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Welcome to the forum, glad you found us :)

Yes that is a complete lie. So how old is your pup now? Big shame that you got in with such a very poor breeder :( Ears are generally done at around 7-9 weeks, and a good breeder will have them done for you, and not leave you with the trouble and work of surgery aftercare. Did he come from a large kennel when you bought him?

But it happens, and your pooch is still the first priority and the big thing is to learn from it, not make the mistake again, and spread your newfound knowledge around to try to keep as many people as possible from going to poor breeders like that.

A good breeder is someone that you can turn to for the duration of your dog's life with any questions or advice, as they are responsible for that pup as well. People like the one your pup came from, they want their money, and really aren't knowledgeable (obviously), or don't even care if they ever hear from you again sadly.

What's your pup's name? We'd love to hear more about him.
 

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I'm sure he is an adorable guy :)

Is his crate small enough that he must lay in his urine? The best thing to do, is to make sure that he cannot deficate in one area and sleep in another. Then they teach themselves not to urinate in their "den"/crate b/c they don't want to be dirty.

My advice is to bump dinnertime to around 5/6, rather then 9pm. You can give a few treats before bedtime to tide him over at most. Even though he is given an opportunity to relieve himself, his belly is still full when he is going to bed, making him have to potty before morning. Just in my opinion, perhaps make your late playtime earlier in the evening as well, so you can pull his water by like 8pm then, to limit chances of urination at night.

Just make sure he isn't eating very large portions when he eats. A good rule of thumb to remember, his tummy is only as large as the top of his head, so not too much room in there! If he is stuffing himself on large portions, then that increases his chances of accidents as well.

Make sure you are standing with him, so you know he is relieving himself when he's outside (you may be already doing that, I just thought I'm mention it for referance)

He will stay a grey/blue color that he is now. Many people have dilutes (that is what blues and fawns are called) with great coats, but they are prone to having coat trouble, so it's good to do some research on that.

VERY IMPORTANT - get him into puppy kindergarten ASAP. This breed needs socialization, get him into puppy obedience classes, take him to the pet store, parks etc. Carry treats in your pocket, and when strangers get to meet and greet him, make him sit to be petted by them, and give them a treat to give to him. In addition, the breed is notoriously same sex aggressive, so if you ever conisder adding another fourlegged friend to the house, go with a female.

Okay, enough of my novel!!! Please browse the site, feel free to ask ANY questions, we've got a ton of knowledgeable people on many different aspects of the breed on here.
 

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I also wanted to mention that 130 lbs for a male and even the 90lbs for the mom, are very very large, and not in breed standard. They are called oversized, and are frowned to breed, they increase the chances of creating offspring with health problems, namely hip displasia. A responsible breeder will only breed the best of the best, and even then, fully health tested, hips, elbows, vWd tested, and more. They will title their dogs prior to breeding, and very very rarely will they own both the male and female, reason being that you should only breed the best dogs to compliment eachother and minimize flaws (all have some flaw or another :)), very rarely will someone be fortunate enough to truley have the male to fully compliment the bitch, etc....

I'm not trying to lecture, I hope you don't get that drift from my posts :) We were ALL new to the breed at some point, and I'm just passing on stuff we all have learned at some point or another! We'd love to see some pics of Kilo!
 

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DD is right, don't cut him off totally from water, I should have been more specific :) I recommended earlier playtime, so he wouldn't be guzzling water right before bedtime, cut him off from excessive water before bedtime. Thanks for catching that for me DD....
 

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Why was he on the tranqs? Is he having a problem with his ears? Generally they don't need antibiotics after an ear crop unless there is a problem. Do they seem infected? Did he not mess in his cage before the meds?

I'd recommend ( and potty breaks inbetween what is mentioned here too)
Potty first
AM feeding 5:30-6 AM
watch closely - potty within a half hour

midday feeding around Noon
once again watch closely potty within a half hour

Evening feeding 6 PM
Potty

Some dry treats around 9ish so his belly isn't empty, but importantly, it isn't full either

I'd recommend as I said, earlier playtime then what you are doing. And limited water before bedtime. If you see him hanging over his water, just really drinking a ton, then take it away.

It's a really good idea to have a urine sample taken to your vet, even though he is on antibiotics, make sure he doesn't have a bladder infection. Then he wouldn't be able to control it. Long shot- but worth ruling out. I'd call your vet today and question the antibiotics in the first place and the possible side effects.

Only make him go 3-4 hours at the most right now before you take him out to potty at all times during the day. It will gradually increase in time as he grows. If that's too much, shorten it, anything to get the idea across to him that pottytime WILL be accessable if he just holds out a little bit.

I used to potty Lex right before bedtime around 11 for the last time, and she was approx 11 weeks when she came home, she would whimper and I'd let her out to potty again (carrying her, if I let her walk to the door, she'd stop and potty on the floor!) around 2 and again by 5:30. She was VERY regular once we got a routine! Then gradually her 2 AM potty time kept pushing back and back until I was just getting up at 6 am to potty and feed her.

By three months his puppy shots are near complete, and most puppy kindergarten OB classes require proof of vaccination (just ask around). So he will be safe with the other pups. It is very disturbing that his father was vicious, and that he is already barking and not confident. That IS NOT what a doberman is supposed to be by a long shot. You have genetics working against you for this guy to be a happy safe boy when he grows up. Hence the need to socialize, socialize, socialize, and when you think you've socialized enough, get him out some more. Every other day, or daily if possible. Lexus didn't even start to bark at anything (other than playing with the other dogs) until she was about 11 months old. She's nearly 3 now, and will happily tolerate anyone that is "allowed" in the house, but there have been some times, when she has gone on full alert when she didn't feel things were "right" to her.
 
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