting as I progress with this
Dog Dog breed Carnivore Jaw Ear
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That looks better but I still suggest you split the tape (looks like it's 2") so you are using 1" for posting and brace--much easier to deal with.

Keep working at it--gets easier for you and the puppy as time goes on.

dobebug
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dobebug said:
That looks better but I still suggest you split the tape (looks like it's 2") so you are using 1" for posting and brace--much easier to deal with.

Keep working at it--gets easier for you and the puppy as time goes on.

dobebug
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I’m using 1 1/2 size tape. Tried to cut off what I could with out making it too thin when taping the posts. I think for the bridge I just taped with regular size of the roll.
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kflo92 said:
I’m using 1 1/2 size tape. Tried to cut off what I could with out making it too thin when taping the posts. I think for the bridge I just taped with regular size of the roll.
Click to expand...
Can't always actually identifiy sizes when looking at pictures. I've always preferred thin to thick widths when posting ears. I probably posted ears with 3/4 inch Zonas tape until it was closed out by the manufacturer--about 25 years.

Since then I use either the J & J Sport/Coach which is 1-1/2" or 2" Zonas--but for at least the bottom two wraps I'd rather split even the 1-1/2" tape and tape those with 3/4.

Any of the fabric tapes split easily (I star them with just a little snip at the start and then you can tear them however you want the tape width to be. The only place I ever use 2" tape as a 2" tape would be in a bridge.

dobebug
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melbrod
Trim her nails! It's easier to get them used to the process when they're a puppy.

I know, you didn't ask, but I'm a preachy sort.:)

As most people here will agree with.
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melbrod said:
Trim her nails! It's easier to get them used to the process when they're a puppy.

I know, you didn't ask, but I'm a preachy sort.:)

As most people here will agree with.
Click to expand...
Lol!! I know it’s what I’ve been meaning to do for a bit. Want to buy a dremel for them as I’ve read it’s a lot better for them instead of clipping. Plus would like to get her used to the sound of it now
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melbrod
Here's some dremel info from an older post--you may have seen it already, but anyway...

I use a dremel (more or less like this one).



I use a cordless Dremel multipro, though most people prefer a corded dremel, I think. A rechargeable battery doesn't have a super long running time but it's enough for one dog. If you're doing multiple dogs in a row, it could be a problem for you--but a corded dremel is rather a pain to use (for me, anyway)

Dremel style tools marketed specifically as nail grinders for pets often don't have enough power to do tough dobe nails--it's really better just to use an ordinary hobby dremel with the coarse sandpaper roll.

A dremel seems to be much easier on the dog; apparently a guillotine clipper still hurts and squeezes a little even when you're using it properly.

Here's an older post about how to get them used to one:

Dogs are generally more comfortable having their nails dremeled than having them clipped. Dremels don't seem to pinch or squeeze the nails the way clippers do; you can get a nice smooth edge to the nail; it's much easier to avoid hitting the quick. But they do make noise and vibrate the nail as they grind it, so you have to go slow introducing one.

Here's a nail trimming demo we put together a long time ago.

https://www.dobermantalk.com/doberm...ns-nail-trimming-dremeling-demonstration.html

Here's another. I had asked for a picture of the underside of the dog's nail, because that's how I tell how much to take off. See post #21
Nails--how much to dremel (Unfortunately, this is an old post, so some of the links to pictures don't work anymore, but the picture on post 21 is still there, fortunately.)

This about how to get your dog used to a dremel:
"Just take it slow...depending on what she will allow...you may even need to start with rubbing it all over her with the motor off. Then with the motor on, but just somewhere in the room at a distance, then touching a nail for a second or too, then grinding one nail, then a whole foot and so on.

And of course, lots and lots of treats---sometimes even after every toenail when you get to the full foot thing.

Go ahead and start getting her used to the thing. Keep clipping if you need to until she is OK with the grinder. But, of course, do the grinder introduction randomly throughout the day and not in the same session as clipping time.

With a puppy especially, you may need to clip her nails a few times as you get her used to the dremel. You don't want to rush her introduction to the dremel and puppy nails can turn into daggers really fast.

Two hints...

1. Always support the nail with a finger or thumb as you grind . That lessens the vibration on that toe, and I imagine makes it less tickly for her.
2. Never grind on one nail for more than few second at a time. The area you are grinding can get quite hot. If you need to do more grinding than that, just go on to another nail and come back to the first.

Oh, and if you have long hair, tie it back. If it touches the dremel bit, it WILL wrap itself around the thing immediately and make a snarly (very curly) mess. Ask me how I know.
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