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07-18-2008, 10:30 AM
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#1 (permalink)
| | Big Dog
Posts: 92
Dogs Name: Gino Dogs Age: Valentines day 2008
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| Socializing I thought I had a pretty good understanding of the importance of socializing a potential protection pup during their imprinting period(s). Taking them to new places, letting them meet new people and interact w/ other dogs etc., but then I read that others don't do any of this @ all. They don't let them play w/ other dogs or pups or let anyone touch/pet them. I would appreciate anyones input on this, especially the second portion, Thanks! |
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07-18-2008, 04:18 PM
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#2 (permalink)
| | Lil Pup
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Location: Seattle, WA Dogs Name: Dago vom Sattelberg Titles: SchH3 Dogs Age: 3
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| This is an interesting subject and I am sure there are many many ideas. What I try and do with puppies is to socialize them with dogs and people. In saying that my idea of socializing with people is letting the pup visit and get a pat on the head. I don't want people playing with my pup, that is solely for me and my pup. This works the same for soicializing with other dogs, I don't really want the pup to play for hours with other dogs, just enough for them to realize other dogs are OK but "MY" games are way more fun than that other dog or those other people. In short I want my dog to choose to work/play with me over all others, be he must be good with people and dogs.
Obviously if I have a young dog showing agression or avoidance to people or dogs then I will change the amount of visiting/playing to try and fix this problem.
My goal with my dogs is high level competition.
Just my thoughts,,,,works for me :-) |
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07-18-2008, 10:38 PM
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#3 (permalink)
| | Alpha
Posts: 387
Location: San Antonio, TX Dogs Name: Karma Titles: CGC Dogs Age: 1
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| I am all about socializing Karma. As long as the people dont freak out or their dogs, I will allow her to meet them. If kids want to pet her, I encourage that as well. Mainly because I dont want her to have any issues, and also that I am trying really hard to change the image of dobies here in my area. I dont want anyone to profile my dog (just a few times) and any chance I get to educate an ignorant person (not that they are idiots, but just believe the hype) I think is worth it to the breed.
Although I do agree with not letting them play with kids, they can meet and pet, but thats about it. And my trainer actually has even used Karma to try and help other dogs who werent very social to come out of their shell as well. Karma is just so balanced and calm. That and if she meets a dog that is unsure of themselves, she completely submits and actually will bring them out. Its very obvious she gives the message, 'hey, I just want to play' 
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07-18-2008, 10:52 PM
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#4 (permalink)
| | Alpha
Posts: 753
Location: Rogers, Arkansas Dogs Name: Bane Titles: Bane the Brave Dogs Age: 9 months
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| socialization to me is to allow your puppy to meet as many new people and other dogs as possible. bane is still kinda leery(sp?) of people so im still working out my own problems lol. all i know is i take him everywhere with me and hes responded very well. this is my own preference though |
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07-19-2008, 05:44 AM
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#5 (permalink)
| | Big Dog | I always think that this is an interesting topic and something that gets talked about a lot in dog circles.
For my purposes, I don't let anyone touch my dogs as pups and then not usually until they're past 14-15 months or so. I don't let people feed my dogs except under specific circumstances (I'm out of town and a friend is babysitting). I don't ever, ever let my dog play with other dogs (I have in the past subscribed to the "one dog friend' theory, but I likely won't be going that route with the new puppy I have on the way).
What I need from my working dog is 100% focus on me. So, what I'm trying to build is a dog that is both human and dog neutral. Neutrality isn't being anti-social, it's being pleasant but aloof. I want him at the point where no matter how many dogs and people are around and no matter what fascinating things they're doing, he couldn't care less.
I accomplish this using a hundred different techniques. A few of which, beginning from the moment the new pup arrives, will be things like asking people to stand around talking to me without paying any attention to the puppy. When he looks at me, I give him a reward (food at first, toy later). I sit on my tailgate in a loud, crowded place (I love going to A's games and paying the parking fee just to sit with my dog and let him absorb the chaos), when he looks at me he gets a reward. The exact same method works for training neutrality with other dogs. However, that has to be done with someone else's fully controlled, dog-neutral dog. I let my puppy sniff the dog at the end of the leash and since this adult pays zero attention to him, the moment he looks back at me, he gets a reward. And on and on it goes. What I'm creating is a dog that's confident and sure of himself in new and strange places. He's learned that people and other dogs are just fine and aren't things to be worried about (unless I tell him to worry about them). But he's also learned they aren't a source of affection, food or entertainment of any kind -- that nothing in the world is more fabulous than me. Then, when I start taking my dog to trials I won't have to try, often in vain, to get him focused on the work that he's there to do.
You can't overestimate the power of distractions. Dogs who are socialized in the more common manner tend to really put it to their owners in public places and most of those people will tell you "but he's so good at home!". You'll hear things like "his recall is great, unless an animal runs by and then...". Building an immunity to those types of distractions give the dog peace of mind. It tends to mitigate the stress and anxiety that envelopes the dog in those situations.
Besides the working applications, I have found that those methods make very well liked pets. My dogs know that my friends are not their friends so when I have a party I don't have to crate my dog or even send him to his place -- he can be out and about with the crowd. He doesn't jump up on people or children, he doesn't beg for food or attention or make a general pest out of himself. Best of all, I've done that without EVER having to correct him. He's simply learned through experience that people are totally fine but utterly blah so why should he bother to get up off the couch, even during a BBQ with 50 people running around.
Of course there are always special circumstances (like shy or thin-nerved pups) that require finessing. But generally, I've always found that philosophy to be the best one.
Last edited by White Cleats; 07-19-2008 at 05:47 AM..
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07-20-2008, 09:40 AM
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#6 (permalink)
| | Big Pup
Posts: 39
Dogs Name: Evita, Bruno, Arco, & Caleb Titles: Evita - VPG3, FH, AD, Ztp; Bruno - BH; Arco - BH; Caleb - WIP
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| Quote:
Originally Posted by markg This is an interesting subject and I am sure there are many many ideas. What I try and do with puppies is to socialize them with dogs and people. In saying that my idea of socializing with people is letting the pup visit and get a pat on the head. I don't want people playing with my pup, that is solely for me and my pup. This works the same for soicializing with other dogs, I don't really want the pup to play for hours with other dogs, just enough for them to realize other dogs are OK but "MY" games are way more fun than that other dog or those other people. In short I want my dog to choose to work/play with me over all others, be he must be good with people and dogs.
Obviously if I have a young dog showing agression or avoidance to people or dogs then I will change the amount of visiting/playing to try and fix this problem.
My goal with my dogs is high level competition.
Just my thoughts,,,,works for me :-) | Mach,
Good theory but those of us that know you & your dogs know your dogs don't like playing with you 
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