The Girls Outside! - Page 1046 - Doberman Forum : Doberman Breed Dog Forums
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post #26126 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 09:36 AM
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Going to be chilly here today...10 degrees for the high. We're staying in!
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& Sirai's Golden Masquerade ORT L1V L1E L2C L2I NW2 RATI SOG DOG TKN WAC
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post #26127 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 09:50 AM Thread Starter
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For you Ford lovers and possible Sally's out there.

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post #26128 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Here is for the boys!

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post #26129 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 10:11 AM Thread Starter
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Horsie doesn't like donkeys. Plus he may not chase dogs. Do you like the quarter horse type?

He's cute, but...
I am an Arabian fan but will not turn down a Quarter Horse. QH's are fine horses.

That horse that I posted is a good looking horse. But, he's old.

Got to keep thinking barn.

I figured this out!

You all go start a GoFundMe account.

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post #26130 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 11:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spocksdad View Post
Oh yeah, Moe, for some reason (being in TX) I was thinking you were on a first floor slab!

IMO, that would definitely be the the best solution is to reroute piping beneath subfloor to come up through base 2x4. Remember, if you notch out 2x4s, put reinforcement plates to span openings after pipes installed, to maintain strength of wood.



If you have access underneath, there must be a basement below?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaumont67 View Post
MOE - for easy plumbing redirection of lines, I use SHARKBITES...if not covered up in basement.
- crimped PEX or soldered copper is better, if fitting or pipe is behind a closed wall
- behind a closed wall, SharkBites can't be replaced, without opening up the wall // if they ever leaked...which is remotely rare, but still a small risk

Instruction video:
https://www.sharkbite.com/resources/...nnect-fittings
Quote:
Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
If this is the original plumbing then there is probably a good reason the pipes do not come up through the base 2*4. Would it be easier to raise the shower floor? notch the 2*4 and 90 the 2 water feed lines to get everything lined up proper.
*

SD - Yeah no slab here most are on crawl spaces. This side of the house is 2 - 3 foot high underneath so some working space but not the best. Yep thought about the metal reinforcing as well!

Beau67 - I did see those sharkbites or at least came across as I was watching videos....but with your video maybe not so bad. We have cpvc pipes. Which uses the "glue" to hold them together.

AJ - Hopefully, I will not have to raise the floor to get above the 2x4...One that would definitely be above my paygrade - two the step into the shower might be a problem then.

Also yes original plumbing - only reason I can think of is the floor joist below aligns about 2 or so inches into the 2x4 frame.

Closeups of the pipes:

Side view coming up from floor next to the 2x4 frame.


Top view of pipes.


Left Pipe a pain also as it is almost or is in line with the vertical 2x4....


Shower Valve that will be replaced - guess would have to cut and replace. - Maybe use sharkbites or just attach back with correct adhesive.


The underneath pipes would have to be re-worked as well.

So for now in holding pattern until I figure out if I can do it - or need to have a real plumber come in....
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post #26131 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 11:39 AM
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That pex that 6-7 is the best ! A neighbor over hauled a out fam house and they replumbed the whole house with it , very neat stuff - What I really liked about it , is they came in with the main water then - and I will call it a manifold type deal then ran the other lines from that to like the shower - sinks - what ever and everyone that a shut off right there for each line - I love that ! you can isolate the problem line if need be .

As for me - I have never seen lines run like that - and I have seen a lot of them . And Mode - is your shower on a outside wall ? I noticed that there was some insulation missing . did you take that out ? if so - don't forget to put it back in
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post #26132 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 01:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECIN View Post
That pex that 6-7 is the best ! A neighbor over hauled a out fam house and they replumbed the whole house with it , very neat stuff - What I really liked about it , is they came in with the main water then - and I will call it a manifold type deal then ran the other lines from that to like the shower - sinks - what ever and everyone that a shut off right there for each line - I love that ! you can isolate the problem line if need be .

As for me - I have never seen lines run like that - and I have seen a lot of them . And Mode - is your shower on a outside wall ? I noticed that there was some insulation missing . did you take that out ? if so - don't forget to put it back in

A neighbor - who is a mechanical engineer came over and looked and he mentioned using pex as well. Covert from cvpc to pex in crawl space. Some work but maybe I can. Which is where I can use the SharkBites Beau mentioned. Then holesaw on other side of 2x4..which should put me also on other side of the joist. Initial concern is that same plumbing is "Teed" off to the bath tub.

My understanding pex is more flexible so can have some play.

Then up above floor and behind shower wall - it will be pex. I would have to buy pex crimper, quick look around $80 at Lowes. Home Depot around $60.


Insulation - yep outside wall. At first I thought it was just jammed up inside...I pulled it down and still missing some. Will have to buy some!

Ha home renovation adds up a bit at a time
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post #26133 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 02:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by modm View Post
A neighbor - who is a mechanical engineer came over and looked and he mentioned using pex as well. Covert from cvpc to pex in crawl space. Some work but maybe I can. Which is where I can use the SharkBites Beau mentioned. Then holesaw on other side of 2x4..which should put me also on other side of the joist. Initial concern is that same plumbing is "Teed" off to the bath tub.

My understanding pex is more flexible so can have some play.

Then up above floor and behind shower wall - it will be pex. I would have to buy pex crimper, quick look around $80 at Lowes. Home Depot around $60.


Insulation - yep outside wall. At first I thought it was just jammed up inside...I pulled it down and still missing some. Will have to buy some!

Ha home renovation adds up a bit at a time

Sounds like a plan... I didn't mention Pex cause didn't know if you wanted to spend extra $$ on crimper?

Here's retrofit conversion of our Master bathtub to walk-in shower 2012 project. Changed from copper to Pex plumbing for new shower piping. Done by contractor while I was working on ship out of town. DW would send daily photo updates:

Pex Piping Install Including Surge Pipes, plus Vacuum Breaker (for longer wash hose to bath Dobes)






Finished Shower Installation





Pex tubing is supposedly freeze resistant, not freeze proof, even if not drained. This is important for outside walls and in crawlspaces. (Ask me how I know, after Houston deep freezes in late 80's, with frozen outer wall PVC water piping?) Pex has "potential life span" of 100 years, but I'll believe that after 2090!
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post #26134 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 02:58 PM
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Modm- you need to know why the pipes are not coming through the floor stud. I would carefully cut out a piece of the floor to get a look around to know what i am working with , careful to not cut any water or electric lines. Cpvc pipe has been working fine why switch? , you need no special tools to do the job.

Me , I would cut a hole big enough to get my arm in to feel around , if it was solvable i would cut a nice size square that would allow the re-plumb and move on.

If for some reason it is a real pain to get through that stud just move the water lines to a wall which would be simpler to plumb
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Last edited by alan j.; 12-15-2019 at 03:15 PM.
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post #26135 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 03:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
Modm- you need to know why the pipes are not coming through the floor stud. I would carefully cut out a piece of the floor to get a look around to know what i am working with , careful to not cut any water or electric lines. Cpvc pipe has been working fine why switch? , you need no special tools to do the job.

Me , I would cut a hole big enough to get my arm in to feel around , if it was solvable i would cut a nice size square that would allow the re-plumb and move on.
I have to agree with Alan - I would stick with the pvc - just for the reason he said , I would use the pex if I was doing a total over haul of your pluming - but not for a little job like Modm is doing .

Also - Modm said he's has a crawl space - best bet it's a 3 block - but could be a 4 - if it's a 4 block then there is all kinds of room - Take some measurements in the bathroom then go down and have a look see and see what you have . Also be 'n' it was a one piece and now it's not - how will the floor drain work out ? will it need to be moved to line up the new shower floor ?
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post #26136 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 03:25 PM
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I hate working in tight spaces,

I would just cut the floor and bottom stud and wood chisel if i had a wood beam in the way to get the pipe flush with wall.
Cut the cpvc , two 90's and your moving forward
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Last edited by alan j.; 12-15-2019 at 03:29 PM.
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post #26137 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 03:33 PM
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Alan you female kitty !
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post #26138 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ECIN View Post
That pex that 6-7 is the best ! A neighbor over hauled a out fam house and they replumbed the whole house with it , very neat stuff - What I really liked about it , is they came in with the main water then - and I will call it a manifold type deal then ran the other lines from that to like the shower - sinks - what ever and everyone that a shut off right there for each line - I love that ! you can isolate the problem line if need be .

As for me - I have never seen lines run like that - and I have seen a lot of them . And Mode - is your shower on a outside wall ? I noticed that there was some insulation missing . did you take that out ? if so - don't forget to put it back in
Quote:
Originally Posted by modm View Post

Beau67 - I did see those sharkbites or at least came across as I was watching videos....but with your video maybe not so bad. We have cpvc pipes. Which uses the "glue" to hold them together.
Here in ON, Canada...the local building codes approve of Pex &/or Copper water supply lines...2 dissimilar lines, connect with SharkBites.
- we have only a 3 ft CPVC line to condensate drain, on our central air furnace coil...but that is it here, in open furnace room
- Papa house is mostly PEX now, with a very small amount of original cooper
- I would never put CPVC water pipe, behind a closed wall... asking for trouble
- PEX it & invest in a crimp'er

DOC - the manifold idea is great, we have one off our 1" Natural Gas main line.
- 4 with shutoff valves, in the furnace room
- all exposed and no gas line joints, covered up with drywall
MOE - worth reading...below.

--------------------------------------

Plumbers warn of CPVC piping problems

https://www.clickorlando.com/news/20...ping-problems/

Plumbers recommend knowing what pipes are in your walls
A pipe that builders are using inside homes more and more is coming under fire by the people who know best -- professional plumbers.


[WEB EXTRA: CPVC information | PEX information ]

Plumbers are warning you to know what's inside your walls no matter how old or new your home is.

Plumbers told Local 6 that CPVC pipes, which are plastic with glued joints, are a ticking time bomb because it's not if a leak is going to happen, but when it will happen.

Bernice Dockery is dealing with the problem right now.

"Improve their product, the material is no good," Dockery said, referring to the CPVC pipes behind her walls that were installed 14 years ago.

The leaky pipe in the ceiling stretches from her bathroom into the bedroom.

"When a pipe goes in a home it's suppose to last," Dockery said.

Chris Rainaldi of Rainaldi Home Services said that's the problem -- CPVC pipes don't last.

"Over a period of time, it gets brittle and cracks and breaks and the glue joints continue to deteriorate through the pipe and go bad," Rainaldi said.


Plumbers said Florida's heat and chlorine in the water is also bad for CPVC pipes.

So how common is this problem?

"With CPVC, this is a very common thing. CPVC is one we see on a regular basis," Rainaldi said.

In fact, 40 percent of homes re-piped by Rainaldi Home Services had CPVC pipes.

Liam Cuddy's company, Emerald Plumbing, does 12-15 re-pipes a week. He said they see the same thing.

"It's a product we know is failing. The manufacturer knows its failing," Cuddy said.

The manufacturer even cut CPVC's warranty from 25 years down to 10, and that only covers the pipes, not any water damage.

That was a red flag for Kevin Jones, who had his home re-piped, but he said he was forced by his insurance company to use CPVC pipes.

"I think people should have that choice and I can't understand why insurance companies are dictating what homeowners have to put in their homes," Jones said.


Emerald plumbing did the install.

"When we do one in CPVC, in my heart and soul I know they are going to have a problem," Cuddy said.

The problems with CPVC pipes can range from:

Turning off the valve by the toilet and having it snap off in the wall
Mopping your floor and hitting the connection, causing it to snap
To be fair, some plumbing companies prefer CPVC. Ferran Services & Contracting uses it on a regular basis.

"It is a good product, its one of the most durable, as long as it's installed properly," Jesse Crawford of Ferran said.


Local 6 said to Crawford, "This really is no surprise when I tell you: You have got competitors who are really adamant about NOT using CPVC."

Crawford says, "Not at all, it's still written in the plumbing code book that we can use it."

But Dockery said she wishes she didn't use CPVC and said she feels angry.

According to both Rainaldi and Cuddy, a pipe called PEX is a better option. They said it's not as rigid or brittle.

PEX pipes cost a little bit more than CVPC, but they have a 25-year warranty. And unlike CPVC, if there is a leak, PEX's warranty covers the damage to your home so you don't have to go through your homeowners insurance.
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post #26139 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 03:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
...Me , I would cut a hole big enough to get my arm in to feel around , if it was solvable i would cut a nice size square that would allow the re-plumb and move on....

That's the ticket, AJ.....Why not get the Mrs. to help you, since she has smaller arms?....

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Last edited by spocksdad; 12-15-2019 at 03:52 PM.
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post #26140 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 04:13 PM
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Hey bug, tell me...if the title and band are written on the youtube picture (the one that displays when it is posted here) can you see them? Or does that picture not even load at all?
Like the ones that AJ posted of John Denver and Credence Clearwater (I have a friend who loathed CC--always referred to them as Clarance Bilgewater)?

If I'm at home on dial up I see nothing sometimes not even the code--if I'm at the library I see the picture.

I forget what Denny asked me--I'd answer if I could remember the question but since I'm evidently being very senile today--bye bye ya'll...

ABTLH
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post #26141 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 04:20 PM
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A hack repair--pack the screw hole as tight as you can with wooden toothpicks and carpenter's glue; let it dry and then you can drill new holes.

Or use a larger/longer screw.
LOL! can't use the toothpick repair--been doing that to this particular door for a couple of years--can't use larger screw--the hinge has countersunk holes and it interfers with the closing of the door if you aren't using a #8 flathead. Can't do longer either because I've run out of solid framing behind this particular door.

HOWEVER! I have fixed it--cleaned out the holes plugged them with plastic wood which isn't good for just about anything else--redrilled and now the door (so far) is working and the screws aren't pulling out of the plastic wood plugs which are staying in place.

YAY! Not as complicated as Modm's plumbing fix but workable.

ABTLH
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post #26142 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 05:12 PM
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Originally Posted by Beaumont67 View Post
Here in ON, Canada...the local building codes approve of Pex &/or Copper water supply lines...2 dissimilar lines, connect with SharkBites.
- we have only a 3 ft CPVC line to condensate drain, on our central air furnace coil...but that is it here, in open furnace room
- Papa house is mostly PEX now, with a very small amount of original cooper
- I would never put CPVC water pipe, behind a closed wall... asking for trouble
- PEX it & invest in a crimp'er

DOC - the manifold idea is great, we have one off our 1" Natural Gas main line.
- 4 with shutoff valves, in the furnace room
- all exposed and no gas line joints, covered up with drywall
MOE - worth reading...below.

--------------------------------------

Plumbers warn of CPVC piping problems

https://www.clickorlando.com/news/20...ping-problems/

Plumbers recommend knowing what pipes are in your walls
A pipe that builders are using inside homes more and more is coming under fire by the people who know best -- professional plumbers.


[WEB EXTRA: CPVC information | PEX information ]

Plumbers are warning you to know what's inside your walls no matter how old or new your home is.

Plumbers told Local 6 that CPVC pipes, which are plastic with glued joints, are a ticking time bomb because it's not if a leak is going to happen, but when it will happen.

Bernice Dockery is dealing with the problem right now.

"Improve their product, the material is no good," Dockery said, referring to the CPVC pipes behind her walls that were installed 14 years ago.

The leaky pipe in the ceiling stretches from her bathroom into the bedroom.

"When a pipe goes in a home it's suppose to last," Dockery said.

Chris Rainaldi of Rainaldi Home Services said that's the problem -- CPVC pipes don't last.

"Over a period of time, it gets brittle and cracks and breaks and the glue joints continue to deteriorate through the pipe and go bad," Rainaldi said.


Plumbers said Florida's heat and chlorine in the water is also bad for CPVC pipes.

So how common is this problem?

"With CPVC, this is a very common thing. CPVC is one we see on a regular basis," Rainaldi said.

In fact, 40 percent of homes re-piped by Rainaldi Home Services had CPVC pipes.

Liam Cuddy's company, Emerald Plumbing, does 12-15 re-pipes a week. He said they see the same thing.

"It's a product we know is failing. The manufacturer knows its failing," Cuddy said.

The manufacturer even cut CPVC's warranty from 25 years down to 10, and that only covers the pipes, not any water damage.

That was a red flag for Kevin Jones, who had his home re-piped, but he said he was forced by his insurance company to use CPVC pipes.

"I think people should have that choice and I can't understand why insurance companies are dictating what homeowners have to put in their homes," Jones said.


Emerald plumbing did the install.

"When we do one in CPVC, in my heart and soul I know they are going to have a problem," Cuddy said.

The problems with CPVC pipes can range from:

Turning off the valve by the toilet and having it snap off in the wall
Mopping your floor and hitting the connection, causing it to snap
To be fair, some plumbing companies prefer CPVC. Ferran Services & Contracting uses it on a regular basis.

"It is a good product, its one of the most durable, as long as it's installed properly," Jesse Crawford of Ferran said.


Local 6 said to Crawford, "This really is no surprise when I tell you: You have got competitors who are really adamant about NOT using CPVC."

Crawford says, "Not at all, it's still written in the plumbing code book that we can use it."

But Dockery said she wishes she didn't use CPVC and said she feels angry.

According to both Rainaldi and Cuddy, a pipe called PEX is a better option. They said it's not as rigid or brittle.

PEX pipes cost a little bit more than CVPC, but they have a 25-year warranty. And unlike CPVC, if there is a leak, PEX's warranty covers the damage to your home so you don't have to go through your homeowners insurance.
I would not disagree which one is better , but his plumb job will last longer than the rest of the plumbing in the house. His job would should not be disservice to his buyer. If Cpvc is such a lousy product that he may want to disclose to potential buyers that they are sitting on a time bomb.
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post #26143 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 05:20 PM
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Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
Modm- you need to know why the pipes are not coming through the floor stud. I would carefully cut out a piece of the floor to get a look around to know what i am working with , careful to not cut any water or electric lines. Cpvc pipe has been working fine why switch? , you need no special tools to do the job.

Me , I would cut a hole big enough to get my arm in to feel around , if it was solvable i would cut a nice size square that would allow the re-plumb and move on.

If for some reason it is a real pain to get through that stud just move the water lines to a wall which would be simpler to plumb
Quote:
Originally Posted by ECIN View Post
I have to agree with Alan - I would stick with the pvc - just for the reason he said , I would use the pex if I was doing a total over haul of your pluming - but not for a little job like Modm is doing .

Also - Modm said he's has a crawl space - best bet it's a 3 block - but could be a 4 - if it's a 4 block then there is all kinds of room - Take some measurements in the bathroom then go down and have a look see and see what you have . Also be 'n' it was a one piece and now it's not - how will the floor drain work out ? will it need to be moved to line up the new shower floor ?
Quote:
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Beaumont67 View Post
Here in ON, Canada...the local building codes approve of Pex &/or Copper water supply lines...2 dissimilar lines, connect with SharkBites.
- we have only a 3 ft CPVC line to condensate drain, on our central air furnace coil...but that is it here, in open furnace room
- Papa house is mostly PEX now, with a very small amount of original cooper
- I would never put CPVC water pipe, behind a closed wall... asking for trouble
- PEX it & invest in a crimp'er

DOC - the manifold idea is great, we have one off our 1" Natural Gas main line.
- 4 with shutoff valves, in the furnace room
- all exposed and no gas line joints, covered up with drywall
MOE - worth reading...below.

PEX pipes cost a little bit more than CVPC, but they have a 25-year warranty. And unlike CPVC, if there is a leak, PEX's warranty covers the damage to your home so you don't have to go through your homeowners insurance.
Thanks everyone for advice and information!

Doc - what you said to Alan - is what my wife said to me

So from all the conversations.....I still need to see if I stay with cpvc or convert over to pex under the house. We are on a well, has not leaked in almost 11 years so could stay with cpvc.but good arguments to go to pex.

Alan - there is nothing under the house where those plumbing lines go up. After I read the posts, I went back under the house (was getting dark) so I could turn on the bathroom lights and see it shining through. No wires or other items except the pipes and insulation.

One line - cold water will be easy-ish. The hot water is harder as they Teed off and crossed over the cold water.

Beau - if I go with SharkBite to convert over to pex is this what I am looking at for the conversion parts? https://www.lowes.com/pd/SharkBite-1...ENqg&gclsrc=ds

Here is what I found while under the house -

It is a 3 block at that section of the house (7 block at other end). So 24" to the joists from ground.

And here is the dimensions from up top and plan to do:



Depending on how much room I really have the 3/4" may go up to an 1" if I have room on the 2 x 4.

I could go on other side of joist but that would not be plumb with how the shower head would drop down....but if I go with PEX not as big a deal.

I told my wife I will start tomorrow - but she has to stand in line to get my beer mug! She goes oh....ok.
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post #26144 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 05:22 PM
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Originally Posted by dobebug View Post
LOL! can't use the toothpick repair--been doing that to this particular door for a couple of years--can't use larger screw--the hinge has countersunk holes and it interfers with the closing of the door if you aren't using a #8 flathead. Can't do longer either because I've run out of solid framing behind this particular door.

HOWEVER! I have fixed it--cleaned out the holes plugged them with plastic wood which isn't good for just about anything else--redrilled and now the door (so far) is working and the screws aren't pulling out of the plastic wood plugs which are staying in place.

YAY! Not as complicated as Modm's plumbing fix but workable.

ABTLH
It probably isn't as complicated as I am making it out - just stuff I do not have experience doing and I worry about messing it up. Even if I am trying to sell the house still want to make sure it is the best I can do and not cause the next guy problems.
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post #26145 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
I would not disagree which one is better , but his plumb job will last longer than the rest of the plumbing in the house. His job would should not be disservice to his buyer. If Cpvc is such a lousy product that he may want to disclose to potential buyers that they are sitting on a time bomb.
I would bet most houses around here are cpvc or similar - particularly the houses in this neighborhood as they were all built by the same guy.

As you say - I think it will last as well if I: Use the primer (purple I think) and then the cement (orange I think) and fit it to the lip should be ok....but will think on it over night. I can at least get the holes drilled etc...

Then shut off the water to the house when I am ready.....complete it then turn it back on. Let it sit for a day or so before I begin the install of the shower pan and walls. Give me a chance to see if it leaks, or seeps.

FYI - I did install a simple house filter- cutting into existing cpvc line coming in and connecting it to the filter. That was 10 years ago and no leaks. Not a great professional job but it is working.
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post #26146 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 05:50 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
I hate working in tight spaces,

I would just cut the floor and bottom stud and wood chisel if i had a wood beam in the way to get the pipe flush with wall.
Cut the cpvc , two 90's and your moving forward

I don't blame you AJ! I'm claustrophobic too!
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post #26147 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alan j. View Post
I would not disagree which one is better , but his plumb job will last longer than the rest of the plumbing in the house. His job would should not be disservice to his buyer. If Cpvc is such a lousy product that he may want to disclose to potential buyers that they are sitting on a time bomb.
AJ - CPVC is looking like a lousy product from all current literature, in trades now.
- but some States have less than adequate building standards // so almost anything will fly
- not so Free, in Canada // our Building inspectors, are strict on this Negative stuff
- for good enough reason...to each his own !!

-----------------------------------

SharkBite fittings come with a PEX stiffener pre-loaded into the fitting for PEX, PE-RT and HDPE. The PEX stiffener does not need to be removed for Copper or CPVC applications. Cut the pipe as cleanly and squarely as possible. Be sure the pipe is free of scratches and debris

MOE - study chart, on top right of link...
https://www.google.com/search?q=cpvc...Y7jFrpdJDRM9TM

Common SharkBites https://www.amazon.com/s?k=sharkbites&ref=nb_sb_noss

More to Study https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002STLFGE...002STLFGE&th=1

PS - It would be nicer to use a SharkBite below the floor, and not have any CPVC in your hidden wall cavity.
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post #26148 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 07:16 PM
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Fast forward 20 years and they will be saying the same thing! The New hot item is the way to go! Nothing last forever!
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post #26149 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 07:41 PM
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Alan you female kitty !
I will always do what it takes to get a job done , even if i do not like it!
kitty , kitty
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post #26150 of 36363 (permalink) Old 12-15-2019, 07:42 PM
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37 years ago - we bought our 1st house & it was before the days of cooper tubing.
- built just after WWII
- all galvanized runs of water pipe & some fittings starting to develop tiny rust leaks
- first year of ownership, we had to plum the entire house in fresh cooper
- not a welcoming task

And the worst place to fix a pin-hole...is behind a shower, which is all tiled up.
- ask me how I know // it will blister all the painted drywall or plaster, on the outside
- and that's when you SAY..."HUSTON, we HAVE A PROBLEM" !!

40 years ago - I new a Quality Manager at a Cooper Tube Manufacturing plant.
- he had to go to NYC, to investigate a $5 million Law Suit, for pipes leaking on a 45 story high-rise build
- he went to explore & half way through the day...saw trades people urinating in the open copper fresh water pipe
- that went to the lower levels, and the acidic nature started a bad chemical reaction
- and ultimate failure, of cooper install
- Manager saved his job, and his company didn't go bankrupt in process...legation was dropped
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