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post #1 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 12:22 AM Thread Starter
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My new dobie.. Need help!

Hi I just got my little rusty dobie Baxter. He is an absolute mess! Most difficult puppy I have ever owned by leagues!! I have wanted a dobie my whole life, and when my G/F Brought this guy home I was almost in tears. Now i'm almost in tears for a completely different reason. He's sooo strong willed. Although he is learning a little at a time. hes almost 7 weeks old now.

He got in trouble for chewing on the couch, and sent to his bed. Since he had nothing to chew on, he started chewing on himself.....


So justa few questions..

Is it normal for a dobie puppy to be this crazy and difficult?

Do they normally chew on absolutely everything in a 5 foot radius? How long does this last for?

He hasnt been doing solid poops.. they arent watery or discolored but more like soft serve icecream, is this ok? Or should he have a vet visit. I would definitely prefer to save the money, but will take him if he needs to go. (trying to save some money to take him to a credited ear cropper, but obviously his health is priority) He is on the exact same food that he the seller had him on.

I've trained every dog I've ever owned, and this guy is by far the most difficult.. I was told they are very easy to train ...Our schnauzer knows around 20 tricks (bang,roll,shut the door etc) I can't get him to even sit..
Any advice on training is greatly appreciated.

I'm also curious to know how much I should be feeding him @ 6-7 weeks. I've been giving him about 1/2 to 3/4 cup twice a day ( I work so I can't really feed him in the afternoon)

Is It ok that I lock him in the bathroom (everything is put up) during the day until my girlfriend get home? (around 6 hours)

Sorry for so much text, but I really need the help and it is greatly appreciated. I hang sheetrock all day, then come home to a dog that needs CONSTANT supervision, you literally can't take your eyes off of him before he is up to more trouble. Please lie to me and tell me it will get better ;-;
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post #2 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:06 AM
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Ok... I will be the one to bring the bad news. You brought your little boy home way to early. Puppies need their mom and their litter mates until at least 8 weeks. Your pic makes him look more like 5-6 weeks.

i am too tired and heart broken by your post to continue commenting..... I am sure others will give you valuable information on how to raise a puppy who was ripped from his mom and brothers and sisters at such an early age. I just can't do it right now.

Sorry if I am sounding harsh.

John
Portland OR
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post #3 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:24 AM
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I am also shocked you have a puppy that young. This puppy needs to be with his mom and siblings. He is missing out on so much. I am with John, I just don't even know what to say that a breeder would let a puppy leave the nest at that age.

What food did she have him on? How many wormings has he had? He possibly could have worms or giardia. If neither of those, then try a bit of plain cooked pumpkin or yogurt at mealtime.

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post #4 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:32 AM
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Agree with 4x4bike ped please remember he is a baby in a stranger's house a giant person is mad because he chew the couch really. 1st get a crate either tie him to you or crate him when you are not right with him. I have had dogs many different breeds Doberman's by far are the hardest to get through to adult hood.It can be done though look at it this way you are the puppy with your mom & brothers and sisters then one day a giant person comes and takes you away, telling you this and that you have no idea what they are saying they get mad for your playing and chewing on stuff feels so good on your teeth.
I will add how to house break a puppy also a article about chewing I hope it may help if you have any more questions just ask will be happy to help. Oh Doberman's have nick names Dobershark other nick names I can't think of right now. Good Luck with your baby.
House breaking 101 :
If you take them out on about a 6 ft leash it helps keep them focused tell them go potty ,hurry up or what ever words you want to use just use the same words each time. Stand in one spot let them go all around you till they find the spot then Praise like it is the greatest thing you ever saw. If they do not go in about 20 minutes go back in and crate them or tie them to you them go back out in about 30 minutes.pups need to go out after naps,playing, eating & drinking 1st thing in the morning last thing at night depending on the age of the pup you may need to take them out at night too. Always use a pet urine enzyme to clean up all traces of urine or feces you can use a black light to find all traces. It takes about 3-6 months of contestant training to house break a pup the more accidents they have the longer it takes. Hang a bell on the door you go out you ring it until the pup gets the idea how to ring it yes sometimes they ring it to go look at a squirrel but its a phase they go though you just have to go though it with them. Do not forget to praise each time they go to reinforce the potty training. If you are consistent you will also have a pup/dog that will go potty on command comes in handy when it rains,snow, is icy, on a trip at night . People will think you are a amazing trainer too. Good Luck with your new baby.
Are you going out each time with him and making sure he goes and praising every time he goes I believe it is important to ask them if they need to go potty or what ever words you want to use same words each time though. When he is playing you might ask him if he needs to go like a little reminder. I still to this day ask mine if they want to go if they have been in the house awhile.If you hang bells on the door if you ring them each time when taking him out he will learn to ring the bells on his own. This system really works just have to be consistent with it.Hang in there.

Puppies bite, and thank goodness they do. Puppy biting is a normal and natural puppy behavior. In fact, it is the pup that does not mouth and bite much as a youngster that augers ill for the future. Puppy play-biting is the means by which dogs learn to develop bite inhibition, which is absolutely essential later in life.

The combination of weak jaws with extremely sharp, needle-like teeth and the puppy penchant for biting results in numerous play-bites which, although painful, seldom cause serious harm. Thus, the developing pup receives ample necessary feedback regarding the force of its bites before it develops strong jaws – which could inflict considerable injury. The greater the pup's opportunity to play-bite with people, other dogs and other animals, the better the dog's bite inhibition as an adult. For puppies that do not grow up with the benefit of regular and frequent interaction with other dogs and other animals, the responsibility of teaching bite inhibition lies with the owner.

Certainly, puppy biting behavior most eventually be eliminated: we cannot have an adult dog playfully mauling family, friends and strangers in the manner of a young puppy. However, it is essential that puppy biting behaviour is gradually and progressively eliminated via a systematic four-step process. With some dogs, it is easy to teach the four phases in sequence. With others, the puppy biting may be so severe that the owners will need to embark on all four stages at once. However, it is essential that the pup first learn to inhibit the force of its bites before the biting behaviour is eliminated altogether.

Inhibiting the force of bites
No painful bites.
The first item on the agenda is to stop the puppy bruising people. It is not necessary to reprimand the pup and, certainly, physical punishments are contra-indicated, since they tend to make some pups more excited, and insidiously erode the puppy's temperament and trust in the owner. But it is essential to let the pup know when it hurts. A simple "ouch!" is usually sufficient. The volume of the "ouch" should vary according to the dog's mental make-up; a fairly soft "ouch" will suffice for sensitive critters, but a loud "OUCH!!!" may be necessary for a wild and woolly creature. During initial training, even shouting may make the pup more excited, as does physical confinement. An extremely effective technique with boisterous pups is to call the puppy a "jerk!" and leave the room and shut the door. Allow the pup time to reflect on the loss of its favourite human chew toy immediately following the hard nip, and then return to make up. It is important to indicate that you still love the pup – it is the painful bites which are objectionable. Instruct the pup to come and sit, and then resume playing. Ideally, the pup should have been taught not to hurt people well before it is three months old.

It is much better for the owner to leave the pup than to try to physically restrain and remove it to a confinement area at a time when it is already out of control. If one pup bites another too hard, the bitee yelps and playing is postponed while the injured party licks its wounds. The biter learns that hard bites curtail an otherwise enjoyable play session. Hence, the bite learns to bite more softly when the play session resumes.

No jaw pressure at all
The second stage of training is to eliminate bite pressure entirely, even thought the bites no longer hurt. When the puppy is munching away, wait for a nibble that is harder than the rest and respond as if it really hurt: "Ouch, you worm! Gently! That hurt me you bully!" The dog begins to think "Good Lord! These humans are so mamby pamby I'll have to be really careful when mouthing their delicate skins." And that's precisely what we want the dog to think – so he'll be extremely careful when playing with people. Ideally, the puppy should no longer be exerting any pressure when mouthing by the time it is four to five months old.

Inhibiting the incidence of mouthing
Always stop mouthing when requested.
Once the puppy has been taught to gently mouth rather than bite, it is time to reduce the frequency of mouthing behaviour and teach the pup that mouthing is okay until requested to stop. Why? Because it is inconvenient to try to drink a cup of tea, or to answer the telephone, with 50 pounds of pup dangling from your wrist, that's why.

It is better to first teach the "OFF!" command using a food lure (as demonstrated in the Sirius video*). The deal is this: "If you don't touch this food treat for just two seconds after I softly say "Off", I will say "Take it" and you can have the treat." Once the pup has mastered this simple task, up the ante to three seconds of non-contact, and then five, eight, 12, 20 and so on. Count out the seconds and praise the dog with each second: "Good dog one, good dog two, good dog three…" and so forth. If the pup touches the treat before being told to take it, shout "Off!" and start the count from zero again. The pup quickly learns that it can not have the treat until it has not touched it for, say, eight seconds – the quickest way to get the treat is not to touch it for the first eight seconds. In addition, the regular handfeeding during this exercise helps preserve the pup's soft mouth. Once the pup understnads the "Off!" request, it may be used effectively when the puppy is mouthing. Say "Off!" and praise the pup and give it a treat when it lets go. Remember, the essence of this exercise is to practise stopping the dog from mouthing – each time the pup obediently ceases and desists, resume playing once more. Stop and start the session many times over. Also, since the puppy wants to mouth, the best reward for stopping mouthing is to allow it to mouth again. When you decide to stop the mouthing session altogether, heel the pup to the kitchen and give it an especially tasty treat.

If ever the pup refuses to release your hand when requested, shout "Off!", rapidly extricate your hand and storm out of the room mumbling, "Right. That's done it, you jerk! You've ruined it! Finish! Over! No more!" and shut the door in the dog's face. Give the pup a couple of minutes on its own and then go back to call the pup to come and sit and make up. But no more mouthing for at least a couple of hours. In addition to using "Off!" during bite inhibition training, the request has many other useful applications: not to touch the cat, the Sunday roast on the table, the table, the baby's soiled diapers, the baby, an aggressive dog, a fecal deposit of unknown denomination… Not only does this exercise teach the "Off!" request, but also to "Take it" on request.

Never start mouthing unless requested.
By the time the pup is five months old, it must have a mouth as soft as a 14-year-old working Lab; it should never exert any pressure when mouthing, and the dog should immediately stop mouthing when requested to do so by any family member. Unsolicited mouthing is utterly inappropriate from an older adolescent or an adult dog. It would be absolutely unacceptable for a six-month-old dog to approach a child and commence mouthing her arm, no matter how gentle the mouthing or how friendly and playful the dog's intentions. This is the sort of situation which gives parents the heebie-jeebies and frightens the living daylights out of the mouthee. At five months of age, at the very latest, the dog should be taught never to touch any person's body – not even clothing – with its jaws unless specifically requested.

Whether or not the dog will ever be requested to mouth people depends on the individual owner. Owners that have the mental largesse of a toothpick quickly let play-mouthing get out of control, which is why many dog training texts strongly recommend not indulging in games such as play-fighting. However, it is essential to continue bite inhibition exercises, otherwise the dog's bite will begin to drift and become harder as the dog grows older. For such people, I recommend that they regularly hand-feed the dog and clean its teeth – exercises that involve the human hand in the dog's mouth. On the other hand, for owners who have a full complement of common sense, there is no better way to maintain the dog's soft mouth than by play-fighting with the dog on a regular basis. However, to prevent the dog from getting out of control and to fully realize the many benefits of play-fighting, the owner must play by the rules and teach the dog to play by the rules. (Play-fighting rules are described in detail in our Preventing Aggression behaviour bookelt.*)

Play-fighting teaches the dog to mouth hands only (hands are extremely sensitive to pressure) and never clothing. Since shoelaces, trousers and hair have no neurons and cannot feel, the owner cannot provide the necessary feedback that the dog is once more beginning to mouth too hard. The game also teaches the dog that it must adhere to rules regarding its jaws, regardless of how worked up it may be. Basically, play-fighting teaches the owner to practice controlling the dog when it is excited. It is important to refine such control in a structured setting, before a real-life situation occurs.

In addition, play-fighting quickly becomes play-training. Starting the games with a training period, i.e., with the dog under control in a down-stay, produces utterly solid stays at a time when the dog is excited in vibrant anticipation of the game. Similarly, frequent stopping the game for short periods and integrating multiple training interludes (especially heel work and recalls) into the game motivates the dog to provide eager and speedy responses. Each time the owner stops the game, he or she may use the resumption of play as a reward for bona fide obedience. Everything's fun!

Potential problems
Inhibiting incidence before force
A common mistake is to punish the pup in an attempt to get it to stop biting altogether. At the best, the puppy no longer mouths those family members who can effectively punish the dog but, instead, the pup directs its mouthing sprees toward those family members who cannot control it, e.g., a child. To worsen matters, parents are often completely unaware of the child's plight because the pup does not mouth adults. At worst, the puppy no longer mouths people at all. Hence, its education about the force of its bite stops right there. All is fine until someone accidentally shuts the car door on the dog's tail, whereupon the dog bites and punctures the skin, because the dog had insufficient bite inhibition.

Puppies that don't bite
Shy dogs seldom socialize or play with other dogs or strangers. Hence, they do not play-bite and hence, they learn nothing about the power of their jaws. The classic case history is of a dog that never mouthed or bit as a pup and never bit anyone as an adult – that is, until an unfamiliar child tripped and fell on the dog. The first bite of the dog's career left deep puncture wounds, because the dog had developed no bite inhibition. With shy puppies, socialization is of paramount importance, and time is of the essence. The puppy must quickly be socialized sufficiently, so that it commences playing (and hence, biting) before it is four-and-a-half months old.

If a puppy does not frequently mouth and bite and/or does not occasionally bite hard, it is an emergency. The puppy must learn its limits. And it can only learn its limits by exceeding them during development and receiving the appropriate feedbacks.

It also helps if you teach "Drop IT'' & " Leave IT'' do not be afraid to gently open their mouth and remove a item that they should not have. This works better when they are puppies. Also you can play the trade game a good treat that they normally do not get works best a treat for something the puppy has and should not.Again Good Luck.
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post #5 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:41 AM
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Just the post I needed to see after already being upset over a fire at a local animal shelter.....

First off, VET! Soft, loose stools are not normal. He probably has intestinal parasites, for starters. For seconders, he's barely weaned, and infrequent feedings of a poor quality food (I know you don't mention the brand, but I'm willing to bet it's not that great) can play hell on a puppy's digestive system.


A puppy his age needs to be fed at least four times a day. I seriously doubt that he's getting enough food, based on what you are feeding. Read the directions on the bag as a starting point.

And I wouldn't hold my breath on him ever getting housetrained if he's stuck in a bathroom by himself for 6 hours at a time.

And yes, the busy, busy, busy, clingy, chew everything in sight is perfectly normal for a Doberman puppy. Forget about doing his ears if you are worried about spending money on routine vet care.
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post #6 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 02:00 AM
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I'm a little surprised you got a puppy at such a young age. As previously mentioned, they shouldn't be taken away from their mom and litter until at least 8 weeks -- its such a critical period for their development and your little guy was deprived of it. I'm sure a few people on here will be curious about who the breeder is.

Why doesn't he have anything to chew on? If you think this is bad, wait until his teeth start falling out/coming in. Buy him some toys and redirect any unwanted chewing onto them and praise heavily! Biting inhibition is something a puppy has to be taught, which is something they start learning from their littermates -- which is why puppies have to stay with their littermates for longer than when you got him.

If he's had soft stools for more than a couple of days, take him to the vet. Usually, its normal for them to be a bit disoriented during their first week at their new home and as they're a sensitive breed, stress can cause their stomach can work in funny ways. BUT, I wouldn't put it down to this and if you're concerned about anything, you should go to the vet asap. Out of curiosity, what food is he on?

Dobermanns are difficult, especially a dobe puppy, so yes it is somewhat "normal" for them to seem crazy and extremely stubborn at first. Do plenty of training, from as early as possible. They are a highly intelligent, easy to train breed, but they absolutely need mental stimulation more so than exercise at that age. As with any young puppy, they have extremely short attention spans, which will get better with age, and you should not be frustrated or disheartened if they move on to something else -- just keep it short, sweet, fun and positive and continue training plenty of times throughout the day. Use really tasty treats (grilled chicken breast is my boy's favourite and will do absolutely everything for it) or find something he's interested in (could be toys, food, whatever).

To be nice about it, 6 hours is way to long for a puppy of that age to be left alone. That is going to set his toilet training back and increase his boredom which can lead to unwanted behaviours to start with. Dobermanns are dogs that need to be with their people. I took a month off to give my boy the attention, training, love and direction he needed at the most critical time of his life and if you're serious about having a dobe, you need to make some sacrifices at this stage of his life to make sure he has the best start. You will be waking up in the middle of the night to take him to the toilet, you will be exhausted just being with the little guy, but the end result will make you realise you would do it all again to have a toilet trained, well rounded, loyal companion for hopefully many years to come -- you just have to put the serious effort in.

With regards to feeding, he should be having 3-4 meals a day (sometimes even more); 2 isn't enough for a growing puppy.

I'm sorry to break it to you but no one here is going to lie to you and tell you its going to be okay or sort itself out.
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post #7 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 02:02 AM
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I'm only going to comment on some of what you asked because I'm tired.

He's going to get bigger and eat through your wall if you continue to leave him in the bathroom alone. Like literally through the drywall. Or something equally as unpleasant. He'll tear up the door, etc. He should have a crate that can be covered and made into his safe space. He is WAY too young to be left alone for six hours at a time, however. He's going to end up having to use the bathroom because he is, basically, an infant. It is VERY possible that he will get something and chew it up and swallow it when you're not there that will lead to a bowel obstruction surgery costing thousands.

We have plenty of people here that are super diligent and do everything right and still have pups get a hold of something and require surgery.

Unfortunately crating for that length of time at that age means he's going to be lying in his own urine and feces for hours on end. Do you have a friend or family member that can come over and let him out at least once?

Dobe puppies are not like most other dogs except other large working breeds. If you've never trained one... they can require a lot more time.

The biting thing will probably last through teething. Redirect whenever possible to a toy, etc. Baby dogs use their mouths to explore the world.

Babies need constant supervision.. Would you expect to be able come home from work and then pop over to the neighbors for a pint and leave a 3 month old human baby to it's own devices? My dobe wasn't reliably housebroken (he was potty trained but would destroy stuff) until he was three. Just some food for thought.

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post #8 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4bike ped View Post
Ok... I will be the one to bring the bad news. You brought your little boy home way to early. Puppies need their mom and their litter mates until at least 8 weeks. Your pic makes him look more like 5-6 weeks.

i am too tired and heart broken by your post to continue commenting..... I am sure others will give you valuable information on how to raise a puppy who was ripped from his mom and brothers and sisters at such an early age. I just can't do it right now.

Sorry if I am sounding harsh.

John
Portland OR
woah woah woah no sir. I did not rip a puppy from anything. My girlfriend works at a pet store, and the pet store owner bought them from the seller so they wouldn't end up on craigslist (she has the other 2 at home) Baxter was given to my girlfriend because My girlfriends boss knows how much I love dobies.... I've taken him to the vet and hes a healthy happy puppy. Very hyperactive and he loves to terrorize my schnauzer but she loves him and cuddles with him at night and while im working.

I came about this dog by chance, and I am Posting here because I don't know what is normal for a dobie puppy..

He will be 7 weeks in three days. I'll post another picture tomorrow, as he is finally asleep right now, and I'm enjoying the break.
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post #9 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:01 AM
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Much too young to be away from mother and siblings...they learn a lot from their mother and siblings during their first 8-12 weeks with them (bite inhibition, etc). However, you have him now so not much can be done about that. Hate to break it to you, but if you are at wits end while he's at this age, you have a long while more till he is that laid back dog it sounds like you are looking for. Without proper training and mental stimulation he will become a much larger dog that will be getting into more trouble than you describe. 6 hours is much too long at this age, is there someone who can come mid way through to let him out and play with him for a bit? When all his puppy shots are received them attending puppy kindergarten class would be a good start, i know you are tired after a long day at work, but dobermans (and many other high energy dogs) see it as you've been gone all this time now it's time to take me on a walk, play with me, etc they are a big commitment....good luck.
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post #10 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 05:31 AM
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Originally Posted by dbodin View Post
Hi I just got my little rusty dobie Baxter. He is an absolute mess! Most difficult puppy I have ever owned by leagues!! I have wanted a dobie my whole life, and when my G/F Brought this guy home I was almost in tears. Now i'm almost in tears for a completely different reason. He's sooo strong willed. Although he is learning a little at a time. hes almost 7 weeks old now.

He got in trouble for chewing on the couch, and sent to his bed. Since he had nothing to chew on, he started chewing on himself

So justa few questions..

Is it normal for a dobie puppy to be this crazy and difficult?

Do they normally chew on absolutely everything in a 5 foot radius? How long does this last for?

He hasnt been doing solid poops.. they arent watery or discolored but more like soft serve icecream, is this ok? Or should he have a vet visit. I would definitely prefer to save the money, but will take him if he needs to go. (trying to save some money to take him to a credited ear cropper, but obviously his health is priority) He is on the exact same food that he the seller had him on.

I've trained every dog I've ever owned, and this guy is by far the most difficult.. I was told they are very easy to train ...Our schnauzer knows around 20 tricks (bang,roll,shut the door etc) I can't get him to even sit..
Any advice on training is greatly appreciated.

I'm also curious to know how much I should be feeding him @ 6-7 weeks. I've been giving him about 1/2 to 3/4 cup twice a day ( I work so I can't really feed him in the afternoon)

Is It ok that I lock him in the bathroom (everything is put up) during the day until my girlfriend get home? (around 6 hours)

Sorry for so much text, but I really need the help and it is greatly appreciated. I hang sheetrock all day, then come home to a dog that needs CONSTANT supervision, you literally can't take your eyes off of him before he is up to more trouble. Please lie to me and tell me it will get better ;-;
Welcome, you have this puppy and didn't do much, if any research, so we can help but you need to try to use the search engine at the top of the forum and read, Read, READ!!! He's very cute and tiny, too tiny but very cute still.

VET IMMEDIATELY!!! I'm sure he wasn't purchased from a decent breeder because no decent breeder would allow the puppy to leave that early (I assume 5 weeks since you act like you've had him a bit) so I doubt he's been wormed or had any shots. Take him to human places but not dog places to socialize until he's had his 3rd set of shots. Also if you have a friend who has a VERY well socialized and adjusted dog let them play, that dog will teach him more than you can at this age.

Correcting a puppy at such a young a pointless, only redirect. If he's chewing on something give him a toy instead. Get lots of bones and bully sticks for him to chew on but make sure they are ok for a puppy. Make sure he's eating large breed puppy food as well, or all life stages. Add some goats milk too for a week or so, he needs some more nutrition.

Teaching a dog tricks and teaching obedience are very different. I suggest you seek out a trainer and one that uses a positive approach. I can tell your methods are old school (correcting a baby puppy) so a lot can be learned by opening your mind to other, more effective methods. Esp. Since you're now raising a working breed and dobes are very sensitive to corrections. At his age I would use treats and guide him to positions but don't use words yet, it's just confusing. My dog knows probably close to 50 or more commands but at 7 weeks she was a puppy and around 12 weeks we started using treats to lure into sits, downs and stands. Tell us where you live and we can give you some trainer referrals. Also, a bored dobe is a destructive dobe! He should be 100% of your attention when you're home. Right now you should just be playing and cuddling him. In a few weeks start some small 5min. Training sessions, after a couple months go to multiple training sessions a day. Training their brain is a great way to wear them out. Also, look into getting a flirt pole.

Buy a crate! I suggest one that has a sliding door on the inside so you can make it small enough for him to stand, sit, lay down, and do a small circle. This will help with accidents and the crate can grow with the dog. Your best bet is to take a lunch and go home or pay a neighbor to let him out and feed him. He should be eating MUCH more than twice a day. He's a growing puppy!

Please let this be a lesson to 1) NEVER buy a puppy as a gift!!! 2) save your money and purchase from reputable breeders who care about the dog and who know and love the breed. Your breeder should be your first point of contact but in your situation STAY FAR AWAY FROM YOUR BREEDER, unless it's to tell them to spay and neuter they dogs! And please have your boy neutered as well.

Good luck! This breed can be very challenging! They are smart but independent thinkers unlike other breeds. I promise if you work to make a good puppy you will end up with a great dog!

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post #11 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 06:04 AM Thread Starter
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I'm not sure why my posts are not showing up. I did not get him from a breeder. My girlfriend works at a pet store, and a lady sold the 3 in the litter to my girlfriends boss. Her boss bought them because she was scared they were going to end up on craigslist. Her boss gave her one to give to me since she knew I loved dobermans. I got him purely by chance... baxter came as a total surprise.' She has the other 2 at her house.

I took him to the vet the first day that I got him, and she said he was a healthy happy pup. I was told (although im not sure if its accurate since I never talked to the seller) that he had his first shots.

He is on purina puppy chow right now. I'll try to see if I can get my neighbors kid to feed him when she gets home from school.

Hes not alone in the bathroom, I put my schnauzer in there with him, and they like to cuddle and play. Thats really the best I can do for entertainment for him until my girlfriend gets home from work. I do play a lot with him, whenever I have the chance.

My bathroom is all tile luckily. I am going to put some steel piping around the toilet water line though, just in case.

He will be 7 weeks in 3 days.

I didn't say I couldn't afford, or wouldn't take him to the vet. I just don't wan't to take him for something unnecessary.

Hes doing ok on the potty training. He will poop outside no problems. But he will also poop inside no problems. So I'm halfway there.

Thank you for the advice to those who gave it. For others you should at least ask how I got the dog before passing judgement. And people sending private messages to just take the dog back, please stop. That is obviously not an option.
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post #12 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by Gretchen_Red View Post
I promise if you work to make a good puppy you will end up with a great dog!
Hi. This is all really good advice - and couldn't agree more with the comment above. I've found this breed particularly challenging and very hard work but by asking questions on this forum and taking the advice I understand my dobe so much better and we're both learning something new every day. Don't despair, he's so tiny, just relax and enjoy him but for now I think you will have to rethink your routines / lifestyle to accomodate his needs.

Best of luck, he's so cute.
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post #13 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 07:24 AM
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I'm only going to address a few things here as it is disheartening to read your post.
Your needs to be fed more than twice a day. He's a baby and needs to nutrition. If you don't he could very well become hypoglycemic and become very very ill. 4 times a day he needs to be fed, you'll want to invest in a good quality large breed puppy or all life stages dog food. Lower quality foods do not always have the proper calcium to phosphorus ratio and that will create another expensive to resolve issue.
Crate! Buy one. Off Craigs list if need be. Wash it with a 10% mix of bleach and water wipe and air it out. He needs to be safely confined and the bathroom will not cut it for long.
At his young age he needs stability, patience and love. You're not going to 'teach' him much at his current young age unless understand capturing behavior or freeshaping. Relax he needs to grow and mature as he is far too young to be away from mom and siblings.
YES he needs a vet visit. I'm sorry but your choice of breeders leaves much to be desired and I can only assume corners were cut.
Redirect his chewing onto something appropriate a chew toy a bully stick something you deem appropriate.
Look into trainers in your area you're going to need the help.

Please keep in mind he is a baby. Much like a human baby you need to keep your expectations age appropriate! Time and patience along with age appropriate training is your key to success.
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post #14 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 07:40 AM
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I feel so incredibly sorry for this puppy. My heart breaks for him no way for a pup to live. I hate to see how you are 'training' a SIX WEEK old baby. Ugh.

"stay hungry, stay foolish."
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post #15 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 07:40 AM
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Please don't expect him not to chew. For one, chewing is how he explores new things. Would you demand a baby keep his hands to himself and not touch anything? It's basically the same activity and neither can possibly stop...it's against their very nature.

When he chews on something you don't want chewed, give him something you do want him to chew on, an alternative. Same with your arm, give him a stuffy toy and remove your bloody arm.

Two meals is not enough, plus large meals (overeating) will cause soft stools.

Change your training methods! Don't ever spank this puppy. Use positive based methods only. Its isn't that this puppy is hard to train, but rather you are using the wrong methods. I did similar with my first doberman puppy. I, too, had trained all my dogs, tricks, the whole works and I had a lot of dogs. However this puppy was driving me nuts, didn't like her, till one day I had a heart to heart with myself and realised the problem was me, not the puppy. After I changed my training methods everything went ROSY and she made the best dog I had ever had up to that point. Your puppy will improve immensely being told and rewarded for doing right instead of punished for doing wrong. Plus your bond will be much stronger and he will be a much more confident dog.

You got him too young, but even without that in order to quickly, successfully housebreak, you do have to literally watch him every second or leash him to you. I had to take my boy out every 15-20 minutes till he was close to six months or he peed in the house. He would go to the door, but if I didn't see him, he peed...really had no choice.

Get this book and use it, before and on top of positive only training classes.

http://www.amazon.com/The-Power-Posi.../dp/0470241845

Last, but by far not the least...take him to a good vet NOW! Every puppy, no matter where he comes from, needs a first checkup to make sure he's healthy, get whatever he needs done, if anything, and a schedule set up for his vaccinations.

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post #16 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 10:25 AM
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"Little by little"....

You probably feel you are being jumped on, and I have never posted a single thing on this forum, but this breaks my heart. It was shocking enough to read that your baby is "almost seven weeks" old. Then...I realized that prior to that you said, he is learning "little by little." Exactly how old was this baby when you got him??...good Lord, were his eyes even open?
No puppy that is not even 7 weeks old should get "in trouble" for anything. The poor thing has zero idea what he is supposed to be doing. I can't imagine "training" a puppy (omg) this young, but if you insist, it should only involve rewarding and praising what you DO want him to do. He is scared to death and rightly so.
If you decide to keep this baby....by taking him from his mother and litter mates FAR too early, you have put yourself in the situation to teach him every single thing...including the socialization that he desperately needed to learn before he left his mom and sibs.
Good luck...truly...sorry you are getting harsh responses. It was thoughtful of your GF to try and get you a gift that you've always wanted, but a dog does not deserve to have its life put in someone's hands as a "surprise." For any dog, and especially Dobermans, it is critical to do research, planning, and preparation prior to taking on the responsibility.
I'm sad picturing this tiny guy locked in the bathroom for 6 hours.
I am a complete newbie to Dobermans, and the pros on here probably have some constructive advice. l KNOW I don't know everything (not even close), but this was glaringly terrible enough for me to chime in.
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post #17 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 11:13 AM
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Do you or your G/F have a lunch hour that you could come home and feed the puppy? That is what I do. Stella is almost 10 months and I still come home at lunch just to give her some attention and usually a snack.

I was lucky to be on vacation when I got Stella so I had two weeks home with her to help her acclimate. She was also 9 weeks. Those few weeks really do make a difference. They learn a lot from their mother and littermates during those crucial weeks. That being said, what is done is done.

I am not sure what the solution is for working people. I have been able to get it worked out using a combination of things. We have a dog door and a secure backyard. When Stella was little I used an Xpen around the dog door so she couldn't go far, but she could go out to potty. That is not a solution for everyone. It really depends on your neighborhood, fence situation, etc. There are real dangers to be considered if you use a dog door especially with a young puppy. Like I said before I always come home at lunch even though it is only 20 minutes. I always leave her with treats in her toy dispenser and safe things to chew on. Once or twice a week she goes to work with my husband where she can play with her dog friend. So I guess I would encourage you to think outside the box and try your best to come up with some way to decrease the amount of time he is home alone. Dobermans are not solitary dogs, they love their people, and they bond deeply. They are happiest when they are literally on top of you.
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post #18 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 11:51 AM
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It is never good to be 'Surprised' with a puppy.

One should always get a pup after you are prepared for one.

Op, I hope you read all the posts very carefully, lots of helpfully information has been posted for you.

Hugz to Baxter.

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post #19 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 11:59 AM
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Poor puppy and poor you! It sounds like you both are in a not so great situation.

There's a lot going on here.

Since I've not seen it mentioned (or I've just missed it), is the schnauzer male or female? If male, you'll want to do some serious reading on same sex aggression. It's a pretty prevalent problem in the breed. Some people are lucky enough to avoid it without taking any precautions and you'll hear plenty of stories from people whose dogs have been "just fine." However, when it's not fine, it's a big problem.

His age has been discussed and I agree, the poor thing is way too young to be away from mother and litter mates. Make sure that you socialize a ton as soon as you can. Also, read the long post about bite inhibition that somebody pasted in (The Bite Stops Here). It's a wonderful article and should hopefully be a great aid for you.

I know you said that he is vet-checked and healthy but if he's not pooping well, maybe get a second opinion. I also do not think that you are feeding him often enough. How much is something you'll have to eyeball - you don't want to be seeing bones but you don't want him to have rolls upon rolls of fat. Look for a lean puppy and feed the amount that will keep him that way. If you absolutely cannot find a way to feed him throughout a day, maybe get an automated/timed feeder. That being said...

Six hours alone is not a good idea at all. I believe that this is where most of your problems stem from. You have an under-socialized puppy who is likely bored out of his skull and he's not being fed often enough. He's likely very uncomfortable. Of course he's chewing things. When you're home, you need to tire him out. Play with him, walk with him (but not for long, no forced walks) and train him. I understand that you are working and that you cannot likely come home - you need to find other options then. Yes, other people have puppies and work but most other people don't have puppies this young. You're at a disadvantage here.

I read that training is not going well but remember that he is super, super little. He's the most babiest of babies. It's going to be hard for him. Take things slow, make them easy. Play games with him, they may work better. Show him food and then hide it under a cup and have him find it - things like that. Don't expect him to learn at the same rate as a well-raised, well socialized, well prepared puppy because, cute as he is, he isn't any of those other things. It is not his fault, either.

Yes, it is very normal for dobermans to chew. It's been said already but, yes, he will chew you out of house and home if you don't find ways to distract and deter him. A tired puppy is a happy puppy. Train with patience and kindness.

Also, I'm not sure it's been said, but as bad as this situation is and as strongly as the forum members are reacting (we are worried about the puppy, that's all), good on you for coming here and asking for help. Good on you for sticking around even if the reactions aren't all super positive. Stick with it - dobes are great dogs and it WILL get better if you give this puppy the time and the effort that he needs. It will be difficult, but it will be worth it. This is an amazing breed, after all.



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post #20 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:15 PM
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Did you take a stool sample to the vet and have him checked for parasites? I'm always amazed at how many vets don't check for worms on puppies.

Purina puppy chow is kind of crap food, sorry but it is. If you're on a budget try feeding blue buffalo, Purina pro plan for large breed puppy or Eukanuba for large breed puppies. You MUST feed either large breed puppy food or a higher end brand All Life stages food. When you buy a better food make it a slow switch out, like 2 weeks, adding a little of the newer food brand a day.

Good luck! Let's get this puppy healthy and on a schedule!
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post #21 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 01:57 PM
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You keep saying the puppy was from a pet store like that's a good thing. It's not. Any breeder that would sell their puppies to a pet store cares so little about them that they don't care who buys them or where they end up. They didn't care enough to keep the litter together until the appropriate age to give them a chance at good socialization and to learn things like bite inhibition. The pet store owner sent the puppy to you because they know you like Dobermans, but you're not offering up the best home for this puppy right now so it kind of speaks to where pet store puppies end up. Liking Dobermans or just wanting one isn't really enough. Researching, learning, being prepared for a puppy is what should happen prior to acquiring.

As others have said, puppies his age should be eating 4 times a day and they eat a lot more than you would think. They actually eat less as they grow. He can probably eat twice as much as you're feeding him now but in four installments.

Locking the puppy in the bathroom with the schnauzer is not cool for either the puppy, and especially for the schnauzer who has no escape from a demanding puppy. It's not up to your schnauzer to raise this puppy!

I'm not going to lie to you - it won't get better if you're not prepared to spend time on this puppy regardless of how tired you are when you get home from work. It's not uncommon for puppy owners to get up a couple of hours earlier than normal to exercise their puppy and spend some time tiring it out before they leave and then spending a couple of hours meeting its needs when they get home. And you're right - you literally can't take your eyes off a new puppy. They need constant supervision for several months.

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post #22 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:31 PM Thread Starter
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ok wow so first off, I never spank him. I gave him a time out after telling him "no sir" about ten times and trying to mis-direct the chewing with one of the toys I bought him. Nothing was working at the moment so I moved him to his bed and away from the chewing distraction.

Second, Training consist of giving him treats and simple commands. He likes the training time as he sees it more as playing, and free treats. This is a good thing isnt it? Strengthens the bond, teaches good behaviors and is interaction with the puppy.

Third, I NEVER ASKED for this puppy. This puppy was more of a rescue kind of situation as the store owner only bought them for the sake of keeping them off of craigslist. There was no a better option for the dogs. I had no way of being prepared for this and im trying my best to do what I can to make things comfortable for him. I'm here trying to get help (thanks to those that are giving it) and I'm being reprimanded and judged in doing so.

I have only had the dog for a few days. He was at the 6 week marker when I got him. Yes this is accurate. The vet I took him to verified this. Why would I Lie about this if I'm seeking help for a young puppy. Calling me a liar is pretty mean.

I give the dog as much attention I can. I get home from work, and spend the entire rest of the night working with this dog. It's very tiring, but I'm doing the best I can. I don't understand how I am wrong to be tired. I assume a lot of people here either own their own home business or don't work.

Its fine to be concerned for the dog. Thats perfectly ok. Talking to me like im the scum of the earth is wrong and not helpful. If you really care about the dog, try giving me tips and pointers on how to handle the situation instead of acting like jerks.

My schnauzer is a 3 year female. I'm very happy with how they are getting along. Shes a patient, caring and smart dog and like another poster said is probably teaching him more right now than anyone could.

For those concerned, from what I see he is a very happy dog. This whole house is like an adventure for him most of the time. I will find a way to ensure he is fed more each day. I have a et appointment for friday, I will try putting him on the expensive puppy chow at the pet store for a day or so and see if it helps with his poops while im waiting.

I cant leave a job site during lunch. Im trying to get the neighbors daughter to come by and feed him after school.
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post #23 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:41 PM
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@ dbodin

"woah woah woah no sir. I did not rip a puppy from anything."

To be clear, I did not accuse YOU, per se, of separating your little guy from his mom and sibs. However, whomever was responsible did both you and your puppy a great disservice.

This is simply an unfortunate set of circumstances put into play when your GF's boss decided to purchase these pups at such young age from a negligent "breeder".

I went back and reviewed the comments, including mine. IMO, nobody is attacking you, or even criticizing you except, perhaps for your lack of knowledge vis a vis the Doberman breed.

Please don't run from this site because of a perceived slight. I would consider your new little boy to be a "special needs" puppy. You are really going to want to take advantage of the terrific advice and support here on DT.

Welcome

John
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post #24 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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My girlfriend can take him to work with her also. I figured this would be really good for him when his a little older, to get good socialization. They don't sell dogs up there so other puppy interaction is a no go, but the other employees often bring their dogs with them, and theres always new people coming in for him to meet.
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post #25 of 111 (permalink) Old 03-16-2016, 04:53 PM
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I don't know what others will say, but I think that is a reasonable alternative to leaving him locked in a bathroom. Personally, I would do it.

My daughter-in law worked in her father's vet clinic for a few years. She took their pup (after he was immunized) there regularly, as did many of the other employees.

I am not actually implying cause and effect, but their dobe boy was one of the most socialized dogs I have ever seen at a very young age

Good luck

John

Edit: If it worked out, I would try and let him spend lots of time with his litter mates for the next 4-6 weeks

Last edited by 4x4bike ped; 03-16-2016 at 04:56 PM.
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