Thank you! yes, i was surprised too at how deep the post can go (tried with my own finger first)!
I hope there is someone local, perhaps i'm making a silly mistake that can be fixed quickly. I use paper tape in trying to save the hair but heck, i may go duct tape if all else fail ;-)
Paper tape, in my experience doesn't conform well to the ear while posting. Use the Zonas tape or Johnson & Johnson Coach Sports Tape (basically the same stuff as the Zonas but sometimes easier to get--in Oregon Walmart carries it).
As John said--DON'T use duct tape--way too sticky and many puppies react to it if it touches skin at all.
And I'd switch from the tampon posts and use either the calking rod or buy pipe insulation and cut to size--tape the pieces tightly to form a cylendar then back tape. Use a small piece of cotton at the base that goes into the ear to pad it a little.
Dust the ears on the outside with a medicated powder (like Gold Bond Medicated powder) brush off the excess. That will help to preserve hair but trust me--any hair you lose while taping will grow back when the ears stand and you stop taping.
Insert the post all the way into the ear, twisting slightly as you put it in, that will help it to get all the way down--push down on the post and pull up on the ear and press the ear against the back taped post. Without letting go--apply the first wrap of tape and until you've had a little experience with doing it,do it with single wraps and not one long piece of tape. Stick the tape to the visible part of the post at the very bottom of and wrap (apply this so that you are starting the wrap so it wraps around toward the center of the skull--that way the little fold, which is supposed to be there will fall into place and you won't need to worry about how big the fold should be) The tape should be angled so that it starts as low as possible on the post and wraps UP and around and then angles back down to terminate where it started. Put a second wrap on a little higher than the first. Then put a third on--it makes kind of a herringbone pattern at the base of the ear. At that point you can just wrap the ear--don't pull on the tape but let it sit on the ear--that way you won't be taping too tightly (which risks cutting off circulation).
The rest of the ear can be taped either with one wrap at the center and one at the very tip or (and I always fully tape an ear--doesn't help it stay in but I find it helps to not end up with pockets) tape the whole ear barely overlapping each wrap with the next.
I usually don't put in braces. Remember that you are going to be taping the ears with the tape starting toward the centerline of the skull--so the tape goes clockwise on one ear and counterclockwise on the other.
If you do put in a brace it should be low and loose--you don't want the brace to pull the ears together. They should tip out slightly--like at 10 and 2 on a clock face.
Saving the hair: When you remove tape either arm yourself with a commercial adhesive softener like Uni-Solve by Smith and Nephews--in most areas you would have to order this--some pharmacies would do it for you or you can always find a place on line--it's expensive but it makes taking tape off much easier. Or you can use any kind of oil--cooking oil--like Wesson oil, canola oil, baby oil, mineral oil--I use my fingers and a Q-tip to work the oil under the edge of the tape--it make a mess but it will soften the adhesive on the tape and enable you to remove it without causing the puppy pain. DON'T try to just peel the tape off--that hurts and pulls out a lot of hair and can irritate the skin.
Hope this makes sense and helps you--I'm way too far out of your home area and It's been almost 25 years since I've lived in SoCal.
Hmmmm--who cropped this puppy and who was the breeder? Either the clinic or the breeder might know of someone in your area who could help you--show and tell is certainly easier than trying to describe verbally what works and is cumbersome at best.
But good luck--remember that practice does make perfect when it comes to ear taping.