From what I have read, you don't train for cues, the dog will show his/her unique way of showing. Some will sit, lay down, look at you, paw the area, keep returning to the area, or just stare at the area.Okay, here's a question for you guys:
Say you're doing the one using several containers, one of which holds the prize.
If what you want is for him to lay down in front of the correct one, what's the best way to achieve that? What if when he finds the one he starts mauling it or whatever? Would you guys be molding him for the desired behaviour right off the bat?
Oh, really? Good to know, thanks, DogsR4Life; I suspect Jack will do something like start batting at the container though. I'd rather he do something else, but then again, I'm sort of jumping to conclusions here.From what I have read, you don't train for cues, the dog will show his/her unique way of showing. Some will sit, lay down, look at you, paw the area, keep returning to the area, or just stare at the area.
We've been training (classes) for over a year now and that is the way we've trained - dog chooses the way to alert. However, most dogs won't alert in the beginning because you let them self-reward at first (eat the treat or grab the toy from the box), so there is no need for an alert. That comes later.From what I have read, you don't train for cues, the dog will show his/her unique way of showing. Some will sit, lay down, look at you, paw the area, keep returning to the area, or just stare at the area.
If you don't plan to trial, I don't think it matters what kind of container (or how many) you use. I would leave the lid off when beginning to train because I do think self-reward is important to build confidence and drive for the search.Thanks for that detailed reply!
I was going to use sour cream containers, but do you feel boxes are better for the fact they can go in and get it themselves or do you think the plastic containers are ok too if you dont seal the lid? I suppose it doesn't matter much.
8-12 containers, eh? Why do you feel so many are necessary? Is that standard for K9 Nose Work?
I've only recently heard of Nose Work as a competition or hobby, but I have always used the basic idea of it as a game. Dogs love it!Okay, here's a question for you guys:
Say you're doing the one using several containers, one of which holds the prize.
If what you want is for him to lay down in front of the correct one, what's the best way to achieve that? What if when he finds the one he starts mauling it or whatever? Would you guys be molding him for the desired behaviour right off the bat?
So how long should I stick with the food reward before I switch to something else (birch) and start treating at source?When your dog is pretty solid with those searches, you can introduce odor by pairing the odor with the treat. You shouldn't rush this part of the training before going to scent only (K9 Nosework uses birch for the first scent). By the time the dog is on scent only, they will have figured out a way to alert you to get their reward.
Kyrah's default behavior for this was to bow. She just started doing it...bowing and moving her paws in a digging type motion. If I hid the stuffie (I hide those alot we dont really do scents more objects) in a place where she could self reward...I may hold it under the pillow or in that spot until she bows. But she already knew the behavoir and we dont play frequently. I know I should its one of her favorite things to do. I save it more for boring or rainy days.Okay, here's a question for you guys:
Say you're doing the one using several containers, one of which holds the prize.
If what you want is for him to lay down in front of the correct one, what's the best way to achieve that? What if when he finds the one he starts mauling it or whatever? Would you guys be molding him for the desired behaviour right off the bat?
I would stick with the food until he is consistent with his finds, then pair it with the smell a few times, then remove it and go from there. I only paired the food and smell 2 instances and she got it from there, she may not have even needed it but I preferred a smoother transition than to just jump and possibly confuse and frustrate her.So how long should I stick with the food reward before I switch to something else (birch) and start treating at source?
I saw this one exercise online where a lady took a tea bag and placed it under a cloth and clicked when the dog put it's nose over the tea bag, then tossed a treat and moved the teabag to another location under the cloth. Would she have had to wave the teabag in front of of the dog's nose in another room before moving to finding it under a rag like this?
I've started classes with my 2nd dog now. We started training mid-December and just started pairing with birch about 3 or 4 weeks ago.So how long should I stick with the food reward before I switch to something else (birch) and start treating at source?
I saw this one exercise online where a lady took a tea bag and placed it under a cloth and clicked when the dog put it's nose over the tea bag, then tossed a treat and moved the teabag to another location under the cloth. Would she have had to wave the teabag in front of of the dog's nose in another room before moving to finding it under a rag like this?
Im willing to listen and read if you have the time this has really interested me!I'm a bit late in responding haha. What kind of scenting are you trying to train for? My dobe is trained in tracking and narcotics detection, and my mal is trained in narc and SAR. But they all take different types of training, even at basic levels. You're also training for different scents with each one. If you could elaborate on what you plan on getting into, I can go into more detail. To explain each one right now would be a 3 page post! haha =)