I am also concerned about your "corrections". I don't really see the point of correcting the dog because of your shitty work.
I didn't explain myself properly sorry. I only correct him by holding him close to the ground around his neck when he try's to bite me at home or try's jumping at home so he knows his place. He is a very thick nerved pup and needs this because he always continues. I will explain what I do in bitework with him alone and then I will explain what I do at the club. Mind you I base my training right now on the michael ellis training system with some added advice from manfred Lerner the breeder.
On a typical day I take my dog to a new environment and have him chasing me and doing obedience exercises sit down stay stand come etc all with food (marker training)
I then ask him if he is ready to work and he will give me random sits downs he will bark etc to engage me and I mark it and then play tug with him. I make him sometimes miss the tug to stimulate his drive. When he bites I have found this out and also been told by manfred that I need to use my voice in a semi threatening manner and it's seeming to really work. I also have to play a little rough with him because he gets more interested even when it comes to returning the tug to me when I let it go. This is how manfreds bloodline seem to be. I was making the mistake of getting too excited and playing too long but in recent days I've stopped this and done 1-2 minute sessions and the improvements and engagement have been remarkable.
Some days I follow a puppy bitework routine that is for young adolescent dogs which is titled "puppy bitework 8 weeks to 18 months" by michael ellis. My girlfriend handles my dog on a leash and my dog will bark without me moving. I then stimulate him and give him some misses and reward him with a bite on a soft sleeve leg sleeve or just a tug/ bite pillow. We use many different items with different materials to make sure he isn't equipment bias. ALL of the bitework we do with him is in prey and of course I never put him into defensive drive thatS why I think it's ok if he bites me on a sleeve. We let him win the item and then he does a hold and carry in a circle back to me to start up the game again. Sometimes to balance between possession and man orientation, after he wins the equipment from a bite I will have him redirect his focus onto me with or without equipment on my body to get him engaged on me to do the next bite.
He has been showing such determination and really biting hard so we decided to make him down before leg bites and we introduced the "out" on sleeve leg sleeve bites also. My boy has had a solid out from tugging so no conflict was created here. He does get very mouthy sometimes and aggressive he will nip at parts of the body on the but he's learning and a firm no redirects his drive.
I know that you mention he should learn that barking creates movement but he naturally barks In bitework even when there is no movement. Did you mean he should also be barking to initiate movement when his playing tug with me 1 on 1 also?
Although I do bitework training at my local schutzhund close to where I live in Bergisch Gladbach I also do bitework at a mondioring club. I don't want to compete in schutzhund but I've been told by manfred to prepare him for the ZTP because these dogs are sort after in Germany for stud and I'm open to the fact that he gets to do bitework at more than one location which is good for him and he gets more than one decoy. There is no conflict in the training from club to club because both decoys there are doing the same training that I do at home with him with my girlfriend. Right now he is not doing tracking, jumps or anything like that, just simple engagement with obedience with me. After obtaining a ZTP I will prepare for mondioring 1.
Please tell me what you think about this training and thanks in advance