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post #1 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 01:09 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Pre-Puppy Help!

Okay so I have a few more questions... this may get to be a long post, so bare with me. Hopefully this will be the last "what do I need" post... "Hopefully", lol.

Ace comes home on the 15th, and we need to be prepared as much as we can! House is already puppy proofed as best as we can.

I have a training question, but I will start with what supplies should I have on hand?

Supplies/Items I Already Have:
  • Puppy Harness
  • Dremel 7300-PT 4.8V Pet Nail Grooming Tool with 6 extra sanding bands
  • 2 17-cup stainless steel water bowls
  • Backseat Car Seat Cover
  • 2 Large Slow Feed Food Bowls
  • 1/2in by 6ft Braided Leash
  • Rubber Chew Toys: a tire, a goodie bone, a hole-y ball, a Dogwood chew toy, goDog furballz, Kong Safestix, and some other chew toys.
  • Pet Waste Bags with Bag Holder
  • 100 puppy wipes
  • Styptic Powder
  • Two fleece blankets, one small, one large
  • Pee Pads
  • 42x28 Crate
  • 2 Primo Pads with tie downs
  • XL Dog Bed

Supplies I Plan To Order Soon:
  • Caldesene Powder
  • Zonas Porous Tape
  • 5/8 x 20ft Backer Rod (Or should I get 1/2in while he is small? Using the Zephyr Posting Method on this forum)
  • Hydrogen Peroxide
  • Pet Safe Syringe
  • Sulfodene Wound Care Ointment
  • Pet First Aid Kit
  • Collar
  • Inflatable Collar (recommended by breeder for after ear cropping)
  • Pet Food Mat (to stop the bowls from sliding all over the kitchen until he we can build his feeder stand)
  • Himalayan Yak Snack Dog Chews
  • BLUE Bones Puppy Regular Dental Chews
  • Get Naked Grain Free Puppy Health Dental Chews
  • STAT! Spray Pet Wood & SKin Care with enhanced Hydrogel
  • a few more chew toys that can be left at the shop where he will be spending his days with my boyfriend at work

Is there anything else supply wise I should get? Anything on my list you notice that maybe I shouldn't get?

Can anyone recommend chew sticks safe for a young puppy? Are Bully Sticks okay at this age?

Can you all recommend any medications safe for dogs that I can get to add to my Pet First Aid Kit?

Also, Zephyrs method is what I plan on using, but will the 5/8 be too big for his puppy ears? I know her dog Liberty was much older than our pup will be when he starts posting, and I am nervous of course.

What do I clean the ears out with? Just a damp papertowel? All the more ear posting advice based on Zephyr's ear posting method is welcome! I will be re-reading that thread again also.


Training question

Okay so I plan on taking our pup to Puppy Starter Classes at 12wks old (thats when his second set of shots are done, which is required by the Academy), and we know how to train/teach most commands. I use hand signals AND voice commands, and train both at the same time. I have never trained Place or Leave It, so that will be good to learn at the Academy also.

However, there is one training that my Boyfriend and I BOTH realized we are behind the times on. Puppy Potty training!!! Our last few dogs have already come to us potty trained, so its been a looonnnggggg time, and I don't think the ole nose in the pee than taken outside will be the right way for a Doberman?

Can anyone send me links, or give me advice on how to correctly potty train? I don't want to use Pee Pads if we don't have to, and we would like him to do his business behind the house in the woods. Definitely will need all the advice we can get here.


_______________________________________________

Also, if I haven't mentioned anything else in this thread or other threads that you think I need to be aware of with a new, young puppy, please do not hesitate to share! All advice is welcome!

Thank you guys so much for being SOOOOO beyond helpful for this worry wart of a new mom!
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post #2 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 01:16 PM
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LOL! You sound like me when we brought our first (and only) baby home 35 years ago.

You will be fine. anything that you find that you need is probably a short drive away.

Have fun


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post #3 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 01:26 PM
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Oh.... Chesa.

I do have one thought. With all the weird ways that cropping vets have been sending puppies home recently, I'm thinking it might be advantageous to shoot DT a pic of the post-crop setup. It might save you any immediate cropped ears hassles. Chances are they will be fine!

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post #4 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 01:38 PM
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Not a fan of Hydrogen Peroxide....yes, it can clean dirt out of a wound....but it also damages tissues and slows down healing.

Potty training....

They go out when they wake up, after they eat, 20 minutes after they eat, after they've been playing a little while, when they start sniffing and circling around...........aim for every 20 minutes or so, no matter what. When he gets it right and goes outside, throw a party with him--praise, praise, praise. If he has an accident in the house, no yelling, rubbing his nose in it or swatting. His accident means YOU weren't watching him closely enough. It isn't his fault; he doesn't have a clue what you want him to do.

Keep him in the same room with you and watch him like a hawk. You may even want to leash him to you as you move around the house...he'll learn a bit about staying with you, which helps leash training later, and you'll be able to watch him closely.

If you can't be there or can't watch him with all of your attention, a crate helps---small enough that there is no corner he can squat in without messing up his bed...which will make him hold it as long as he can to keep his bed dry. A very general rule of thumb is that a puppy can last about as many hours in the crate (if they are snoozing or otherwise undisturbed) as the months he is old (2 months--2 hours, 3 months--3 hours, etc), but more than 5 or 6 by his teenage years (7-8 months) is probably all you should ask of him. He'll last a little longer at night than during the day...but every puppy is different.

Take him out on a leash every time while you're training him (yes, even if it is the middle of the night or is raining); don't just throw him out in the yard. You want to be there to reward him, and also to be sure when he goes. That should help you know how long you can wait before the next time you take him out, and also help you to keep an eye on the state of his digestion (diarrhea? eating inappropriate things, etc.) If you take him out when you know he should be ready and he doesn't go, pop him in his crate and then take him out again after 5-10 minutes. Peeing or pooping comes first. No playing until he does his work; you don't want to be outside all day while he wanders around.

No pee pads! You're aiming for him never to have an accident in the house as you train him--a pee pad defeats the purpose. I did provide paper for my first. We both worked at the time and had never even heard of crate-training, so he stayed in the kitchen(apartment kitchen/breakfast nook) with his paper when we weren't there. That was OK--he could stretch his legs a little; we knew he couldn't hold it the entire time we were gone. But it did take a lot longer to potty train him than many dogs.....not his fault, we just weren't always there to show him what to do.

A lot of vigilance in that first month will go a long way, and save you some headaches in the long run.
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Last edited by melbrod; 02-05-2018 at 01:55 PM.
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post #5 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 01:51 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4bike ped View Post
LOL! You sound like me when we brought our first (and only) baby home 35 years ago.

You will be fine. anything that you find that you need is probably a short drive away.

Have fun


John
Portland OR
I am a worry-wart to the max. We literally live 3 mins away from Walmart and Petco, but I just want to have everything, lol. My boyfriend is ready to kill me every time he hears "Maybe I should buy Ace this..." lol.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4bike ped View Post
Oh.... Chesa.

I do have one thought. With all the weird ways that cropping vets have been sending puppies home recently, I'm thinking it might be advantageous to shoot DT a pic of the post-crop setup. It might save you any immediate cropped ears hassles. Chances are they will be fine!

John
I certainly will! Luckily we are going to a vet with Doberman experience the very next day, so I don't have many worries there, but will certainly be posting update pics as much as possible.

Quote:
Originally Posted by melbrod View Post
Not a fan of Hydrogen Peroxide....yes, it can clean dirt out of a wound....but it also damages tissues and slows down healing.

Potty training....

They go out when they wake up, after they eat, 20 minutes after they eat, after they've been playing a little while, when they start sniffing and circling around...........aim for every 20 minutes or so, no matter what. When he gets it right and goes outside, throw a party with him--praise, praise, praise. If he has an accident in the house, no yelling, rubbing his nose in it or swatting. His accident means YOU weren't watching him closely enough. It isn't his fault; he doesn't have a clue what you want him to do.

Keep him in the same room with you and watch him like a hawk. You may even want to leash him to you as you move around the house...he'll learn a bit about staying with you, which helps leash training later, and you'll be able to watch him closely.

If you can't be there, a crate helps---small enough that there is no corner he can squat in without messing up his bed...which will make him hold it as long as he can to keep his bed dry. A very general rule of thumb is that a puppy can last about as long in the crate (if they are snoozing or otherwise undisturbed) about as many hours as the months he is old (2 months--2 hours, 3 months--3 hours, etc), but more than 5 or 6 by his teenage years (7-8 months) is probably all you should ask of him. He'll last a little longer at night than during the day...but every puppy is different.

No pee pads! You're aiming for him never to have an accident in the house as you train him--a pee pad defeats the purpose. I did provide paper for my first. We both worked at the time and had never even heard of crate-training, so he stayed in the kitchen(apartment kitchen/breakfast nook) with his paper when we weren't there. That was OK--he could stretch his legs a little; we knew he couldn't hold it the entire time we were gone. But it did take a lot longer to potty train him than many dogs.....not his fault, we just weren't always there to show him what to do.

A lot of vigilance in that first month will go a long way, and save you some headaches in the long run.
A LOT of great advice here. Thank you SO so much!

The pee pads were given to us for free. I haven't really been sure what to do with them, but I definitely didnt want to use them for potty training.
Also the Hydrogen Peroxide is solely on hand for inducing vomiting in case he eats something he isnt suppose to. Thats why I got the puppy safe syringes also. Quick and easy, and the syringe even shows you how much to administer per weight of the dog.

Going to keep all this advice in mind for sure!
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post #6 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 02:01 PM
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I hadn't thought of the vomiting thing...yes, I have used it for that a couple of times. Diluted with water.

One thing you can do with pee pads is put them under his blanket or crate in the car--that might help if you need to do some clean-up.

Judging from the speed of your response, I was editing my post as you read it...looking at my quote in your post, it looks like I aded some things later. Just so you know

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post #7 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 03:36 PM
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I would make sure I had some corrective mix on hand in case of runny poops. Our vet clinic makes it and it is just some kaeolin and B12 mixed together for an upset stomach. Not very expensive. Does have a shelf life though. Some septic powder in case you get a nail too short (powder doesn't sting like the silver nitrate sticks do), some 3x3 gauze sponges. I would have a can of intestinal dog food on hand for an upset tummy too. Tongue depressors. I keep hemostats on hand too. If I was traveling, some rimadyl or tramadol for pain. If you have a good dr client relationship with your vet, this shouldn't be a problem. I have some very good vets that I work with and they are always ready to keep me prepared if I am on the road with my dog. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. Good luck and congratulations on your new family member. Nix Nay on the hyd peroxide. It destroys tissue. Can use it to induce vomiting if you have to. Make sure it is fresh. Old does not work as well.
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post #8 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-05-2018, 05:56 PM
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No pee pads, no hydrogen peroxide and I don't remember how much experience you've had with dog/puppies or Dobermans but before you try to stock up on medication I just want to point out that for serious stuff your best bet is a vet visit--and sometimes things going wrong with a dog are much more difficult to diagnose if the owner has been medicating be for the vet sees the dog.

I don't give any of the chew toys like--bully sticks , hooves, ears or rawhide) Over and above the possibility of them having been processes with chemicals which can make puppies sick and some are fatty and practically all of them have given my dogs instant diarrhea AND some like rawhides and ears are choking hazards.

No matter how many toys you bought I'd limit what are available to the puppy to two or three and rotate them.

Get a smaller size backer rod (also known in some hardware stores as caulking rod) 5/8's is probably too big--comes in 3/8 and 1/2 inch as I recall and it's cheap--get both.

I don't use bowls that are designed to slow down eating. For dogs--eating fast and then sleeping a meal off is how their digestive system works. I want my puppies to really like their food and they should be able to eat at the own speed without you making it harder for them. If they eat too fast they might puke it up but they'll just eat it again--that's a big so what--but particularly with male puppies about the time they hit puberty a whole lot of owner (especially if you are showing in conformation) find that they are suddenly begging their puppies to eat.

And I don't give a whole lot of treats--even for training most of the treats given as rewards are a piece of kibble--a kibble handed to a puppy keeps them happy. I do have, and use, for training other treats that are varying degrees of high value--small pieces of string cheese is a one that's easy to find, easy to tear or cut into small pieces and most dogs think it's pretty wonderful. microwaved hot dogs are super high value are as baked liver bit (which I make myself).

Keep a close eye on the your puppy with the fleece blankets--for some pups they seem to be more attractive to chew on and (unfortunately) to swallow. I usually start puppies out on VERY cheap blankets from Walmart--they are tougher, don't seem to be as attractive for chewing (or for the OCD suckers) or sucking--I buy king size and cut them into halves or quarters.

Good luck--ask questions as they come up--you'll have more and some you didn't think of and neither did we. The instructions on house training are very good . Just watch the puppy all the time he's loose--if he's going to work with your boyfriend he needs to be with you on this--and the puppy should probably have a crate at work so that if he's not being watched and taken out frequently he isn't free to find his own inappropriate places to go potty. That kind of behavior quickly makes puppies unpopular. The boyfriend should have a cheap clock with an alarm so that the alarm will remind him that baby dogs only have so much bladder capacity and they need to go pee more often that you could believe.
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post #9 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sandy2233 View Post
I would make sure I had some corrective mix on hand in case of runny poops. Our vet clinic makes it and it is just some kaeolin and B12 mixed together for an upset stomach. Not very expensive. Does have a shelf life though. Some septic powder in case you get a nail too short (powder doesn't sting like the silver nitrate sticks do), some 3x3 gauze sponges. I would have a can of intestinal dog food on hand for an upset tummy too. Tongue depressors. I keep hemostats on hand too. If I was traveling, some rimadyl or tramadol for pain. If you have a good dr client relationship with your vet, this shouldn't be a problem. I have some very good vets that I work with and they are always ready to keep me prepared if I am on the road with my dog. Better to have it and not need it, than to need it and not have it. Good luck and congratulations on your new family member. Nix Nay on the hyd peroxide. It destroys tissue. Can use it to induce vomiting if you have to. Make sure it is fresh. Old does not work as well.
I will definitely talk to my vet about that! Great idea.

We also already have Styptic Powder on hand for any potential bleeding from a nail trimmed to short. The Pet Vet Kit has all other items already in it.

I got the Hydrogen Peroxide solely for inducing vomiting in case of emergency. STAT! Wound Care Spray would be for any cuts/scraps that need attention.

Quote:
Originally Posted by dobebug View Post
No pee pads, no hydrogen peroxide and I don't remember how much experience you've had with dog/puppies or Dobermans but before you try to stock up on medication I just want to point out that for serious stuff your best bet is a vet visit--and sometimes things going wrong with a dog are much more difficult to diagnose if the owner has been medicating be for the vet sees the dog.

I don't give any of the chew toys like--bully sticks , hooves, ears or rawhide) Over and above the possibility of them having been processes with chemicals which can make puppies sick and some are fatty and practically all of them have given my dogs instant diarrhea AND some like rawhides and ears are choking hazards.

No matter how many toys you bought I'd limit what are available to the puppy to two or three and rotate them.

Get a smaller size backer rod (also known in some hardware stores as caulking rod) 5/8's is probably too big--comes in 3/8 and 1/2 inch as I recall and it's cheap--get both.

I don't use bowls that are designed to slow down eating. For dogs--eating fast and then sleeping a meal off is how their digestive system works. I want my puppies to really like their food and they should be able to eat at the own speed without you making it harder for them. If they eat too fast they might puke it up but they'll just eat it again--that's a big so what--but particularly with male puppies about the time they hit puberty a whole lot of owner (especially if you are showing in conformation) find that they are suddenly begging their puppies to eat.

And I don't give a whole lot of treats--even for training most of the treats given as rewards are a piece of kibble--a kibble handed to a puppy keeps them happy. I do have, and use, for training other treats that are varying degrees of high value--small pieces of string cheese is a one that's easy to find, easy to tear or cut into small pieces and most dogs think it's pretty wonderful. microwaved hot dogs are super high value are as baked liver bit (which I make myself).

Keep a close eye on the your puppy with the fleece blankets--for some pups they seem to be more attractive to chew on and (unfortunately) to swallow. I usually start puppies out on VERY cheap blankets from Walmart--they are tougher, don't seem to be as attractive for chewing (or for the OCD suckers) or sucking--I buy king size and cut them into halves or quarters.

Good luck--ask questions as they come up--you'll have more and some you didn't think of and neither did we. The instructions on house training are very good . Just watch the puppy all the time he's loose--if he's going to work with your boyfriend he needs to be with you on this--and the puppy should probably have a crate at work so that if he's not being watched and taken out frequently he isn't free to find his own inappropriate places to go potty. That kind of behavior quickly makes puppies unpopular. The boyfriend should have a cheap clock with an alarm so that the alarm will remind him that baby dogs only have so much bladder capacity and they need to go pee more often that you could believe.
Hydrogen Peroxide is only for inducing vomiting in case of emergency, not for wound care.

The slow feed bowls are kinda too big to work effectively anyhow, I realized. So hopefully no issue there. Hotdogs were going to be my go to high value treat, and I love the idea of Kibble being another treat source.

Yup both blankets are cheap-o Mainstay Walmart fleece's.

I read the post to my boyfriend and he is definitely on the same page. He is taking a small pen for the dog to roam in his shop (since he is a mechanic and doesn't want the pup under the heavy equipment) and will be taking a small crate to put in there for potty training like mentioned above. I think I am going to wait until Ace is potty trained to bring him to my work. Home and the Shop have hardwood/concrete floors but my work only has carpet lol.

By the way, how does everyone feel about a puppy starting obedience classes after his 2nd round of shots? Do you think he will be okay around the other dogs? The academy requires all dogs have their 2nd round of shots complete before starting, and you must show proof from your vet. Should be okay right? That way we could get him in classes by March and not have to wait until Fall classes.
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post #10 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 02:39 PM
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I would add some kind of enzymatic cleaner, just in case there is an accident in the house. Sometimes they mean well, but just can't make it to the door. Or the humans take too long to put their shoes on...

As far as puppy classes, I think Radar started his the week after I got him. He had his second round of shots the day before I picked him up if I remember correctly. Went to the vet the next day, and she didn't seem to think there would be any issue with him starting then. He was only about 10-11 weeks I think.

I never liked the slow feed bowls, but when Radar was eating so fast that he made himself sick (every damn time....ugh), my aunt suggested feeding from a muffin pan. Worked like a charm. I still use it here and there if I can tell he is getting a little too "gulpy" with his food. I don't like cleaning up dog vomit...or watching them eat it again.

Looks like you have a pretty good list going. I wouldn't sweat it too much. I'm sure there are things that you won't think of until after he is home.
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post #11 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 03:13 PM
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Quote From 2017 : my aunt suggested feeding from a muffin pan. Worked like a charm. I still use it here

Question : You still use to feed in or to make Muffins ? Or both --- Sorry --- lol

2. I don't like cleaning up dog vomit...or watching them eat it again.

one time - we had some friends over and sure enough - Mr. Business was eating like there's no tomorrow - and up it came - The friends were about to gag over that - Then I had to push them over the ledge - lmao - I got up and friends wife go's oh God - He's eating it - I said yep sure looks good - think I will have some -More Big gags from them - me ? lmao - funny thing --- they didn't stay much longer - so remember that if you want to get rid of somebody fast - lol

One thing I have not seen posted here for the New Mom and Dad - Is about foods that can Hurt or Kill dogs - This part I will need some help on as I Know I will forget some - But will start out with Chewing gum !!! Some kinds of peanut Butter !!! -Onions !!!! OK crew = help me out here !

Training : I took Mr. B to private classes threw the day - I really liked the one on one - about 45 minutes and a pup is done - Never thought anything about at the time , as he gets ago great with sis - BUT he has a problem now with other dogs - He is OK till them bark at him and it's Game on ! I just enrolled him today is a 5 week -- GROUP class ! This may relate to NO group with other dogs when very young -. Hope this works ! - as I want to enroll him in the next Nose Work Class in Indy at Pawsitive Partner's - which is a 12 week course - starts mid April - Dober Boys are So different than all our Dober Girls - BUT -He is the most loving Doberman we have had - Must take after ole Dad

...Ken

Last edited by ECIN; 02-06-2018 at 03:20 PM.
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post #12 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 03:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECIN View Post
Quote From 2017 : my aunt suggested feeding from a muffin pan. Worked like a charm. I still use it here

Question : You still use to feed in or to make Muffins ? Or both --- Sorry --- lol

2. I don't like cleaning up dog vomit...or watching them eat it again.
Ha! I splurged and got him his own muffin pan, and I still use it to feed him every once in a while. If I make muffins, that's a different pan entirely!

I can't stand puke. Even when it just looks like "wet" kibble and nothing else...That's a funny story though! The first time Radar puked up his dinner, he did it all over my bf's legs! I promptly got the hose to "help"..

"Money can buy a lot of things, but it doesn't wiggle its butt every time you walk in the door."

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post #13 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 06:57 PM
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Hey Radar... Hey Chesa... Hey gamer... Hey all you folks posting puppy pics.

Dax needs some puppy photos for the next months calendar pic.

Get with the program! LOL

John
Portland OR

(Don't have any puppies... Bummer)
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post #14 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-06-2018, 07:15 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4bike ped View Post
Hey Radar... Hey Chesa... Hey gamer... Hey all you folks posting puppy pics.

Dax needs some puppy photos for the next months calendar pic.

Get with the program! LOL

John
Portland OR

(Don't have any puppies... Bummer)
Great Post Big John !

(Don't have any puppies... Bummer)[/QUOTE]


Chesa Said ---- There's a Little Dober Shark - with your name on it !! lol
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post #15 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 08:56 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4bike ped View Post
Hey Radar... Hey Chesa... Hey gamer... Hey all you folks posting puppy pics.

Dax needs some puppy photos for the next months calendar pic.

Get with the program! LOL

John
Portland OR

(Don't have any puppies... Bummer)
Haha I actually JUST got done uploading mine to that thread!!! I tried to blur out my big ole hand out of the picture the best I could, and learning how to upload a picture to the post was a feat in its own lmao.
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post #16 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 10:16 AM
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I love and recommend the following:

Puppy Start Right

Perfect Puppy in 7 Days

The Puppy Primer

Social, Civil and Savvy

And this last one isn't a puppy book, but I think it's SO valuable for dog owners. The Other End of the Leash


DSC_0133
by Shanoa Delta, on Flickr

Richter & Sypha
Glengate's Mountain Fortress CAA ORT L1V NW1 L1I L1E L1C NW2 L2V L2I ACT1 RATI SOG WAC
& Sirai's Golden Masquerade ORT NW1 L1C L1V L1E L1I NW2 RATI SOG WAC
“You cannot get through a single day without having an impact on the world around you.
What you do makes a difference, and you have to decide what kind of difference you want to make.”
― Jane Goodall
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post #17 of 17 (permalink) Old 02-07-2018, 10:40 AM
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I discuss "Leave it" in Post #3 (using ITCH command)... https://www.dobermantalk.com/puppy-co...py-antics.html

Pee Pads are Lazy-BS - bad habit forming.
- some pups need taken out every 45 -60 minutes
- some every 30 minutes
- and some every 15-20 minutes
Understand the pups needs & react accordingly / potty training should be 99% successful, in 3 weeks time.

Puppy crate time is 4 hours max, at best.
- first month, pup gets taken out in the middle of the night / no accidents, builds good habits.

The first 2 months of 100% supervision, is the most time consuming to setup the Rules & a Win-win adoption by pup.

More reading: https://www.dobermantalk.com/general-...py-biting.html

------------Kelly & (Amy - RIP @ 11.7 y/o)

Last edited by Beaumont67; 02-07-2018 at 10:50 AM.
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