Congrats on your new puppy!
Just like our human children we have to teach them from the very beginning what is acceptable and what is not acceptable behavior.
IMO For any puppy of this age we must always be teaching proper behavior. In order to do this (when outside of pen or crate) my suggestion is to place puppy onto a 6 foot leash. The puppy should always be with you on this leash in order for you to witness proper behavior and well as negative behavior. By allowing yourself to be so close (within 6 feet) this give you the opportunity to notice proper behavior in the moment and reward that behavior or notice negative behavior and issue your displeasure in that behavior.
Puppies just like our human babies are so excited......everything is new ......and no litter mates now so picking on your older dog can be quite exciting also.
I purchase a nice 1 inch leather leash and a martingale collar .........and would tuck my end of the leash into my jeans pocket.
My Hoss as a puppy was basically at my hip always........now no worries they will learn to follow you.........and you will not have to do this forever .......but just know that teaching “yes” takes time BUT undoing negative behavior will take ALOT more time.
The only time puppy should have free run time in crate or pen...or outside separated from your older dog.
As puppy matures ........things will improve.
Also when training your dog NEVER let then win.....that reinforces the negative behavior......like when you crate and pup whines ....if you get tired from the whining ....and let pup out....POOF pup won! Turn crate into a fun place........try traditional Kong.....wet your dog food ...stuff the Kong with this food and freeze the Kong. When pup is placed in crate .....let pup settle for a few moments...(when not whining ) then give pup the frozen Kong. This will give all of you some moments of quiet.
I understand ....shoot when Hoss was a pup ...it was exhausting for me also. Like having a newborn baby in the house. Some days I was just so tired from interruptions in sleep I just wanted QUIET..........but as time went by .....things got better. Having pup at my hip allowed me to train in short spurts all the time.....so looking forward to more of your stories and pictures of this little smarty pants !!! LOL .......so hang in there .......and take control of that pup! LOL
As far as feeding time ......find a way to slow down that desire to attack the food dish. Pup wants as much as he can get......so there are toys that you can place kibble in that they roll around or mats ....to slow them down..........some use cup cake tins......
Be creative......and never let the puppy out smart you .....anticipate the pups behavior and overcome! After all we are Humans!!!
Now go take control of that pup!!!
Seriously ....would love to hear more from you ...this is a great forum with lots of experience......
Thank you for the suggestions. I will check out the martingale collar. I guess I'm afraid that keeping him on leash when he plays with my Boxer will cause them to get tangled up given how rough the play usually is. Should this not be a concern? Generally, though, I am within 6 feet when they are playing.
I think I should start using his crate for time-outs as you suggested, but how do I balance putting him in there for time-outs with not making him think its a bad place?
For feeding, I split his food between a slow-feeder bowl and a puzzle toy. More puzzle toys are on the way too, hopefully this stimulates him a bit.
I have some thoughts but I want to make sure I understand the situation fully before suggesting anything.
What's his daily routine since you brought him home? Just describe a typical day in the life of your puppy.
The first week there wasn't really a routine except for set feeding times. I feed him at 11:30 a.m., 3:30 p.m., and 6:00 p.m.
I take him outside pretty frequently throughout the day. Knock on wood, he has never had an accident in his crate, he hasn't really pooped in the house in a while, and he only pees in the house a few times a day, usually on a training pad. However, he can't hold it in, or doesn't know to yet. He only goes outside because I catch him before the act and carry him outside. Otherwise, he goes where he is standing.
I'm getting better at making him nap when he starts to get cranky, but I don't think I'm doing this at the same times every day. The only real schedule I'm strictly following is feeding. I try not to put him down for the night until 1 a.m., hoping that he'll make it until 7 a.m., but it's hit or miss. A few days ago he didn't get up until after 9:00 a.m. Yesterday he started whining at 2:30 a.m., I brought him outside, and I caved and let him sleep on my bed. He woke me up and I brought him out again at 5:00 a.m. Then playing/sleeping on and off. He usually sleeps about 1.5 hours for every hour of play.
The only time he is in his crate is when he is sleeping at night. I keep the crate next to my bed. During the day, I have a play-pen set up to keep him separated from my other dog. There is a blanket, toys, and a training pad inside. However, he doesn't like being in the play-pen unattended. If someone isn't in there with him, he'll whine and jump at the gate for what seems like an eternity. I've read everywhere to leave him until he stops doing it and then go over to him. But he never stops doing it. He spends a lot of time outside of the play-pen whether it be sitting on my lap or annoying my other dog.
I hope that paints a mostly complete picture. I'm sure I left some stuff out or made a few mistakes, but that's generally what his day is like.
I'm going to start at the back end of your puppy issues with one of the easier things. About the food and his reaction to it and trying to get your Boxer's food while she's eating it.
When you are going to feed the dog or dogs, crate the puppy or put him in the pen so he isn't diving into the food container or bugging the Boxer. It's not too early to teach an easy thing like a 'sit' and 'stay'. Make sure he's on leash and the Boxer is not around as a distraction. Take a few kibble and hold one close to his nose and raising it slowing until he sits--when he does this quickly give him the piece of kibble and say "GOOD SIT!" Be really happy about it. Repeat for four or five kibbles. Do this four or five times a day. Eventually he'll get this down pat and you can let him out of the crate or the pen and pick a place--have him sit and with him sitting give him his dish of food.
Don't keep repeating the commands and start out with the command AFTER he has already sat.
Do not feed him and your Boxer together. Feed him in his pen or crate and her where ever she normally eats but don't turn the puppy loose until she's finished eating and the pan is gone--ditto for the puppy.
You need to set this up so he always succeeds--every time he dives into the food bag or into the Boxer's food bowl he's won--and he won't quit trying until you make it impossible for him to do it wrong.
Doberman puppies are very rough--and he will not 'get' your no bite command and catching him and laying him down on his side will not stop him from mauling your Boxer. Bottom line is that most Dobe puppies aren't suited to play with adult dogs because they are so rough.
When my Aussie was alive he took a lot of mauling from the various Dobe puppies he helped raise. They would grab his mane and drag him around. Occasionally a puppy would bite him hard enough to make it through all the hair and the Aussie would bite them back--at that point I'd bring every one except the Dobe puppy inside and leave him outside alone (or with me) to cool his jets.
Or I'd do the opposite and bring the puppy in and I don't let puppies bite me--as soon as he bit me he went in the crate for a time out or I walked into another room and shut the door in his face and left him for a few minutes. If he continued to try to bite me in play or for attention he got crated for a few minutes--most of the time he ended up asleep because it finally settled him down enough that he was just over the top and really needed a nap.
But just as I never allowed puppies to play with children because until they were fully trained not to try to play with kids as if they were other puppies (and that's what it's really all about) I didn't let puppies play with most of my older dogs--the older male Dobes weren't nearly as tolerant as the Aussie was about being bitten by a puppy.
Puppies learn best from their dam's and their litter mates not to bite too hard--that's because their dam's will punish them for it (usually without killing the puppy) and litter mates will refuse to play with a puppy that is too rough.
The only way I've ever known to successfully stop this is to remove the puppy from the situation. Eventually they grow up and learn some things from you (like not biting too hard) or they get old enough to abandon some of this behavior that is all part of puppy behavior.
It's unfortunately all part of puppyhood --which is also all about learn what not to do as well as what to do. For the record--I also don't let my puppies play with other dogs on leash. I don't want them to grow up thinking every time they see another dog it's play time. My dogs pretty much all start out intended for the conformation ring and there is nothing more irritating at a big crowded dog show to have a puppy who is trying to engage in play with every dog it sees.
Good luck--it's frustrating for you but he's not going to 'get' what it is you don't want him to do the way you are trying to teach him. It just isn't how dogs brains work--dogs are the ultimate pragmatists--if they do something once and it's dangerous of very irritating they will keep trying to do it because they did it once and it was fun for them. You either need to make sure he doesn't get to do this kind of stuff at all or correct it as soon as it happens and don't let it happen again. Much easier in the long run than trying to fade a behavior that always gets a puppy in trouble later in their life.
Ever since he dove into the food container I began keeping him in the pen during feeding time. The moment he hears the food container he goes berserk in the play-pen, barking and jumping at the gate trying to get out. If someone is around, I'll have them take him out while I prepare the food. On one occasion he heard the food container being opened as he was going outside, and as soon as he came back in he ran straight for my other dog's food bowl (he was on-leash and didn't get to the bowl).
He is actually pretty good with "Sit," "Stay," and "Okay" when his food is in front of him (his bowls are inside of his play-pen, separate from my other dog). He's learned very quickly, and we are working on it every day (the one good thing about his food fixation is that he is easily motivated). But this only works when the food is in front of him. Otherwise, he is fixated and going crazy at the sound of the food.
And thank you for your other suggestions. I tried the remove him from the situation technique with his biting but didn't really think I was getting anywhere so I abandoned it and went back to what worked for my other dog. But I'll give it another go and keep at it. Crazy me for hoping the pups would get along perfectly from day 1 lol!
Thanks for everyone's suggestions!!