Matt this is for you.
In protection, you teach your dog that the MOST important thing in the world to it - is the tug-->sleeve-->bite suit, etc. Not a kinda important thing, not somewhat important. The MOST important. When my dog sees a tug, sleeve, bitesuit, I want him to lose his mind and all he can think about is "I NEED THAT NOW!!". In fact if I do my job right, and I train a correct word association, my dog will not need to see a sleeve or bitesuit. With a simple command from he, he will turn on for whatever I tell him (look up bart bellon's dog that does a blind search with no one on the blind).
If you build a dog to this level, do you honestly think, if you walk up and ask it ever so nicely, to out, that it will instantly release the thing it has worked so hard to get?
It has been proven (I think it was auburn??) that in dogs bred a certain way, when they are biting something, the brain releases seratonin. The feelings of satiation flood the body. To to the dog the ability to hang on to the bite is the ultimate reward (in dogs bred a certain way).
So asking it "nicely" doesn't work.
A tried and true method we use in ring is the two tug method. the dog is biting tug one, and you place tug two right in front of the dog, ask for the out and reward with play when the dog transfers. We do the same thing on the suit/sleeve. Initially the reward tug is shown to the dog right in front of its eyes on the suit/sleeve and rewarded with play when it transfers.
If you build a dog in balance (ie you build its drive for the bite and its obedience to the handler in tandem) you have a beautiful working dog, that loves to bite and is obedient. However even this balanced dog will need reminders, corrections/complusion along the way to remind him of the balance of bitework.
However there are many times dogs are built too high for the bite without balance. And there are many reasons why a person would do this, some good intentioned and some not so good intentioned, some on purpose and some not.
KNVP dogs in particular, get standing ovations when they do not out.
As well in bitework, you want to desensitize the dog to distractions but also to "objection" from the decoy. If you have a personal protection dog, and the bad guy yells, or hits the dog, and they let go and run away:
a) you are left to defend yourself
b) your dog could be potentially wrecked for life because it will believe it can't win - the dog always need to have an unshakable belief that they WILL beat whatever they come up against.
So in training you will get rough, you will yell, you will show the dog that things may get dicey but if they work thru it they win. In ring we actually train the dog that these things "ie stick hits" are what triggers the BIG win, so when a dog recieved a stick hit, it actually powers up because it knows that leads to ultimate satiation.
However showing the dog roughness, in an effort to ensure the dog never walks into a situation blind, it also desensitizes the dog to corrections. That added to the jacked up mental state of a dog doing bitework, usually means that the dog will need an increased correction to even feel it. It is an adrenelin rush for the dog.
I will say one thing about choking off a bite. I do it, I do it with young puppies, and sometimes with adult dogs lacking drive. And by "choking" I mean I hold it off its feet by a flat collar until it drops the object. Feet about an inch off the ground. Usually takes about 1-2 seconds, with a stubborn puppy maybe 3. WHY? Because amazingly enough this builds drive. Have you ever had someone hold you back from something you wanted? Someone holding you back makes you want that thing soooo much more. As soon as the puppy drops the toy they are IMMEDIATELY reengaged. When the puppy has a solid grasp of the "game" of tug work, maybe even sleeve work, then we teach them the two tug method, or guards with rebites. The dogs I have developed this way in my club are very balanced, solid workers with no issues with outs. However the choking out is never given a name, the two tug method gives the "out" command.
I used the same method with my adult dog to build drive for a reward tug in the presence of a decoy.
It is very easy for a person to "build" a monster, especially one that doesn't know any better. A dog that will withstand ANY correction with ANY device to bite. VERY VERY easy. I know because I have one, and I made him what he is - when I didn't know any better.
A good working dog has balance. A strong desire for the decoy and a strong desire to listen to the handler. If a dog is too worried about his handler, he will not be a good working dog either. First you build drive, then you add obedience.
One last note: I believe Sweden and Denmark have dobermann's in their military.