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post #1 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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Dry skin

Hi everyone I just got my first dobie. He’s blue and 7weeks old. He is adorable. My question is what does every body due/use for their dry skin I’m a where that blues and fawns have more skin issues but I’m just curious to what everyone does for their dobies 😁
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post #2 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 05:39 PM
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Good food is the best way to start. Don't bathe often (the dog- not you). Why do you have the puppy so young?
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post #3 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 05:40 PM
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Hi Meegan and welcome from the Pacific NW.

The syndrome that you are referring to is called Color Dilution Alopecia. It is quite prevalent in Dilute Dobermans (Fawns and Blues).

The primary effect is hair loss (alopecia) although malformed hair follicles can give rise to bacterial infections.

The following link is to an Animal Dermatology Clinic newsletter The right side of the page has a brief accurate description Of CDA:

https://www.animaldermatology.com/ne...st-august-2010

My youngest's sire is a 13 yo fawn. His owner is member dobebug. She is a familiar as anyone on the issues dilute's face. Actually, the issues all Dobes face. Perhaps she will chime in.

John
Portland OR

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post #4 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:12 PM Thread Starter
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Thank you for the advise!! We actually got him when he was 6weeks in 1 day we got him in Arkansas which they don’t have a law where you have to wait 8 weeks to get pups so the breeder wiens then off of their mom at 4 weeks and asks her vet if they are ready either at 6 or 8 weeks depending on the litter.. we are new to dobies and would love any information anyone has. We are planning to put him in obedience training.
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post #5 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 08:52 PM
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The problem with taking them young (earlier than 8 weeks) isn't entirely the weaning process; it is more that puppies are really developing their social skills as dogs as they grow...having litter-mates and mom around starts them on the right track to becoming mentally healthy adult dogs.

You will probably need to work on things like bite inhibition more (dobe puppies are little sharks until they lose their needle puppy teeth at the best of times) because that is something that litter-mates are so good at teaching each other.

Here's an informative thread we've put together about dealing with the overenthusiastic play-biting puppy:
https://www.dobermantalk.com/puppy-c...biting-me.html

Still, what's done is done with you acquiring your young puppy. A breeder who is selling their puppies young simply because "they're weaned now" may not be as good as you will be in making sure your pup is well-socialized, anyway.


Are you planning on getting your puppy's ears cropped or are they cropped already? Be sure to ask here about that process. There are a lot of pieces to that puzzle...what age to crop your puppy, good cropping vets vs bad ones, ear care after the crop, good and bad posting methods...and there is a lot of bad information out there. If you've chosen not to crop that's fine too. We won't try to change your mind

There are a lot of knowledgeable folks here. If you have questions, fun stories or even sob stories to share as your guy grows, fire away! And we NEED pictures of your new little family member!!
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post #6 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-15-2019, 09:04 PM
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Here's a website about caring for blue dobe's skin...
Storm's Regimen

I don't know if it has been updated, but it might give you an idea about what kinds of things you need to consider. Maybe give it a look, and come back here to ask questions about what it says??

I haven't ever had a blue or fawn dobe, so I am not that knowledgeable about their specific coat problems.
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post #7 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 12:00 AM
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Oh.. Meegan. BTW. dobebug's old guy is my boy's maternal Grandfather not his dad!

John
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post #8 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 02:40 PM
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If you use the search feature you can find quite a few long posts and long threads that have to do with dilution, fawn and blue and quite lot of information on how to best maintain the coat on a dilute Doberman.

The linked 'Storms Regime' is a good starting point to read for information but I know that someplace in that information Jim makes a point of saying that he doesn't use all of the things he talks about at the same time--so keep that in mind when you read that particular source of information.

The two best things for having a dilute dog with a good coat is heredity (that dilute dogs in the line of the puppy have had and retained good coats. And general good maintenance--that means good food, adequet exercise, training--the basics for any dog really.

The fact that you started the threat "Dry Skin"--caught my eye. Here's a big DON'T for you--if you think the puppy has dry skin don't try to rub oils or coat conditioners on the puppy--skin condition on dogs is basically controlled from the inside out--add some oil or fat to his diet--not a whole lot--he'll reward you with a nice case of diarrhea if you overdo it.

I start all my dogs, not just the fawn dog, on fish oil and vitamin E after they are 6 months old. They all get a spoonful of yogurt a day and an egg a day (both things are very beneficial to good skin and coat in any dog so they get the yogurt with breakfast and the egg with dinner mixed into their kibble.

I don't bathe any of my dogs very often except those that are showing in conformation--they get bathed before each show or show circuit. When I pet the fawn I pet in the direction of the lay of the hair. I DON'T scratch him ever--dilute hair is more fragile than black or red hair. I also don't scrub them when bathing them--single coated dogs rarely got so dirty that they would need scrubbing anyway (if they've gotten into things like sap or pitch remove that with vegetable oil before you bathe them).

I use a very mild shampoo (which I get from my vet) and for the fawn boy I use a leave in conditioner--thinned down about 25 parts of water to one part of conditioner and sprayed on after the dog has been rinsed thoroughly. Again--the texture of their hair is different than red or black hair.

Blues typically have more hair loss and earlier hair loss than fawns--but occasionally you'll find a blue with life long excellent coat. Basically you just learn to live with what you get.

I waited almost 40 years to get my fawn dog--I'd told his breeder that if she ever got a show quality fawn male she should check and see if I had a vacancy--she did and I did--but I knew about dilution and coats and I told my fawn dog when he was just a puppy with a lovely coat that if he held on to his coat long enough to finish his championship I'd make him all the coats he might ever want--he did as asked and other than a few coats just for warmth at winter show where we were standing around a lot I didn't even have to make good on my promise.

You'll probably hear that dilute dogs have more skin problems--Dobe puppies tend to have bouts of pyoderma and staph period--it's because of an immature immune system--mostly they grow out of it. My fawn actually had better skin and fewer problems than some of my black dogs as a puppy. The other problem you may run into is that Dobes as a breed tend to become hypothyroid as they age--all of them--because hypothyroidism often produces areas of thinning hair a lot of vets don't test for thyroid levels and write the hair loss off as CDA because they are fawn or blue--don't let them do that--my fawn boy has a full coat--AND he's also hypothyroid and is treated for that so he never had thinning hair because of it beyond the very first sign of it.

This is very basic information--congratulation on your new puppy--you can ask question as they arise when it comes to the skin and coat stuff with a dilute dog but I'm kind of with what Melbrod said about a puppy that young being removed from his litter mates and mother--it's definitely more than just weaning to be considered.

Good luck with you new addition.

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post #9 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-16-2019, 09:00 PM
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Well all... dobebug's not going to brag about my boy's Grandpappy. I will!

Via Dobequest: Ch Foxfire's Gold Toed Monster BN CD RE OA AXJ NF CGC CGCA ROM BFL-1 LC-10L

And that LC-10L could read LC-13L. I guess Dobequest hasn't gotten the message that some of our boys are living longer.

Love you Toad! Talk to you on your 14th.

John (with his STJ! hat on)
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post #10 of 11 (permalink) Old 03-20-2019, 02:45 PM
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It's not so much dry skin as sensitive reactive skin. Think of it like a teenager w/ acne. Just like a teenager, the best thing to do is keep your pup clean. Lance, my blue boy, jumped into the shower w/ me every Saturday. Use a gentle shampoo, no conditioner ... Vet's Best Itch Relief is a great oatmeal based shampoo. I also used Nature's Gate Biotin shampoo.

Blue's often present w/ CDA (baldness) after the age of 2. CDA has a anabolic yeast component, which is why keeping their skin clean is so VERY important. As long as their skin clean and healthy, u won't even notice. Blue's skin is the same color as their hair. With or without hair, they r still beautiful dogs. Refer to my pic of Lance looking out the window w/ the orchards. U will see what I mean.

U can spend a small fortune on vitamins and supplements trying to stop CDA, but they will make no difference (except to your wallet ). Make sure your dog has a good dry food (meat first, no crap fillers like rice hulls, ...). I mix breakfast w/ some Campells Chunky Chicken Noodle soup, dinner w/ a bit of real meat (chicken breast, ham, ...). Make sure to pour boiled water over the dry and let it soak for 15 min. or more (to prevent bloat).

And like all Dobes, since so many are hypothyroid, have your dog's thyroid levels tested and corrected when he is older. Simple matter of a inexpensive pill once a day.

Blue's r beautiful dogs ! Enjoy your boy
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post #11 of 11 (permalink) Old 02-28-2020, 06:47 PM Thread Starter
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Shampoos

What is a good shampoo for blue Dobes? I’ve don’t the burts and bees oatmeal and I feel like it doesn’t clean him that well?
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